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How do you position/attach fenders?


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I tie off 3 on whatever side I'm parked against.

One on the foward and rear cleats. One dropping down from / off the tower.

IMG_0122.jpg

Edited by Pistol Pete
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One new method I just learned at the ski club is to use a special mooring bungy cord (see below link) that has a loop for the ski pylon and another loop that goes around the dock cleat, AND which has a little fender cipped to the dock loop. It is a slick idea IMO (small, easy, fast, cheap).

You can also use one on the transom (whereever works best) for extra stay power (if you're not present for a little while) and they come in different lengths.

http://www.wholesalemarine.com/p/K-T-AHDL-4/Kwik+Tek++Airhead+Bungee+Dock+Lines.html

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http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=2737

Paul from Bakes set me up with these bad boys. I absolutly love them. Inflate and deflate super easy (i dont use a pump) take up no space at all to store and are cheap!. Throw 3 of those things per side and never worry about your boat. I have been tied up to docks and boats in crazy choppy water and never ding.

I also use the ronix stretch tie lines.

I had to leave my boat tied to a dock on a lake that can get really windy for a week due to a broken trailer. Since it was 4 hours away, i had no way to check on it. I was a bit nervous about the balls sliding out and/or deflating. Came back a week later and everything was perfect.

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One new method I just learned at the ski club is to use a special mooring bungy cord (see below link) that has a loop for the ski pylon and another loop that goes around the dock cleat, AND which has a little fender cipped to the dock loop. It is a slick idea IMO (small, easy, fast, cheap).

You can also use one on the transom (whereever works best) for extra stay power (if you're not present for a little while) and they come in different lengths.

http://www.wholesale...Dock Lines.html

This method works well if you have a direct drive, but not as well with a v-drive.

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I have the extra large Taylor bumpers that are like 24" long x 12" in diameter & a pair of Hippity Hops. I hang one from the front tower leg, and the other from the pylon.

Also picked up a pair of the Exile bumpers at the TMC event at Banks. Thanks Exile!

We use the cleats for the dock ties/lines. Hanging bumpers from the cleats makes them hang at weird angles or too low to do much good (my cleats are lower than Pete's shown above).

BTW, this style of dock tie is WAY better quality than the ones listed previously in this thread.

dock_tie_2_5.jpg

Edited by Bill_AirJunky
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http://www.bakesonli...il.aspx?ID=2737

Paul from Bakes set me up with these bad boys. I absolutly love them. Inflate and deflate super easy (i dont use a pump) take up no space at all to store and are cheap!. Throw 3 of those things per side and never worry about your boat. I have been tied up to docks and boats in crazy choppy water and never ding.

I also use the ronix stretch tie lines.

I had to leave my boat tied to a dock on a lake that can get really windy for a week due to a broken trailer. Since it was 4 hours away, i had no way to check on it. I was a bit nervous about the balls sliding out and/or deflating. Came back a week later and everything was perfect.

This reminds me of the "bouncing balls" that I've used for year...except it has an endorsement now.

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I have the extra large Taylor bumpers that are like 24" long x 12" in diameter & a pair of Hippity Hops. I hang one from the front tower leg, and the other from the pylon.

Also picked up a pair of the Exile bumpers at the TMC event at Banks. Thanks Exile!

We use the cleats for the dock ties/lines. Hanging bumpers from the cleats makes them hang at weird angles or too low to do much good (my cleats are lower than Pete's shown above).

BTW, this style of dock tie is WAY better quality than the ones listed previously in this thread.

Great point Bill, not sure why Malibu has not changed that design...

dock_tie_2_5.jpg

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BTW, this style of dock tie is WAY better quality than the ones listed previously in this thread.

That Ronix one looks nice, but seems to sell for $24 each pretty much everywhere. $100 for a set of dock ties is a bit pricey. Are these really that much better over the cheaper ones posted above?

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That Ronix one looks nice, but seems to sell for $24 each pretty much everywhere. $100 for a set of dock ties is a bit pricey. Are these really that much better over the cheaper ones posted above?

The built-in stainless steel (?) clip for a fender on the Ronex one is a real nice feature

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I have a set of the 4 ronix ties. They are great. I did however snap one on a pretty choppy day during a tieup. A small 18' larson tied up next to me in a big tieup and was on the outside. They were getting pretty thrashed around since their boat was so small...

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Is that a golf head cover on the ski pylon? Great idea!

Is that Oroville?

Yes, that's "Chum". And, I made a super simple cup holder out of cut pieces of PVC pipe.

IMG_0181.jpg

And, yes, Oroville at a floating campsite.

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That Ronix one looks nice, but seems to sell for $24 each pretty much everywhere. $100 for a set of dock ties is a bit pricey. Are these really that much better over the cheaper ones posted above?

I have 2 of them that I bought about 6 yrs ago. The outer sheath on one of them came apart this summer finally.... it melted on something (maybe in the engine compartment? But it still holds the boat without a problem though. I replaced it anyway with one I picked up on Ebay for $20 shipped.

The other style has a hog ring at each end where the rubber loops around. The rubber core pulls off that hog ring the first time you get a good yank on it, then it completely fails & lets loose. Seems like I see this happen to guys at least once a year.

Edited by Bill_AirJunky
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I happen to have a full set of 3 Ronix brand dock ties that are the exact same style as Bill mentions.

Yes, these are great ties. Mine are only slightly used. Two are of a shorter length and one is a long length. I'll have to measure them since it looks like Ronix no longer sells different lengths.

I replaced the original stainless biners with my own but, still have the original stainless. I didn't like the stainless because the gate on the original biners had a tendency to catch on things so, I put biners on that had a full, smooth, finish. (rock climber terminology)

EDIT: these ties are sold pending payment.

IMG_1478.jpg

Edited by Pistol Pete
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I would prefer to have the rear fender behind the fuel fill but there is no easy attachment point there.

Just curious, but why so? Do you simply prefer the rear fender farther aft and you're only using the fuel cap as a reference, or is there a fuel issue that I am unaware of?

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No fuel issue, just better protection when you are leaving the dock. Further back you can just push the bow out when leaving without worrying about bumping the stern on the dock.

A better topic for this thread may be what is the best size fender for my boat. The first thing I bought when I got the boat were large fenders. I can't believe how many really nice boats I see that have really small fenders as well as mooring lines that are either falling apart, tied together, or way too small. For $100 a $200 you can have a great fender / line setup, one tank of fuel will cost you more than that.

Went out with a neighbor last summer with a really nice boat that he was obsessed with keeping it clean with rules about food, drinks boarding from the dock etc. After we launched he tied it to the dock with old ski ropes with knots in them and fenders that couldn't have been more than 4". The next time I went out with him I brought new fenders and lines for him instead of gas money.

For a 21 - 23 foot boat I would go with at least an 8" diameter fender and 1/2 inch mooring lines. The fenders aren't that hard to store in the rear compartment.

Here the fenders I use.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=85092&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50304&subdeptNum=50340&classNum=50341

I like the ones where the line goes through the center on the fender. Just use a large stainless washer on the bottom of the fender line right above the knot.

Edited by BSUBU_Kris
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