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Monsoon 340 cap/rotor replacement.


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I got my boat used and was looking to do some basic tuneups myself. I google'd/youtube'd cap&rotor replacements and it seemed easy enough. I got the parts from skidim. Then I located where it was in the engine and tried to unscrew the cap and ran into a few problems.

- The screws are on real tight. My torx precison set was too small to get the torque to I need to get them out. I got some with a little larger handle and was able to make some headway on the screw that is away from the engine, but that leads to problem #2.

- The other screw is almost directly under a pressure sensor. If I unplug the sensor it's a bit easier but still pretty hard to get at it. I tried to unscrew the it anyway to see if it would loosen, but just couldn't get my arm in a good position to unscrew it given how tight it is. I almost think I'm going to have get a t-handle to get it off.

I only had a couple minutes to look at it so far but it looked like I could unscrew and remove the sensor to make a little more room, but I think it would still be tough to get to the distributor cap screw, and nigh impossible to put it back in when I'm done. I think I probably just need to remove the plenum cover(?). Is it just the allen bolts on top or does it get more complicated? Is there anything else I'll need to remove in order to get decent access to both sides of the distributor cap to take if off and put the new one back on?

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Was the boat running poorly?

I've always treated the cap and rotor as fail and replace items. As opposed to an impeller which I replace every year as preventative maintenance. My thought process is that the engine will start to run poorly when the cap and rotor go bad and we are on a relatively small lake anyway so worst case scenario we paddle in and replace it. It seems the cap is a bit of a pain in the butt to open for inspection. Is there a seal that could be compromised by opening it up?

How is is my logic?

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When you do put a new cap and rotor on the difference is HUGE.

Please explain...I'm curious what changed. I would think that your 07 shouldn't need a new cap and rotor already, but maybe I'm off.

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Please explain...I'm curious what changed. I would think that your 07 shouldn't need a new cap and rotor already, but maybe I'm off.

Better contacts, stronger current through the wire to the plug, faster starts, smoother running. That's my thought anyway. I think the life of a cap and rotor depend on type of use and the environment.

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Was the boat running poorly?

I've always treated the cap and rotor as fail and replace items. As opposed to an impeller which I replace every year as preventative maintenance. My thought process is that the engine will start to run poorly when the cap and rotor go bad and we are on a relatively small lake anyway so worst case scenario we paddle in and replace it. It seems the cap is a bit of a pain in the butt to open for inspection. Is there a seal that could be compromised by opening it up?

How is is my logic?

The cap an rotor should be replaced as a maintenance item in my opinion. I understand your on a small lake and paddling in isn't a factor but there can be a performance deterioration that you can't feel in the seat of your pants. This can affect fuel consumption. Now if your boat is a catalyst it becomes even more important to keep the engine tuned.

Did a tune up on an -BS-'s 09 over the summer. While the boat actually seemed to run pretty good, after we tuned there was a significant improvement....enough that he was impressed anyway.

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I got around to this today. Just unscrewed and rotated the sensor out of the way. It was still pretty tight on that side but I was able to get the screw out. Taking off and putting on the cap required a bit more fuss than I had originally planned on but it wasn't too bad.

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  • 2 weeks later...

every year for me, not sure why it needs it, my old boat didn't, but it makes a very noticeable difference, I do it in the spring after the significant temp & humidity swings ease up. I can always see some corrosion on the contacts. (edit: yes, brass for sure, I've been finding an Accel #8132 with brass contacts on EBAY usually for around $18.)

Edited by Green_Giant
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  • 6 months later...

what about changing over to an electronic ignition system , MSD seems to be a good choice , replace the whole distributor ,coil and leads .. any one got any thoughts..

costs a bit more but they say you get a much stronger and more consistent spark that equals better fuel consumtion , small increase in hp and a smoother ride .

doest any one know if it is worth it

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