Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

Hammerhead winterizing... slight annoyance


OneMoreSet

Recommended Posts

Started winterizing the boat this weekend and was abit annoyed at indmar for they way they put together the hammerhead exhaust manifold.

I typically winterize using RV plumbing antifreeze, but this year i skipped this step, in retrospect i think i may reconsider.

The way the manifold is lined up and the geometry of how it sits in the engine compartment makes it difficult to get all the water out of the exhaust manifold. There is a runner at the very bottom of the manifold that collects water that drops into the quick disconnect hose. That runner in particular is angled so that it slopes AWAY from the drain opening. To compound things is that - this runner is fairly small diameter so can quite conceivably fill up completely making damage even more likely...

I had to take the hoses off the manifold quickconnect and thermostat lines off each side which are really tough to get off. I did this to try and hook up the shop vac to suck out any water. That seemed to work but its difficult to know how much you got, especially since its a pretty big cavity it could be sucking from elsewhere.

I then decided to jack up the trailer as much as possible in the front to get out any additional water. When i jacked it up a bit more water came out. There is a limit as to how much you can jack it up given the prop guard on the trailer.

Quite annoying - especially since on the exhaust manifold there seems to be a location for a drain port that hasnt been machined out for a plug. And there is a drain port but its at the wrong end given the geometry.

Anyways, thought i'd forward this along in case it can be of use to anyone else.

Cheers

** cant figure out how to post pics for some reason?? if you want one let me know i can email it.

Edited by OneMoreSet
Link to comment

+1

OMS- just ensure you have the engine up to operating temps so you know for sure the thermostat DEF is open before you suck the antifreeze thru if you choose to go that option.. there are a couple examples where folks did it themselves, thermostat was still closed and left a loop of pure water in the engine even though pink was coming out the exaust and thru hull shaft. pls dont dump the pink stuff in the lake in the spring.

Have you asked your local dealer to do the block draining only... and be there to watch him do it? that might cost you $100 or so, but then at least you know you have it right...most prevailing thoughts on here are to go with dry blocks, no antifreeze. I had 2 dealers, one did it with antifreeze in MD, WSA goes with dry blocks.

Link to comment

Yeah, I've always done the RV antifreeze and never had an issue and it doesnt take too long. Especially on this one it would be easy since it has a perko flush pro...

But I wanted to do it without this year - I didnt realize that water and the RV antifreeze dont mix - meaning that they will separate and settle. So this is a bit concerning - if there just so happens to be a pocket of water trapped inside regardless of the flush over time the water will separate from the antifreeze and it will freeze which could be bad.

Actually in the past when i've winterized with antifreeze, I've always drained it again - draining the antifreeze out. Essentially thinking that if there was something left inside after the drain it would be antifreeze and it would be fine if it would freeze. It concerned me a bit to think though that a trace of water would separate and still could cause an issue.

I think its really purely hypothetical though - chances of any discernable amount of water being left after a full cycle of antifreeze would be very small.

Also it has taken a while to bring the engine upto op. temp to ensure the thermostat is open - since i've learned that its simplest to just remove the thermostat and cycle through the antifreeze without the tstat in place.

After all that I think next year I'll go back to the flush with antifreeze and drain approach. Not really any longer and perhaps a bit of extra insurance, possibly...

Cheers!

Link to comment

Also it has taken a while to bring the engine upto op. temp to ensure the thermostat is open - since i've learned that its simplest to just remove the thermostat and cycle through the antifreeze without the tstat in place.

run it on the hose up to operating temp of 160. cut it off and immediately and quickly turn the water off. Engine temps will spike to 170-175 or so from the built up heat....put your cutoff hose into the AF jugs and fire it up. Tstat should be wide open at anything over 160.

I saw guys doing this on a dock boat lift....bringing it up to 160, then quickly lift the boat out of the water to suck the AF thru the engine. terrible for the lake.

Link to comment

run it on the hose up to operating temp of 160. cut it off and immediately and quickly turn the water off. Engine temps will spike to 170-175 or so from the built up heat....put your cutoff hose into the AF jugs and fire it up. Tstat should be wide open at anything over 160.

I saw guys doing this on a dock boat lift....bringing it up to 160, then quickly lift the boat out of the water to suck the AF thru the engine. terrible for the lake.

I run mine up to operating temp on the hose, then change the oil. WIth the fresh oil in the engine, I start it and bring it up to temp again, then cut the engine, quickly drain all the water, then run it to suck in antifreeze. Seems to work fine. After that, remove the plugs and put a small squirt of fogging oil in each cylinder, and bump it over with the key to distribute the oil.

Once the engine has got the antifreeze in it, I do the ballast tanks too. Small sump pump in the bucket to a fake a lake on the intake. Front of the boat up in the air high to get all the water out of the tanks first. Kick both pumps on (a small ball valve on the sump pump to control the flow, otherwise it sprays everywhere). I put a few gallons into each tank, then drain it back out, catching it in my bucket from the drain port on the side of the hull. I can do all 4 tanks with just a few gallons by re-using it. Just be sure if it looks watered down to add some fresh stuff to your bucket.

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...