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Installing W711, need info on what other parts are needed and what to do.


wakesetter8796

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Hi, we are looking to install a W711 ourselves, or take all the parts to the dealer and have them do it. Anyway, what parts do I need? So far I only have the W711. I know we will be getting 3 SS thru hulls, 1 brass thru hull, and 2 1100 gph Aerator pumps(same as factory malibu). Won't do a reversible because it is $140 more! Also will be getting a dash switch. Shut off valve also. Do I need the On/Off thing to "activate" the dash switch, or would the acc next to the center MLS not need it? Sorry that was long. Anything else I am missing?

Again, here is what I have/am getting for sure.

W711

dash switch

2 1100 gph pumps

3 SS thru hull

1 brass thru hull

On/Off dash switch light activator thing?

Shut off valve

thanks for all the help

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You are missing a bunch of stuff:

- Wiring

- Hose clamps

- Multiple bag fittings

- Vented loop for your fill line

- Barbed fittings for the pumps

You are wrong about the pump being "$140 more" and wrong by a LOT.

With a reversible pump you will need a single vent line instead of two, saving you at minimum 1 SS fitting (not sure why you think you need 3 with an aerator setup). Also saves you a fitting on the bag as well, but you do need a check valve. Overall savings on vent/drain part: $5.

Two Attwood pumps = $80. One Johnson pump = $180. So there is only a $100 difference in pump prices. Don't need a vented loop for a reversible pump, another $28 saved. Going to need barbed fittings for those Aerator pumps, another $13 saved going with an impeller pump that doesn't need them. We will call it $11 saved since to compare equal prices we will use 3/4" hose (bad choice) which would need $2 in adapters for the impeller pumps.

Since you don't need the drain pump with an impeller setup, you don't need drain hose for it either or clamps for it. Clamps are pretty cheap if you get them at Lowes, so let's say $2 saved there. Good hose isn't so cheap, and you will be saving at least 6' of hose = $6.

All said and done, there is a $100 difference in pump costs. But with all of the other savings reversible pumps provide, the price difference is really $48. And that $48 buys you a much easier to install system that doesn't have priming issues, takes a lot less space up, easier to winterize, easier to troubleshoot, does a much better job draining bags and pumps just as fast (real world pumping, not rated crap). Money well spent.

If you go with 1" hose and quick disconnects (I suggest both) the price for each setup ends up being almost identical.

**All prices pulled from Wakemakers.**

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Wakesetter,

When I do a W711 bow sac, I typically set them up with 2 drain pumps. I have found that this yields a more complete drain over a single drain pump in one of the legs. I usualy go with an 800 GPH pump because its small, inexpensive and bulletproof. For the fill pump, I typically use an 1100 GPH. For an install like this, the parts list would be something like this.

1100 pump (some come with a straight and 90 elbow hose barb outlet, so no need to purchase additional)

.75 bronze mushroom

.75 ball-valve

(2) 800 pumps (some come with a straight and 90 elbow hose barb outlet, so no need to purchase additional)

(2) .75 thru-hull for drain/vent. You can go with stainless, chrome or glass reinforced nylon w/SS face like many OEMs use. 3 t-hulls if you want to give the vent a dedicated t-hull.

Barbed T so the vent line shares a t-hull with one of the drain

(1) W743

(1) W746

(1) W736

(1) W742

(15ft) .75 hose for the vent and drain lines

(15ft) 1.0 hose for the fill line

(1) SPDT switch switch w/actuator

(1) fuse holder

clamps

3M 5200

some 14ga wire

There may be a couple of additional fittings needed to connect the drain pumps to the sac, depending on where they will rest in relation to the sac. Some times we can come right of of the sac with the pump and other times, we need to make a 90 turn and orient the pump perpendicular to the sac. Sometimes, we use all quick-connects so the sac can easily be removed. A check-valve in the vent aids with draining, but is not a have-to. If you can route the fill line up and over the helm bulk-head so its higher then the sac when filled, a vented-loop may not be needed.

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Aerator pumps are a terrible idea. Go reversible and put a check valve on the overflow so the bag suctions shut. One pump, easy install, easy to replace the impeller if it fails. I mounted my pump in the passanger storage area.

I took the T-handle out of my center to save drilling the hole in hull below the waterline which made my install way easy (i dont have a vent line because my sac is on the seat (already had the bow ballast installed) and i just watch it fill.

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Wakesetter,

When I do a W711 bow sac, I typically set them up with 2 drain pumps

With two drain pumps, the setup will be more expensive and far more complicated than a reversible setup. Why bother? I can't see the advantage at all. Pumps, fittings, and wiring everywhere.

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With two drain pumps, the setup will be more expensive and far more complicated than a reversible setup. Why bother? I can't see the advantage at all. Pumps, fittings, and wiring everywhere.

Read the post. The advantage of dual aerator drain pumps over a single aerator drain pump, which is the system the OP inquired about, is spelled out. Its the part your left out of the quite.

More expensive: no, not necessarily. Ive done many duel drain aerator, single drain aerator and single reversible impeller pump system.

Far more complicated: More in depth, yes, complicated, no. A second drain pump mirrors a single. Both run together when the switch is activated.

IMO, the OP has a good setup in the work, so I see n need to push him to make a 180 degree turn. There are pros and cons to both aerator and impeller pump systems. most boats, but not all, can easily support both systems, so there's not a one size fits all ballast system. There's more then one way to do a ballast setup.

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Read the post. The advantage of dual aerator drain pumps over a single aerator drain pump, which is the system the OP inquired about, is spelled out. Its the part your left out of the quite.

But reversible pumps do a much better job draining the bag, as they actually suck it dry, which is why 2-3 pumps aren't needed.

And how is it not more expensive? The 3rd pump + additional fittings/lines required adds up to more money. I get that you can find aerator pumps cheaper than some of the popular retailers - but you can find impeller pumps cheaper as well. You also have to run wiring to 3 different pumps in 3 different areas vs a single wire to a single pump in one place.

I'm also questioning the fuse holder vs. wiring into the factory circuit breaker, which usually has a free breaker or two. Also, the suggestion of using the same thru-hull for venting/draining on an aerator is fine but a more expensive alternative, since you will need to buy a Y adapter, check valve, and 4 additional clamps.

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I'm a little lost here..... I thought you only need two aerators, 1 for fill and 1 for drain. Plus the Johnson reversible is $240, $140 more than the 2 aerators according to bakes.

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But reversible pumps do a much better job draining the bag, as they actually suck it dry, which is why 2-3 pumps aren't needed.

Im going to keep the focus on the W711 bow sac, since thats what the OP is installing. Yes, an impeller pump can suck a sac shut, when a $25.96 check-valve is placed in the vent line, and so can an aerator pump. But, with a single drain pump, regardless off the type, the W711 can draw down in the center section, which is often higher then ends of each leg, trapping water on the off-side leg. With dual drain pumps, this will not happen.

I'm also questioning the fuse holder vs. wiring into the factory circuit breaker, which usually has a free breaker or two

Well, if the boat has an unused breaker of proper amperage, then by all means, save the $1 on the fuse holder and terminate the switch to that breaker if its of a suitable amperage. But I would caution to anyone to wire a bilge pump that draws 6A to a 50A unused heated seat breaker. The purpose of the fuse holder is to make sure the new switch is properly protected. It would be perfectly acceptable to come off the helm BUSS with a fuse holder to power the switch.

Also, the suggestion of using the same thru-hull for venting/draining on an aerator is fine but a more expensive alternative, since you will need to buy a Y adapter, check valve, and 4 additional clamps

Again, not more expensive in all cases. The check-valve is a wash since you've stated already that a c/v is also needed with an impeller pump system. A simple barbed PVC T can be had for $2.50 and clamps are $.45 each. So again, sharing work fine, but nothing wrong with installing a dedicated vent t-hull.

Aerator pump systems have be done successfully many time over, by OEMs and aftermarkets alike. Since the OP is inquiring about adding a bow sac and using aerator pumps, that's what im trying to help with. I do not see any reason why he will not have a trouble free system if he continues on the current path. If he wants to consider using an impeller pump, great. Weight the pros and cons, compare the two system, make a decision. If his current plan was looking like it was not going to work for him, then I would suggest changing direction and going with an impeller pump setup.

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I'm a little lost here..... I thought you only need two aerators, 1 for fill and 1 for drain. Plus the Johnson reversible is $240, $140 more than the 2 aerators according to bakes.

Wakesetter,

I apologize for any confusion. You do NOT NEED 2 drain pumps. Its a method I have come to use as I have found it yields a more complete drain of the W711 bow sac. It was only an example of what I have found to work well.

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Ok, update. I think we will go with a Johnson Reversible pump for $180. So, what else do I need? I got the SS thru hulls and the brass one, and W711, and dash switch. How many clamps? How many check valves? How many shut off valves? I would mount the pump behind the sub, so how much hose? Do I need this? http://bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=1097 That's all I know of so far.

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Ok, update. I think we will go with a Johnson Reversible pump for $180. So, what else do I need? I got the SS thru hulls and the brass one, and W711, and dash switch. How many clamps? How many check valves? How many shut off valves? I would mount the pump behind the sub, so how much hose? Do I need this? http://bakesonline.c...il.aspx?ID=1097 That's all I know of so far.

What do you mean by "dash switch"? The link to Bakes is the correct DPDT switch that you need to run the pump, so not other switch is needed.

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Ok, so your helm has a switch position for the MLS bow ballast, but its unused on your boat. If that switch is a 7 pin DPDT, then you can use that switch. if not, then get the bakes switch and use you OEM MLS Front actuator on it.

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Plus the Johnson reversible is $240, $140 more than the 2 aerators according to bakes.

Just because you find one place selling Johnson pump for way more than everywhere else doesn't make it the price. Wakemakers has them everyday for $180 and you can find them cheaper than that. I think I bought my 3 in the $150ish range each this past spring.

Well, if the boat has an unused breaker of proper amperage, then by all means, save the $1 on the fuse holder and terminate the switch to that breaker if its of a suitable amperage. But I would caution to anyone to wire a bilge pump that draws 6A to a 50A unused heated seat breaker. The purpose of the fuse holder is to make sure the new switch is properly protected. It would be perfectly acceptable to come off the helm BUSS with a fuse holder to power the switch.

Bakes sells the breakers in different amperages. Though a fuse is fine, it isn't as nice as having a breaker. Let's say you get a piece of debris stuck in a pump (aerator or impeller) and you pop the fuse. Clean out the debris but unless you are rocking a spare fuse you are SOL on the water. With a breaker a push of a button you are back in business.

Again, not more expensive in all cases. The check-valve is a wash since you've stated already that a c/v is also needed with an impeller pump system. A simple barbed PVC T can be had for $2.50 and clamps are $.45 each. So again, sharing work fine, but nothing wrong with installing a dedicated vent t-hull.

I was talking about expensive going the 2 vs 3 route on an aerator setup. The check valve costs as much as a SS thru-hull then you have all the other parts to pay for.

Edited by Nitrousbird
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Ok, update. I think we will go with a Johnson Reversible pump for $180. So, what else do I need? I got the SS thru hulls and the brass one, and W711, and dash switch. How many clamps? How many check valves? How many shut off valves? I would mount the pump behind the sub, so how much hose? Do I need this? http://bakesonline.c...il.aspx?ID=1097 That's all I know of so far.

Here what a parts list might consist of:

1" bronze thru-hull mushroom

1" bronze ball-valve

1" MPT x 1"HB fitting

Pump

DPDT switch with actuator

20A Breaker or fuse holder if an open one of proper amperage is not available

20ft 1" coil-reinforced hose (length will depend on where you locate the thru-hull pickup)

1 W743 1" male sac valve fitting

1 W746 1" female quick-connect HB elbow (fill port)

1 W736 .75" male sac valve fitting

1 W742 .75" female quick-connect HB elbow (vent port)

1 .75" check-valve for the vent (optional, but it will add in a more complete draining of the sac)

1 .75" thru-hull vent (SS, Chrome or glass reinforced nylon, black or white nylon, doesn't matter as they all serve the same function so go with the one that best matches whats in the boat already)

8ft .75" coil reinforced hose for the vent

1 1oz tube of 3M 5200

10ft of 12ga primary wire for pump

4 .75" clamps

4 1" hose clamps

If the vent t-hull you have already is 1", then you will need more 1" hose and clamps, 2 W743 and 2 W746 fittings and a 1" check-valve as opposed to the .75" parts.

Others may envision ithe setup differently.

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