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GrantD

94 Echelon Impeller Change Out Question

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GrantD

I've had this impeller in for four years...yeah...I know...lucky. So, figure time to change it.

I bought a replacement a few years back....in case of emergency...just want to make sure it's the correct one.

It's a Sierra 18-3087...pkg says it replaces Merc 47-59362...receipt says Jabsco Impeller Kit. Inside of impeller is round but one side is flat.

There's 3 gaskets that come with it...2 of same 18-0386 water pump body gasket (replaces merc 27-94914)

other one is 18-0916 water pump gasket (replaces merc 27-805215-1 Bravo applications)

Boat has the Mercruiser 5.7L Competition Ski GM V8, serial number on engine is OF224903

After reading other posts, sounds like I don't have to remove entire pump...just the backside to get to impeller?

Does this impeller need the special tool to remove? Thought I read someone with same boat says it just pushes off...?

Thought after I winterize the motor, I'd take old one off....want to circ coolant thru block before changing that out ;-)

On that note, as I don't have a replc thermostat gasket...was just going to run boat about 15 min on hose into fresh water intake like in past years and watch temp gauge...once it rises, shut down. Get my oversized jug can that holds two gallons of antifreeze, start boat and run that antifreeze thru until dauther says she sees it come out exhast.

While we're doing that, son is spraying Stabil fogging oil into carb while wife makes sure engine doesn't die and temp guage isn't rising. 4 person crew makes this work well.

For next spring, anyone know replacement thermostat part #? My temp guage rarely goes above 160 but guess time I should change that too.

Thanks!

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coldwater-echelon

I have a '93 Echelon LX and my advise is to pull the whole raw water pump, it will be way easier. It sounds like you have the correct impeller and gaskets. It will take a little effort but the old impeller will slide off the shaft and the new one will push on. Some dish soap on the new one will help it slid against the housing a little easier. As for the thermostat gasket, I pull my thermostat each fall when I winterize to ensure I have anti-freeze through the whole motor. This way I don't have to worry about warming the motor up and hoping the thermostat is open. I use a thin layer of gasket maker rather than keep replacing gaskets, I just found it was easier.

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martinarcher

Totally agree that pulling the whole pump makes the job way easier. Just note while way is up so you know which hose port is the inlet and outlet. After that, take the pulley off, unbolt it from the mount and it comes right off. After that you can get it on workbench and easily split it and replace the impeller.

I've only failed 1 on the water and that was still how I changed it. It just beats fighting with it with limited access and space.

Oh, and make sure you have 4-5 gallons in that bucket or you won't see anything but water coming out of the exhaust. After two years of running back to the parts store for another gallon of antifreeze I don't make that mistake anymore. :lol:

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martinarcher

It looks like your gasket part numbers are right. I use Sierra Impeller Kit #18-3309 which includes the following....

(1) 18-3350 Wear Plate - replaces O.E.# 94576

(1) 18-3351 Wear Plate - replaces O.E.# 94916

(1) 18-3087 Impeller - replaces O.E.# 47-59362

(2) 18-0386 Body Gasket - replaces O.E.# 27-94914

(1) 18-0916 Water Pump Gasket - replaces O.E.# 27-805215-1

If your kit didn't come with the wear plates I would recommend getting them as well since they haven't been changed in 4 years.

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Michigan boarder

Yep, easier to remove the whole thing.

Also, if you are going to add antifreeze, I would first drain the water out. So run your engine up to temp, then drain the engine via the two drains on each side of the block and by removing the hoses from the circulator pump and impeller. Then re-secure everything, then run the antifreeze thru. Otherwise there might be water trapped in there.

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GrantD

Thanks for all replies....good one on gasket maker Coldwater....what brand gasket sealer do you use? Permatex? Just any silicone RTV based sealant?

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GrantD

Just wanted to update on the winterization/thermostat issue. Only took two gallons of antifreeze after pulling the thermostat...and it ran green when I pulled hoses and block drain plugs.

On the thermostat issue...if first time, MAKE SURE you don't break the plastic sleeve holding the thermostat down. DANG...wish someone would have mentioned that sleeve. No biggie...can replace next spring. On that note, was a 140 degree t-stat....so...replace with same or 160? Run fresh water only and water temp never gets over 82...most in 70's...

Thanks!

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Michigan boarder

Just wanted to update on the winterization/thermostat issue. Only took two gallons of antifreeze after pulling the thermostat...and it ran green when I pulled hoses and block drain plugs.

On the thermostat issue...if first time, MAKE SURE you don't break the plastic sleeve holding the thermostat down. DANG...wish someone would have mentioned that sleeve. No biggie...can replace next spring. On that note, was a 140 degree t-stat....so...replace with same or 160? Run fresh water only and water temp never gets over 82...most in 70's...

Thanks!

Hey, was your thermostat located on the top of the engine? Like the very top? I took that little cover off of mine - no thermostat. Had to take that whole body with 4 hoses attached to it off, it was underneath all of that. I've seen it put in both places on different diagrams, just curious about yours.

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EchelonMike

When removing the whole pump, be careful when pulling it free of the big inlet and outlet hoses. When mine popped free as I was pulling hard on it, i accidentally hit the pump housing on a bracket and cracked the housing - it's made of plastic. That was a $90 mistake you want to avoid. Actually for me, it was a $180 mistake as I did it two years in a row..The second time whispering to myself...."careful, careful....d'oh!!!!". :-)

But removing the whole pump is the way to go for sure. Good luck!

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GrantD

Finally did it yesterday...replaced the impeller that I was dreading. Piece of cake...just needle nose to pull out the old. Was surprised that the pump body is plastic, did not have ANY gaskets except for a metal wear plate, and everything looked new. But, since I had pump off motor, thought might as well change out anyways just due to rubber aging. Couple of questions though...

1. Are you supposed to use any kind of grease on impeller to help on first start up? I've read that only needed to help impeller install...

2. Does it matter if one of the "vanes" isn't in same direction? I've read that it doesn't....and spent about 30 minutes making sure they all did. Would have been much faster process if I didn't sweat that one.

3. Why did my Sierra replacement kit have two gaskets when they weren't needed? It's a Sierra 18-3087...pkg says it replaces Merc 47-59362...receipt says Jabsco Impeller Kit.
There's 3 gaskets that come with it...2 of same 18-0386 water pump body gasket (replaces merc 27-94914)

other one is 18-0916 water pump gasket (replaces merc 27-805215-1 Bravo applications)

Other than that...she's ready for skiing!

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Oberon

1. A little grease or petroleum jelly makes installation a little easier and probably helps reduce friction on the first start before water gets to the pump. I've always just used the grease that comes with the Johnson impeller. If the Jabsco doesn't come with grease I wouldn't worry about it.

2. The vanes will line themselves up as soon as you turn the engine over. You can skip that step next year.

3. The same impeller is used in multiple pumps. Rather than sell multiple part numbers with different gaskets they just throw all possible gaskets in one package. It is a little confusing but way more convenient than tearing the pump apart and discovering you have the wrong part.

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