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Another winterizing question...


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ok... not looking for an antifreeze vs non debate... but more of a technical question.

If I drain the block and then run antifreeze through the system... or for that matter... just run water through the system again in the spring (for the non-antifreeze crowd). How does the circulating side of the system get its water? How does it initially get past the thermostat? Tstat is opened by circulating water getting above 160 right?

My basic question is... If I let the raw water pump start sucking antifreeze after I drain the system... does the antifreeze go right into the circulating system (instead of just getting bypassed)... or does something have to hit 160 again?

Thanks in advance.

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I think you are asking this (sorry if you are not)

Does the thermostat need hot water to open?

If no hot water, how does it open?

I would say the engine block will heat to 160, the thermostat sitting on the block will reach 160 and open. Then the engine will fill with water which will remain in the block until drained at winterization.

So to answer your last question, you would need to get the engine up to 160 or more before adding the antifreeze.

Does that sound reasonable?

Edited by Bozboat
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If the block is empty of water, when you first start it up (lake or hose) the water will go through the impellor, and through the Stat hosuing and into the water circulating pump. From there it will fill the block. Once the block gets to temp, and the Stat opens, then the water will continue to flow through the block and out the exhaust. Remember, the water path is from the bottom to the top, so the Stat is the last thing to see water. This picture is of a BB Mercruiser Chevy, but they all flow the same.

http://www.justanswer.com/boat/3mwtw-bought-chris-craft-262-amero-sport-1988-1989-mercruiser.html

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If the block is empty of water, when you first start it up (lake or hose) the water will go through the impellor, and through the Stat hosuing and into the water circulating pump. From there it will fill the block. Once the block gets to temp, and the Stat opens, then the water will continue to flow through the block and out the exhaust. Remember, the water path is from the bottom to the top, so the Stat is the last thing to see water. This picture is of a BB Mercruiser Chevy, but they all flow the same.

http://www.justanswe...mercruiser.html

Thanks... nice diagram.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have a scenario to run by you. My boat is still in the water, we are moving to Texas and next week they are picking up the boat, shipping co. window is 11/25-11/30. It is going down below freezing the next couple of nights. Obviously I want to protect my boat. However don't want to completely winterize it as it will be not be freezing in a couple of days where it's going to land. Someone said leaving it in the water through the couple of days would be better. The temps will be 50's for highs and 26 for lows just for 2 days before it's above freezing at night. Any thoughts?

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From post above. Could I put a space heater to warm it through the couple of nights?

It takes 3 minutes to get the water out of the engine - is 3 minutes of your time worth more than a $4,500 block re build?

I just can't imagine why you would risk it and why you are looking for shortcuts for a 3 minute "fool proof" solution.

If you don't know how - i'd be happy to tell you how to do it. It is pretty easy. 26 degrees is nothing to mess with

Edited by Murphy8166
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Draining the water takes about 10 minuets and could save youabout 5 grand. I would shut off the raw water valve and drain the block. Not a complete winterization but a very nice piece of mind.

A space heater could work but could also cause issues. Power failure, fire just to name the top two.

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My 1st inboard. Not looking for short cuts. Just want to do the right thing. I don't even know how to drain block. It didn't get as cold as I thought. Also pulled the boat out of the water, put lamp under shroud and covered it. Checked this am and all is fine.

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It takes 3 minutes to get the water out of the engine - is 3 minutes of your time worth more than a $4,500 block re build?

I just can't imagine why you would risk it and why you are looking for shortcuts for a 3 minute "fool proof" solution.

If you don't know how - i'd be happy to tell you how to do it. It is pretty easy. 26 degrees is nothing to mess with

See you're in Dallas. I'm moving to SanAntonio. Yes I would like to know how to drain block. Any help would be appreciated!
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i'm working w a 320lcr 5.7L direct drive. (Q: is it worth building a "how to drain" document that addresses all engines?)

  1. pull the t-handle hull drain plug
  2. pull the port and starboard block drains (one of these may be a knock sensor). after the water stops draining chase the holes with a wire to insure that scale has not built up within the block which may trap more water.
  3. disconnect the hose that connects the aft exhaust manifold drains. it's a fitting on a hose to the rear of each exhaust manifold
  4. disconnect the bottom of the large (2"?) "J" shaped hose on the front top starboard of the engine from the circulating pump.
  5. Q: did i miss any??? without looking at the boat i'm only 99% sure that the 4 bullets are complete.
  6. Q: anything need to be addressed additionally/differently on a vdrive?

optional:

  1. heater? disconnect and drain (blow into the hose feeding the top of the core). you may wish to add sierra (perhaps vacuum it into the core)
  2. shower? disconnect both the hot and cold water source. run the pump to purge the water from the lines and pump. DON'T use rv antifreeze in the shower pump. i believe it caused premature failure of two of my pumps (degraded diaphram). you can use the shower pump to suck sierra into the shower system.
  3. heater and shower? consider placing quick connect hose fittings on all four lines. with a little bit of planning you can bypass the heater should the core begin to leak. additionally with a little prior planning you can:

  • spin off the shower head and connect it to one of the heater supply lines
  • turn off one of the shower supply lines, stick the other supply line into a jug of sierra
  • then use the shower to fill the heater core with sierra

Edited by tvano
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See you're in Dallas. I'm moving to SanAntonio. Yes I would like to know how to drain block. Any help would be appreciated!

I live in San Antonio. Happy to help you out if you still need some guidance when you get here. Just let me know.

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i'm working w a 320lcr 5.7L direct drive. (Q: is it worth building a "how to drain" document that addresses all engines?)

  1. pull the t-handle hull drain plug
  2. pull the port and starboard block drains (one of these may be a knock sensor). after the water stops draining chase the holes with a wire to insure that scale has not built up within the block which may trap more water.
  3. disconnect the hose that connects the aft exhaust manifold drains. it's a fitting on a hose to the rear of each exhaust manifold
  4. disconnect the bottom of the large (2"?) "J" shaped hose on the front top starboard of the engine from the circulating pump.
  5. Q: did i miss any??? without looking at the boat i'm only 99% sure that the 4 bullets are complete.
  6. Q: anything need to be addressed additionally/differently on a vdrive?

optional:

  1. heater? disconnect and drain (blow into the hose feeding the top of the core). you may wish to add sierra (perhaps vacuum it into the core)
  2. shower? disconnect both the hot and cold water source. run the pump to purge the water from the lines and pump. DON'T use rv antifreeze in the shower pump. i believe it caused premature failure of two of my pumps (degraded diaphram). you can use the shower pump to suck sierra into the shower system.
  3. heater and shower? consider placing quick connect hose fittings on all four lines. with a little bit of planning you can bypass the heater should the core begin to leak. additionally with a little prior planning you can:

  • spin off the shower head and connect it to one of the heater supply lines
  • turn off one of the shower supply lines, stick the other supply line into a jug of sierra
  • then use the shower to fill the heater core with sierra

I also disconnect the hose coming from the raw water pump where it connects to the proximal side of the transmission cooler.

Then, instead of taking the back off the raw water pump and removing the impeller (I'll change impeller first thing next Spring),

I disconnect the hose coming into the raw water pump so that I can blow any remaining water back out the through-hull intake.

I have a water-cooled shaft seal, and I also disconnect that clear tubing at its proximal end so I can blow water out of the low

spots.

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  • 5 weeks later...

If your cooling system is "open loop" (not fresh water cooled) all you need to do is drain the block, manifolds and hardwall hoses. Antifrreze is overkill. The only real thing antifreeze accomplishes is slowing the corrosion. If you use your boat only in fresh water your cooling system will last a very long time. By the way....you don't have to get every last once of water out of the block to prevent freezing damage. As water freezes it expands and needs more room than available in the cooling passages. If you've drained 90% of it out there's room for what little is left to expand if it does freeze. If you are still concerned after draining.....run an extension cord out to the boat and plug in a 100 Watt light bulb and socket and hang in the engine bay for those freeze warning nights. If your cooling system is a "closed loop" system and the block holds antifreeze contsantly.....guess what.....you still have to drain the heat exchanger and exhaust manifolds.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Exactly boz. Let me know if you need help blagrata.

Steve B.

I think you are asking this (sorry if you are not)

Does the thermostat need hot water to open?

If no hot water, how does it open?

I would say the engine block will heat to 160, the thermostat sitting on the block will reach 160 and open. Then the engine will fill with water which will remain in the block until drained at winterization.

So to answer your last question, you would need to get the engine up to 160 or more before adding the antifreeze.

Does that sound reasonable?

So I discovered the answer to this question just by experimenting. The entire cooling system fills first after being drained. The thing sucked about 3.5 gallons of antifreeze in (measured after I collected the stuff that came out the exhaust). Engine didn't get anywhere near 160. Also.. in thinking about it... if the thermostat had to get to 160 degrees by some method (usually the circ water exceeding 160)... then if the block was dry and the whole block had to heat up to 160 I would think that the cyliders would be melted by then. There was a nice post by a guy in this thread too of a diagram that was way over my head.

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  • 1 month later...

Tvano. I am now in San Antonio. Took care of all the winterizing issues. We are heading out today for 1st Texas boating experience. I was told Lake Placid is one area I should check out. I'm a serious slalom skier. Any input? Looking to store boat near wherever I figure out is the place to go. Boats in Seguin now, I live in Leon Valley.

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