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Powering my amps?


bvdhvy

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I will be revamping my sound system and have questions on how to power the amps. The set up will be an 04 vlx. Thanks for any help?

1 Exile Harpoon 2 channel powering 4 tower speakers

Power: (continueous) 300W x 2 (4 ohm)500W x 2 (2 ohm)

1 Alpine PDX-5M 5 channel powering 4 in boat speakers (won't be using the sub channel at all)<p>RMS Power Ratings

  • Per channel into 4 Ohms: (@ 14.4V Ƈ%THD+N, 20Hz - 20kHz @ 4I? for 4ch.) 75W x 4
  • Per channel into 2 Ohms: (@ 14.4V Ƈ%THD+N, 20Hz - 200Hz @ 2I? for Mono ch.) 300W x 1

1 Alpine PDX-1.600M powering 2 subs

RMS Power (at 14.4V THD+N, 20Hz - 200Hz)

  • Per channel into 4 ohms: 600W x 1 (0.08% THD)
  • Per channel into 2 ohms: 600W x 1

What i'm not sure of is what gauge power and ground wire to use?

where and what size and kind fuses to use?

Which distribution block or blocks to use?

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Fusing is intended to be just inches away from the battery or battery switch. The primary function is to protect the boat and occupants in case of a boating accident.

Redundant fusing at the amplifiers is not necessary unless you do not feel comfortable with the protection circuits of the amplifiers. It's normal to have a step down fuse when stepping down wire gauge but this would apply to much longer exposed runs after the wire step down.

If all of the amIifiers are collected on the same side as the batteries, making a short run, then I would like to see a 1-gauge for the primary and 4-gauge after the distribution blocks.

The distribution blocks should be as close to the amplifiers as possible.

David

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Also, the primary fuse should not exceed the collective or recommended amplifier fusing. If only certain sizes are avialable, then going a little over will not create a real risk, and going a little under will not trip prematurely.

David

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Going the easy way, which typically comes out on the conservative side. Those amps have a combined potential draw of 220A. On average, you would need see more then 50% of that, but lest just say we could see spikes of 75%. With the proximity of the batteries to the amps, I would go with 1/0ga cabling from the battery to the amp wall with a 150A circuit breaker (just my preference). At the amp wall, I would use a pair of 1 x 1/0ga in/4 x 4ga out non-fused distribution blocks for the B+ and GND. Then run 4ga from the blocks to each amp. The non-fused block can be used on the B+ leg because each amp has its own internal fusing. No redundant fusing is needed.

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I did not fuse my main wire to my fused distribution block. It is about 18 inches long. It doesn't make a whole lot of sense to put another fuse in the middle of that 1/0 wire to protect the 9 inches between the distribution block and the fuse. And then have another 9 inches of unprotected wire. If my batteries were farther from the distribution blocks, then I would consider it.

The owner's manual for the amps probably has a stated fuse size in it. If not, then a rough value is to add the sum total of the internal fuses on your amp, and use that size for the distribution block.

I do like distribution blocks from knukonceptz.com or I am sure that you could find some at other places (cough, cough, earmark marine, cough).

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I did not fuse my main wire to my fused distribution block. It is about 18 inches long. It doesn't make a whole lot of sense to put another fuse in the middle of that 1/0 wire to protect the 9 inches between the distribution block and the fuse. And then have another 9 inches of unprotected wire. If my batteries were farther from the distribution blocks, then I would consider it.

ABYC standards..... to which most manufacturers set their specs to, say the fuse should be no further than 7" from the power source unless you have additional protections in place:

ABYC Mounting placement dimensions for a fuse or circuit breaker (7"/40"/72" ABYC rule): 7 inch maximum if the conductor is not housed in a sheath or enclosure in addition to the wire insulation, 40 inch maximum if the conductor is housed in a sheath or enclosure in addition to the wire insulation, 72 inch maximum if the conductor is connected directly to the battery and housed in a sheath or enclosure in addition to the wire insulation.

I saw a boat catch fire and burn to the water line due to a shoddy stereo install in 2009. I have my fuses within 3-4" of the Battery terminals.

I was in my buddy's truck when I was 16 and it caught fire due to the hack job he did running a power line thru a firewall from the battery without a fuse to his amp. It grounded out where he drilled thru the fire wall, and immediately a 15ft run of 2ga went bright red and everything it touched caught fire.

so with these 2 events I witnessed first hand....fusing is now a big part of my life :)

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Thanks to all for the input!

If I get a distribution block with 2 inputs does that mean I have to use both to get power to all the outputs?

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ABYC standards..... to which most manufacturers set their specs to, say the fuse should be no further than 7" from the power source unless you have additional protections in place:

ABYC Mounting placement dimensions for a fuse or circuit breaker (7"/40"/72" ABYC rule): 7 inch maximum if the conductor is not housed in a sheath or enclosure in addition to the wire insulation, 40 inch maximum if the conductor is housed in a sheath or enclosure in addition to the wire insulation, 72 inch maximum if the conductor is connected directly to the battery and housed in a sheath or enclosure in addition to the wire insulation.

I saw a boat catch fire and burn to the water line due to a shoddy stereo install in 2009. I have my fuses within 3-4" of the Battery terminals.

I was in my buddy's truck when I was 16 and it caught fire due to the hack job he did running a power line thru a firewall from the battery without a fuse to his amp. It grounded out where he drilled thru the fire wall, and immediately a 15ft run of 2ga went bright red and everything it touched caught fire.

so with these 2 events I witnessed first hand....fusing is now a big part of my life :)

There is the official safe answer. So I am about 11 inches out of code. In my case, the wire is nicely protected, but it does at least make sense to give an added level of security to cover it, although I suspect that the covering I am thinking of is not beefy enough to meet their standards, but every little bit helps. Thanks for having that information.

Thanks to all for the input!

If I get a distribution block with 2 inputs does that mean I have to use both to get power to all the outputs?

No, you can use just one input and it usually goes to all the outputs. But most of those with 2 inputs are ground distribution blocks, not power. So they are not fused. I was thinking you ought to get a fused distribution block for power and an unfused for ground.

Edited by TallRedRider
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Going the easy way, which typically comes out on the conservative side. Those amps have a combined potential draw of 220A. On average, you would need see more then 50% of that, but lest just say we could see spikes of 75%. With the proximity of the batteries to the amps, I would go with 1/0ga cabling from the battery to the amp wall with a 150A circuit breaker (just my preference). At the amp wall, I would use a pair of 1 x 1/0ga in/4 x 4ga out non-fused distribution blocks for the B+ and GND. Then run 4ga from the blocks to each amp. The non-fused block can be used on the B+ leg because each amp has its own internal fusing. No redundant fusing is needed.

this looks like a very reasonable solution.

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