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Trailer Tongue Surge Brake Maintenance?


wakeboarder3780

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Hey guys, I'm noticing some "clunking" noises when towing the boat and was wondering if the tongue of the trailer needed to be oiled or greased? I have an 06 boatmate trailer with surge brakes and essentially the front section of the tongue telescopes to detect when the tow vehicle is braking or not. Is it possible this is getting a bit dry and needs some oil or grease? If so is there a recommended way of doing so?

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Check the brake fluid in the master cylinder, if it is low obviously add more. It should be Dot3 fluid. I have noticed when the pads start wearing past 50% or the fluid is down the surge brake unit develops a bit more play that you can hear or feel when stopping and starting. The perfect solution to removing all the play is new pads and bleed the system to ensure no air bubbles are trapped in the lines.

If you have a leak in the brake line system, you might find that one of your trailer wheels- on the inside of the wheel will show you where the leak might be with residual fluid in your rim

also if you have a pin in the swing tounge unit, see if the tounge can move back and forth (play in the pin). If you do not use the swing portion, put a grade 8 bolt to remove the play.

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Check the brake fluid in the master cylinder, if it is low obviously add more. It should be Dot3 fluid. I have noticed when the pads start wearing past 50% or the fluid is down the surge brake unit develops a bit more play that you can hear or feel when stopping and starting. The perfect solution to removing all the play is new pads and bleed the system to ensure no air bubbles are trapped in the lines.

If you have a leak in the brake line system, you might find that one of your trailer wheels- on the inside of the wheel will show you where the leak might be with residual fluid in your rim

also if you have a pin in the swing tounge unit, see if the tounge can move back and forth (play in the pin). If you do not use the swing portion, put a grade 8 bolt to remove the play.

There is also a return spring in there that has a tendency to fail. This is in addition to eveyting above not instead of, make sure you check all listed components.

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Most actuators will have a small shock absorber, they wear out/weaken. Given the environment of the brakes, you should change the fluid every two to three years. If you are seeing rust coloration in the fluid, find out where it is coming from. Water in the fluid will allow the master cylinder ot slaves to rust and lock up. Not good especially if it locks in the braking mode. Once trailer brakes start to break down, they suck to maintain.

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There is also a return spring in there that has a tendency to fail. This is in addition to eveyting above not instead of, make sure you check all listed components.

Any idea how hard it is to replace?
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Did it once on a different brand of trailer, the design is the same. There are a couple of large pins held in place with snap rings. Once these are out you will have access to the acutator with the return spring (shock absorber). IIRC it really is not that hard to change once you get the correct part and gain access. When you start taking things apart be sure you have some blocks around (within reach) to hold up the actuator so it doesn't hang on the line.

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I don't think you have to fully remove the actuator. I beleive you just have to pull the front pin on the actuator and the bolt and the floating hitch.

Don't disconnect the brake line unless you want to bleed the brakes.

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Just replaced the shock in my 06 SMP trailer with a UFP actuator. Cost about $30 for shock on line. It solved my trailer clunking problem. The old shock was not blown but it was weaker than the new one. I have to unhook line to replace mine. Can't slide it out far enough otherwise.

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Great advice folks, I've never taken this apart before but I know the snap ring and bolt you are talking about so I'm hoping if I remove those the assembly will drop to the point where I can play with it. Since I will likely need parts and I've never bought parts for a trailer before (only vehicles) how the heck do you find parts?

So far I may need to replace:

Rotors (anyone know what vehicle I can say at a shop to get the equivalent rotors?)

Brake Pads (same question as rotors)

Return spring (I have no idea how to obtain this, any suggestions?)

Shock absorber (I have no idea how to obtain this, any suggestions?)

One last question, the term "master cylinder" was used. I've only seen these in a vehicle before. I'm assuming this is the main part that will drop when removing the snap ring and bolt. Is this true? Also does the master cylinder have a separate reservoir to fill fluid in or do you fill the master cylinder itself? If you fill the MC itself, does it have an obvious fill port? IIRC a car's master cylinder has a separate reservoir that you fill and I imagine there is very high pressure inside the MC so I'm afraid to crack it open and fill it.

Edit: Thank you very much for the help so far! :werule:

Edited by wakeboarder3780
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I would just replace the acuator all together and replace all fluid and bleed the system, rather than chasing a problem, hindsight being 20/20 :whistle: There can be other reasons for the clunk. Are you sure the brakes are still functioning properly? Try reversing up a slight incline without the electrical hooked up... do the brakes stop you?

I've seen on mine twice and once on a friends that the saftey look out wire will rub on the rubber boot, eventually destroying it, and dirt/mud gets in the master cylinder and wrecks it. Finally got smart and re-routed it.

Don't hear too much about pads and/or rotors needing replaced, I'd start at the tongue.

JM2C

For parts contact Jerry Jones at Boatmate

boatmatetrailers.com

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The tailer website will have parts avaliable. that is where I would go for all parts as trying to match numbers may be difficult at best, though the parts shouldbe readly avaliable. You have a port on the top of your trailer toung that has the fill port under it. Just remove the plastic cap then the rubber stopper and filll, bleading the old fluid is a good idea every couple of years. This will also give you the oppertunity to see if you are getting any water into your system as Nate (ndawg12) alluded to.

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