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New XM9 install!


wakesetter8796

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Tonight we ordered a pair of xm9's, harpoon amp, and a bazooka PA system. Thanks Earmark!!!

We will be taking the old alpha 1's off, how hard will that be. Also, the sub is on a punch 500.2, and the interior speakers are on the HU. Would it be hard to move them to the 400.2 (used by old tower speakers)?

Looking forward to hearing after install. What would the total time be, and how hard is it to do the above things and install xm9's and harpoon?

Thanks for all the help, much obliged, rookie stereo installer here!

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Take the speaker out of the alpha and its just 2 bolts very easy. Don't loose the wires in the tower. To add the amp is easy but it all is very time consuming. XM9s are even easer you just bolt the base and slide the speaker housing on. I would rewire all but thats just me you will have to anyway for the extra amp. For the tower wiring just connect to the old and pull through. Also I know you have a P3 sub you should check and see if you can run it at 1 ohm if you aren't already. The 500.2 can run bridged at 500 RMS at 1 Ohm. As far as time this is one of them things you get what you put into it. The more time the better it looks. Are you running one battery or two. I would say at least you will need 2 for 3 amps many will say more. With that said what about a relay and a charger. Don't worry I just like spending your money.LOL Just a few extra things to think about. I did all this last year so hit me up if you need any pics or anything. Good info for wiring.

http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm

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The R/F Punch 500.2 that im familiar with delivers 500 x 1 @ 4 Ohm and is only 2 ohm x 2 stable, so no bridging with any load lower them 4 ohm. The 500.1 mono amp is stable @ 1 ohm.

If your boat currently has 4 in-boats, then yes, it will be a simple job to relocate them from the head-unit to the no unused 400.2. You will needs to wire the port side bow and main cabin speakers in parallel (+ to +/- to -) and connect to amp chnl 1. Do the same for the starboard pair and wire to chnl 2. make sure the amp cross-over filter is set to Hi-Pass and set the frequency to between 80-100. There may be enough cable to snake the speaker leads out of the harness behind the head-unit and take them to the amp without extending them.

Your tower should be pre-wired with 14ga. Thats plenty sufficient for a pair of tower speakers, so no need to rewire unless you felt the condition of the wire insulation has degraded.

As far as installing the amp. If you factory setup has a trunk line and distribution blocks with a vacant port, it may be as simple as mounting the amp, running a piece of 4ga from each block to the amp and daisy-chaining the turn-on circuit, then up-sizing the main circuit protection. Or, you may need to run a dedicated power and ground for the new amp, with its own circuit protection. Not quite enough info to say exactly how I would do it.

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Other amp is on my speaker box. It is a little cleaner now. Why don't you just change out the sub amp for the Harpoon amp and add the sub amp on the side of the sub box. You have a big ground and a big power wire on that side already and you loss less power getting to you speaker that way. Just my 2 cents

IMG_0485.jpg

IMG_0466.jpg

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Just my $02 and not trying to rain on anyones parade, but I would recommend against terminating an amp's B+ and GND cables to a BUSS bar under the helm or anywhere else. The GND needs to go directly to the battery and the B+ needs to either terminate at the battery or the C post of the dual battery switch, depending on the system design. Reason is both for noise prevention and adequate current flow.

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Just my $02 and not trying to rain on anyones parade, but I would recommend against terminating an amp's B+ and GND cables to a BUSS bar under the helm or anywhere else. The GND needs to go directly to the battery and the B+ needs to either terminate at the battery or the C post of the dual battery switch, depending on the system design. Reason is both for noise prevention and adequate current flow.

I would trust you over me any day I am just one of them rookies. LOL

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Just my $02 and not trying to rain on anyones parade, but I would recommend against terminating an amp's B+ and GND cables to a BUSS bar under the helm or anywhere else. The GND needs to go directly to the battery and the B+ needs to either terminate at the battery or the C post of the dual battery switch, depending on the system design. Reason is both for noise prevention and adequate current flow.

I have no clue what those mean unfortunately. Maybe my dad does.

Bradley, we decided to keep the sub how it is, no box.

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I have no clue what those mean unfortunately. Maybe my dad does.

Bradley, we decided to keep the sub how it is, no box.

B+ = Battery Positive

GND = Ground

C Post is the Common post of the battery switch where all loads connect.

A BUSS-Bar is a metal strip thats used as a means to allow a number of smaller GND connections or B+ connections to connect to cleanly. Each strip would be connected to the battery via larger cable. Some B+ BUSS bars are fused. BUSS bars are great for connecting accessories such as ballast pumps, LEDs, ACC sockets, etc, but not ideal for stereo amps or even head-units or peripherals like EQ's or your Bazooka PA.

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Stuff came in today!

At first when I turned one of the xm'9s upside down, sounded like 2 screws where inside loose and fell, same when I turned it right side up. But the sound went away.... They look awesome!

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  • 1 month later...

Stuff came in today!

At first when I turned one of the xm'9s upside down, sounded like 2 screws where inside loose and fell, same when I turned it right side up. But the sound went away.... They look awesome!

Stuck to the magnet?

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