Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

Boat winch replacement


Steve B.

Recommended Posts

Looks so much better than my stock winch, think I will add another item on my list to do over winter along with a double wheel jack they make.

The F2 is built like a beast. It has cranking teeth and a cranking gear on both sides of the drum.

Link to comment

...............and I sold the old 1200 pound oem winch for $10 at the boat ramp.

Ha! Thats funny. I guess someone always need a strap, huh.

Looks good. So hows it work?

Winched mine up on Friday evening without a problem. Made me wonder if it would have been easier with one of these. But I took another slug off my G&T & winched it the last few inches. :rockon:

Link to comment

.....

Looks good. So hows it work?

:rockon:

I short bunked the boat, changed out the winch, then cranked the boat the rest of the way up the trailer with min effort. So, I think it will be fine. The crank speed is changed by pulling the handle out to the side one notch, pull it out two notches and you can free wheel the handle back out of the way, then push it in to lock it.

Link to comment

electric winch would rock!

Until it is dead. Watched a guy have this issue this year at our launch. He backed it in until the boat was floating and then could release it. He was pretty pissed by the time he got the boat straightened out on the trailer again.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

T

Which did you end up going with?

The two speed 3200 pounder. The 3200 pound rating is with three wraps on the winch, the pull rating goes down the more wraps of strap on the winch. This is not helpful as the maximum power is really only needed for the last few cranks. Still it is a big improvement over the stock Extreme trailer winch which had a 1200 pound rating. Also, the crank handle is attached to a bulge in the winch that sticks out to the side which help the handle clear the bow when cranking.

http://www.etrailer....FW32000101.html

Edited by Bozboat
Link to comment

Regarding winches, wouldn't it be nice if there were custom covers available for them? Anyone know of this? It makes sense to me FWIW. This would really help to keep down the corrosion providing still doing preventative measures as well. Might be a nice side biz for someone with "sail-making" talents....

Link to comment
  • 7 months later...
I put the fulton f2 (2000 lb version) on my trailer (previous was a 1500lb fulton) and it's no comparison. Best upgrade of the year. This thing has crazy cranking force.

I was actually going through winch straps on the old winch because the strap would rub on the exposed metal of the reel. Eventually the strap would start to fray and split at the rub (we trailer a lot of miles). The f2 winch has plastic covering the rub spot and so far so good, no fraying.

Well so much for my Fulton F2. Went kaboom at the boat ramp yesterday. The cog on the handle lost a tooth, which managed to rattle around in the works until it ate or cracked everything else. When fully disassembled on the cranking side there is just enough of a "flat" on the bottom of the crank spindle for my 8" crescent wrench to get a precarious bite and crank a little. Managed to get the boat on with that and a very deep trailer, and then did a 5 mph emergency stop in the parking lot to slide the boat up another inch and a half or so (aside: scary how easy that was!).

Here's a pic of reassembly of the mangled parts for the drive home.

null_zpsdf7c16f8.jpg

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...

Careful where you power load. It's illegal on many WA state owned ramps due to the damage it does to the ramp. If it's a dirt or sand ramp, it blows out a ton of material behind the boat into a big pile about 10' or 15' back. On a short/narrow concrete ramp the turbulance blows the dirt from under the concrete slab, builds the bilg pile & then the concrete slab breaks. Then the big pile eats props as the water level drops later in the summer.

The above problems have happened in some pretty popular ramps that many of us use here in WA ..... Sunland & Desert Aire on the Columbia & Lake Sammamish State Park.

I'm still using the stock winch on my Extreme trailer. Seems to be doing OK so far.

Also, consider installing a real safety strap/cable on the trailer to the bow ring. It amazes me how many trailers I see that don't have one. I had a winch implode on my MC trailer when I drove over a big bump.... guess it wasn't really meant to hold all that.

i honestly cannot believe people do not have a bow tie down other then the winch and a secondary safety chain or cable

  • Like 3
Link to comment

Bozboat, what size cable are you using for the safety strap? I've gotta have one made up.

I think its 3/8" cable. I liked it because it was coated in plastic and I didn't want a chain.

A9CEFD73-DC00-4231-A0BE-A82D6D47703D-737

2D42A1A7-C3C2-46BD-8198-1F9BF392A30E-737

Edited by Bozboat
Link to comment
  • 3 months later...

Bumping this thread....since the sprocket on my winch cracked in half yesterday while pulling the boat for the season. Fortunately, was able to get the boat secured.

It was a Shelby 1900 lb. Any suggestions for replacement?? I generally only pull the boat once a year...so probably not worth the spendy Fulton F2 2speed. My boat isn't too heavy....probably 2700 lbs.

post-5162-0-44943500-1381096681_thumb.jp

Link to comment

I think the factory winch on my Extreme trailer was 1200lbs with a 6" crank handle, this one took two hands to crank the Response to the bow stop. I upgraded to a Dutton Lainson DL 1602A winch. It has a 1600lbs pull and a 12" crank handle. Now it only takes one handle to

pull the Response to the bow stop. The install used all the factory holes on the trailer for an easy wasp.

http://www.dutton-lainson.com/proddetail.php?prod=14527

^ Not to pricey and a easy install.

Link to comment

Is there a "rule of thumb" as to what capacity the winch should be....relative to the weight of your boat?? Due to the low bow of my boat, I generally have to rely on the winch to get the bow over the front hull roller.

Link to comment

Is there a "rule of thumb" as to what capacity the winch should be....relative to the weight of your boat?? Due to the low bow of my boat, I generally have to rely on the winch to get the bow over the front hull roller.

found my answer in an article on etrailer.....

Finding the Right Capacity Winch for your Boat Trailer

  • Boat-size-to-winch capacity is generally 2 to 1
    • With good rollers and short winching distances, increase the ratio to 3 to 1
    • With wooden bunks and long winching distances, reduce the ratio to 1 to 1

For example, a 2,200-lb boat generally requires a 1,100-lb winch. If the same boat were winched a short distance with a low incline and with rollers in good condition, it can be safely winched with a 900-lb winch. The boat requires a winch with a 2,200-lb capacity if you are winching a longer distance with more resistance; for example, if the trailer had carpeted, wooden bunks or was set on a steeper incline.

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...