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How to hand crank a monsoon 5.7


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Hi guys,

This is probably a super easy/dumb question, but how do I hand crank my monsoon 340 (2008 vride)?

I am fogging the engine after the boat has already drained of water, impeller changed and oil changed.

I want to make sure I bring the right tools with me as boat is 2 hours away.

I know the spark plugs need to be removed, but in a car that usually isn't enough to truly turn the engine with ones hands. A breaker bar and socket is needed to turn a car engine usually right? Looking at my engine I don't' see a way to do this unless I remove the water pump, which would be a major pain on my vdrive with silent ride.

And pulling the lanyard disables my ignition and starter. So I guess another option is pull the distributor cap and disable the fuel system somehow, then turn the ignition and use the starter to crank the engine.

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The lanyard should not disable your starter....that should be all you need to do. With all the plugs out the engine should be really easy to turn but I still don't know if you can rotate the harmonic balancer by hand and without removing the water pump.

Edited by Ndawg12
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Yeah, pulling lanyard should not disable to starter but should disable the fuel pump.

I would pull all the plugs, for each cylinder, turn it over, re fog, turn it over and then put the plugs back. The goal is for the fooging oil to coat the cylinder walls...what you don't want is any pressure from the fogging oil building up when the spark plugs are in.

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pulling the lanyard and turning the key does nothing. You hear crickets.

edit: guess either my lanyard switch is wired up wrong or I am complete 'tard and had my perko switch to off. but 99% positive my gauges came on and then turning the key was complete silence.

Edited by augie09
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pulling the lanyard and turning the key does nothing. You hear crickets.

That's not right. Might want to look into that. In the mean time you can bump the engine over with one of these. I bought one to re-time my engine and it works well.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_x_9090007-P_x_x?cm_mmc=ACQ-_-Google-_-enhancedRM-_-9090007&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=9090007&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw={keyword}&gclid=CO79_timl7MCFQmmPAodIAsAnQ#utm_source=acq&utm_medium=google&utm_campaign=enhancedrm&utm_content=9090007

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On newer Bu's it's indeed not able to crank the engine when the kill-switch is activated.

(Ask me how I know ...) ;)

On my 2005 and on my 2006 it was possible though.

When I winterized a few weeks back I could turn the engine by hand with sparks removed.

(I used some rubberized gloves to have a good grip and was able to turn the alloy belt-wheel behind the water-pump assembly.)

To jump start the starter would be a good option too.

What you don't want is fuel to be injected into the cylinders after fogging them.

The fuel would wash away the fogging oil or at least dilute the oil on the cylinder walls.

So to just unhook the spark cables would be not an optimal solution.

IF you have to use your on-board electricity to crank the engine then I would prefer unplugging all 8 electrical connectors on top of the injectors.

The connectors are easy accessable and unplugging them would prevent the injectors from opening.

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When I winterized a few weeks back I could turn the engine by hand with sparks removed.

(I used some rubberized gloves to have a good grip and was able to turn the alloy belt-wheel behind the water-pump assembly.)

This is what I am hoping I can do, just wanted to be prepared should the wheel not budge. Think I am well armed with some alternatives now. Thanks all!!!

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Interesting point about the fuel. I've never looked, but is there a fuse on the fuel pump?

Definitely - But that won't help at all.

The fuel line will still be under pressure and the injectors will shoot fuel into the cylinders even with a disconnected fuel pump.

(At least for a few turns.)

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On newer Bu's it's indeed not able to crank the engine when the kill-switch is activated.

(Ask me how I know ...) ;)

On my 2005 and on my 2006 it was possible though.

When I winterized a few weeks back I could turn the engine by hand with sparks removed.

(I used some rubberized gloves to have a good grip and was able to turn the alloy belt-wheel behind the water-pump assembly.)

To jump start the starter would be a good option too.

What you don't want is fuel to be injected into the cylinders after fogging them.

The fuel would wash away the fogging oil or at least dilute the oil on the cylinder walls.

So to just unhook the spark cables would be not an optimal solution.

IF you have to use your on-board electricity to crank the engine then I would prefer unplugging all 8 electrical connectors on top of the injectors.

The connectors are easy accessable and unplugging them would prevent the injectors from opening.

???

Wonder what the point of that change was...?

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Definitely - But that won't help at all.

The fuel line will still be under pressure and the injectors will shoot fuel into the cylinders even with a disconnected fuel pump.

(At least for a few turns.)

There should be a pressure tap where you could purge the pressure on the feed line. I guess starting to get into a lot of extras compared to muscling the engine over using the belts.

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???

Wonder what the point of that change was...?

I think it was when malibu changed from the pin-style to the toggle-style kill switch.

On early boats there has been a red plastic pin that was compressed when the lanyard was "on". (The button hold down style lanyard.)

On newer boats there is a toggle switch in a housing where the lanyard "hooks" onto the toggle.

31xH%2BiFDehL._SL500_SS500_.jpg

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Definitely - But that won't help at all.

The fuel line will still be under pressure and the injectors will shoot fuel into the cylinders even with a disconnected fuel pump.

(At least for a few turns.)

the schematic for my boat shows that the power to the injectors is lost when the safety kill switch is open.

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I think it was when malibu changed from the pin-style to the toggle-style kill switch.

On early boats there has been a red plastic pin that was compressed when the lanyard was "on". (The button hold down style lanyard.)

On newer boats there is a toggle switch in a housing where the lanyard "hooks" onto the toggle.

31xH%2BiFDehL._SL500_SS500_.jpg

Yep, that's what I have. Toggle switch.

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