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Who uses the anti-freeze method when winterizing?

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Probably going to winterize in a week or two and I found this video posted on here:

I like this method as it ensures there isn't any water left that may not have drained out, especially since my engine has the cats. Any feedback from those who use this method?

Also, what size pump do you use for the anti-freeze? I was planning on using this pump hooked up to the fake-a-lake:


I'm guessing 500GPH will be plenty to feed the engine at idle but was curious what others used.

Edited by Brett B
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I use the antifreeze method, but didn't watch the video. I get the bu motor to operating temperature first, then drain the block. I save the old antifreeze from my other vehicles in a bucket with a hose bib and set it on the sun deck with a hose running to my home made flush adapter. I close the sea valve, open the hose bib, start the motor and the pump sucks the antifreeze in. I let it run until the exhaust water turns green then shut it off.

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I use anti-freeze with a couple of tubs under the exhaust and shaft packing to catch it as it exits the boat. I don't drain all of the spots they mention in the video, though. Just the exhaust manifold (the hose running over the v-drive; mine has a quick-disconnect) and the engine block (both sides). I also put a tee and shutoff in the 1-1/4" hose on the starboard side of the v-drive with a hose quick-disconnect that I can then connect a funnel to. I close the thru hull for the cooling intake, start the engine, then pour about 3 gallons of AF into the funnel. This gets to all parts of the engine where there is water including the heater, if you have one (making sure engine is at operating temp so that water is flowing to the heater).

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I also use the antifreeze method. Run for 20 or so minutes and get it nice and warm. Drain oil, at that time drain all the water follwoing the steps found in the site. Once drained, tighten it all back up. Replace filter and fill oil. Then I disconnect the fresh water intake and put a funnel into it. Nice to have someone help here. Hold the funnel and have 3-4 gallons ready. Run and keep it full. it will come out the back, and voila.

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Hey B, What they show there is pretty much exactly what I've done the past few years. I do it in reverse however. I run the antifreeze through the engine, THEN drain everything out and leave the hoses and everything off for the winter.

One thing that you're going to want to remember is when you pull the knock sensor plugs out of the engine block, stick a small screwdrive up in that hole and wiggle it around. From the advice of Michael, this causes quite a bit more water to flow out of the block.

If you want some help, let me know and I'll come give ya a hand.

Edited by Love2Ride
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LS1 is partial closed cooling, so it already has antifreeze in it. Hook a bucket to the fake a lake, suck in RV Antifreeze until it starts coming out the exhaust then kill the motor. Quick and easy.

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I don't use anti-freeze. I have the boat setup so the engine, exhaust, heater & shower are easy to drain in a few minutes. I use a Globe impeller (15 minutes of run-dry time) so I can bump start the engine to blow things out (like any outboard or jet boat). And I have a Boatsafe bilge heater.

This method allows us to use the boat most any weekend we want. Prep time is maybe 10 or 15 minutes to get the boat ready or put it away.

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Thanks for all the feedback guys. I have a heater so that is another one of my concerns as I know it can be hard to get all the water out.

Not if you set it up right. There is a thread in the How-to section on this site about how to use garden hose quick release fittings to drain the heater core, very similar to your exhaust setup now.

I used Prestone radiator flush Ts in the heater lines down in the bilge. Then I made sure the core was installed with the fittings on the bottom of the box. I pull the caps, gravity drains it & I've never had an issue. Learned this from the guys at HO/Hyperlite (back when Herb was running the show) & we had multiple boats setup this way so we could ride at a moments notice.


Edited by Bill_AirJunky
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Great Info! Glad to see I do it the same way. I did not use anti-freeze one year and lost the heater core. My rec is use ant-freeze if you are in sub-frezzing weather. Also, I lost a block one year when I took the boat into a dealer. I didn't check their work. If you are taking your boat in, check to make sure it has been winterized.

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I did not use anti-freeze one year and lost the heater core.

I'd be willing to bet that your core is installed so the fittings are on the top. If that is the case, it would definitely require anti-freeze or compressed air to drain.

Flip it around so the fittings are on the bottom & then all it takes is an opening for gravity to do the job.

Edited by Bill_AirJunky
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I use anti-freeze sometimes after I drain the water. My 2 cents...I think it's a waste of time and you'll never know if all parts of the engine have anit-freeze in them if you suck it in by running the engine. I pour anti-freeze in through the top of the intake where the heater hose comes out. Even if you don't have a heater you can just remove the plug from the intake and fill it. The anti-freeze will fill the heater core and all parts of the engine using this method. You will have to fill it, let it settle and fill it some more once you get to a certain point. Never had any issues even in sub-zero temps of the pacific northwest.

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So what do you guys do to get all the antifreeze out when you fire the boat up for the summerization.

I really hope that you don't just let it flow into the lake or into the storm drain....

I connect a garden hose to the intake, put a large Rubbermaid bin under the exhaust and shaft packing, then run the boat until it starts coming out clear. Then pump out the water/AF mixture back into the AF cans and throw in the trash.

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I drained everything and still decided to use anti-freeze. I like to over-do stuff just to be sure. So i went to Menards and bought two schedule 30 3 inch plastic elbows and a length of pipe. Took the rubber exhaust flappers off, ground a little off the plastic elbows until they fit inside the exhaust and pointed both down into a 5 gal pail filled w anti-freeze and my 3 hp sump pump. I connected the pump to my new Perko Flush-pro valve.

All set. Plugged in the pump, started the engine, and circulated anti-freeze until the temp gauge hit about 165* then ran it for another five minutes, fogged through the throttle body and shut it all down.

All together I lost about 2 cups of anti-freeze due to spillage, and I have the kit ready to go again for next year. Super easy and I'm confident it is done properly.

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