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Cold weather preventive.


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Leaving boat on lift in WI through the end of the month. Was wondering if there was a easy way to bleed the block quickly so it does not freeze up on me. Thinking out loud wondering if I could hook up a ball c*** valve to drain block quickly.

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c*** isnt really a dirty word when used in the correct context, such as plumbing, sealants (although it is spelled different) or chickens.

And unless you want a toilet flapper on the side of your engine, im guessing what you had in mind was a ball valve. :Tease3:

Knock sensors present a problem, so do shower/heater/ballast if you've got them. We've gotten pretty quick at just draining the block the regular way. I'd be interested in other options, but cant see a efficient way to save any significant amount of time in the long run.

edit: hahaha i thought i was being a smarty... turns out its the forum that inserts the asterisks. :oops:

Edited by chadwick02
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Your boat is a direct drive....you should be able to pull the plugs, knock sensor, petcock and hoses in less than 5 minutes.

I would not trust a 50 cent light bulb in the engine compartment to keep you from a $4,500 block swap job.

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Boy do I have the answer for you. I live in WI and ride as soon as ice out in the early season, and ride all the way until ice forms around thanksgiving. Here's what you need to do with your boat up on the lift out of the water.

A) Disconnect manifold connector hose. There is essentially a black hose that connects both exhaust manifolds together, it runs under your engine. On one side of the engine (port side on mine) there should be a glorified garden hose connector - disconnect this and let the water drain out of the manifold.

B) On boats with EFI, your drain plugs get replaced with knock sensors. I do not know if you have drain plugs or knock sensors. If they are drain plugs, simply turn the mini T-handle to the left until it begins to drain. If you have knock sensors grab a 1/2" socket and turn out the nylon lock nut on the knock sensor stud. Completely remove that nut and the knock sensor can slide off the stud (you can leave it hooked up to the wires and just let it hang off to the side). Now grab a 1" socket and turn out the knock sensor stud (what your knock sensor was just screw onto). Completely remove the stud and water will drain out. Repeat on both sides. And let all water drain out.

C) Now you want to bump start your motor to get the extra bit of water out (VERY IMPORTANT especially if you have a flushkit). By bump start I mean literally have a helper start your engine and watch the extra water drain out of your drain plugs. When the extra water is done draining out (shouldn't be more than 5-10 seconds) shut the boat off. I recommend using globe brand impellers if you run early and late season as they are much more durable and resistant to dry starting. They are rated to run dry for a total of 15 mins over their life time. They are twice as expensive but completely worth it. I keep the same impeller for two seasons as well.

D) After you got the extra water out, put your knock sensors studs and knock sensor back together immediately so your stud holes dont start to scale (rust) overnight. Also reconnect the glorified garden hose on the manifolds and you're ready to run next time.

This will take you a LONG time your first time. Do not be discouraged. After 2 or 3 times you will be doing this whole exercise in 5 mins. Please let me know if you have additional questions. I have been doing this for years and never had an issue.

Edit: As suggested do no install a ball valve in between the knock sensor and the block or risk trashing your engine. There are threads on here about it. Always keep the knock sensor stud directly screwed into the block.

Edited by wakeboarder3780
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If you are going to remove plugs, fittings and connectors after every use, only install them hand tight. Doubt any of them will leak, and if they do, it will only be drops. Don't burn your hand with the hot water either.

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I wouldn't do that with the knock sensor studs and knock sensors. If you don't tighten the stud firmly enough, when you are trying to loosen the 1/2" nut the stud will start to spin with it, then you're up sh*t creek without a paddle. I would still recommend snugly tightening all knock sensor components, JMHO.

If you have drain plugs (without knock sensors), then I could agree.

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I wouldn't do that with the knock sensor studs and knock sensors. If you don't tighten the stud firmly enough, when you are trying to loosen the 1/2" nut the stud will start to spin with it, then you're up sh*t creek without a paddle. I would still recommend snugly tightening all knock sensor components, JMHO.

Been doin it for 5 yrs now. Indmar's recommendation is only 14 lbs

Edited by Bill_AirJunky
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I wouldn't do that with the knock sensor studs and knock sensors. If you don't tighten the stud firmly enough, when you are trying to loosen the 1/2" nut the stud will start to spin with it, then you're up sh*t creek without a paddle. I would still recommend snugly tightening all knock sensor components, JMHO.

If you have drain plugs (without knock sensors), then I could agree.

I think the OP has the same type of knock sensors as me, where it just threads into the block in one piece.
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Do you have a picture of those handy john? Just curious what they look like and how they differ from my setup. Would be a good learning experience. I'll take a pic of mine this tuesday if we go out.

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