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jwl019

Vdrive shaft and strut removal instructions?

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jwl019

Anyone by chance have a good link or pics with step by step instructions on how to remove the shaft and strut?

About to run to store, looks like I am gonna need some beer.

Any info would help, thanks!

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Bozboat

Well, your going to need lots of beer.

I had to drop my rudder to start with, depending on your trailer may require lifting boat or leaving it a foot or so back on the trailer

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malibuparadise

Yes indeed, I needed to remove the rudder too, but it couldn't drop all the way down due to the prop guard, so I used a hydraulic lifter with 4x4s (a 3' one running under the transom at the edge, with a short one perpindicular to it, and resting on the lifter. Then I jacked up lifter which lifted the whole back end of boat just enough for the rudder to drop down.

BUT, IMHO separating the shaft from the tranny, and properly removing the coupling, needs to be done by either a marine mechcanic, or someone who really knows what they are doing, and it requires special tools....alignment is real key to reinstall as well, naturally.

see

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jwl019

Short bunked boat on trailer, was thinking that if I could remove the rudder and shaft, I could at least roll the shaft on the ground just to see how bad it is. I know the strut is bad just by looking at it (bare minimum bearings have to be replaced). But just at looking at it, don't think rudder has to come out for shaft removal, looks like plenty of room. Guess I should have really studied this area when buying the boat, but only glanced at it. Prop had a few dings on it that I had repaired and always was taking off/swapping prop at night so never really caught on to it.

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Bozboat

Well it's all fixable, and you can take your time as its at the end of the season

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jwl019

Here are a few pics of my situation, it is so obvious with the prop off. Kicking myself in the tail for not seeing it before.

ShaftPic1_zpsf1017368.jpg

ShaftPic2_zps4e31e278.jpg

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grandude

The shaft will clear the rudder once you have the strut off. You typically only have to drop the rudder to pull the shaft without removing the strut. I would do all the prep work to remove the shaft as follows.

I would remove the coupling bolts first. (Leave the prop on the shaft as you may need it to keep the shaft from spinning as you remove the nut inside the coupling.) Back the hex bolt out of the side of the coupling then remove the nut inside the coupling. This is often difficult if not impossible with conventional tools. (They make an end wrench specifically for this) or you can cut down a socket to get to the nut inside the coupling. Remove the nut, and then put it back on about 1 turn to protect the threads on the end. (You will need 4 bolts the same size that you remove from the coupling but about 1 1/2" longer for this next part.) Start the bolts and nuts around the coupling leaving everything loose for now. You need to take a socket approximately the same size as the nut on the shaft inside the coupling and place it flat side against the nut inside the gap between the couplings. (You are going to press the shaft out of the coupling). You will need someone to hold the socket inside the coupling in line with the shaft and someone to tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern to press against the shaft. It may take several rounds of tightening and cross tightening to get it to pop but it will come off like a prop coming off the other end of the shaft. You can now remove the nut the rest of the way, remove the key way and coupling. Now remove the prop and you can proceed to remove the strut. Remove the bolts on the strut; hit it with a dead blow hammer from the side to remove form the hull. You can now remove both the shaft and strut.

When you put everything back together you need to put the shaft back in place at least partially before installing the strut, or you'll face the same problem.

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jwl019

Thanks for all the tips, I am going to try to start tackling this project this week (a little each night).

Going to try to find a used strut possibly, if I find one, any suggestions on strut bushings? I have seen 2yet types, the thermal plastic ones at skidim and the regular kind at bakes. Since the strut will be off, I might as well put some in it before going back up with it.

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jwl019

Started last night on the project and have dropped the rudder and removed the strut. I have a new strut on order coming out of Houston, was cheaper than straightening the strut and replacing the bushings. Thanks to Baumann Props out of Houston for the info about just buying a new one! I looked at the drive shaft last night after removing the strut and I think it is fine, so I may not pull it and install the strut to see if I can feel any vibration.

Thanks for all ya'lls help, it made this an easier task than what I thought. Now just the going back up with it. Didn't look like very much sealant around the bolt holes and mount for the strut, I had planned on using a whole lot more 3M 5200 than what I saw came on there originally.

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jwl019

:werule:

That it does! Thanks!

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jwl019

Strut came in yesterday, looks good. Doesn't say Malibu on the side, but for $250 cheaper than the ones that do, I think I can do without. Shaft is still good and used a feeler gauge that reads down to .0015, and that will not even fit so I think once I get some help on installing the strut, everything should be fine. Hopefully I can get it installed before this weekend and give it a try! Then I guess if all goes right, it will be time to winterize the boat unfortunately!

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jwl019

Tested the new strut today and everything works great. No unordinary noises from engine/transmission/Vdrive or prop shaft and no vibrations! Boat is back up and running 100%, may have to take it out one more time just for a cruise before winterizing it.

Thanks everyone for the help.

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