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Poorman's Gate


martinarcher

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Here are some pics of the mounting arrangement....

RAM mount ball up front and stainless screw eye for the turnbuckle.

IMAG1148.jpg

Here is a top down view of the back of the gate.

IMAG1142.jpg

The original gate size.

IMAG1147.jpg

The resized gate.

IMAG1154.jpg

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Must be nice having that straight cut angle off your boat. I got a whole bunch of angles I have to deal with. I got out on the water today, but no new pics. 750's full in each locker, 400 in the ski locker and also 2 150# friends on the surf side sitting on the rear bench seat and the wake was GIANORMIS. Better than I have ever had with over close to 3000# of water all on the surf side, without the gate. Will get some pics middle of this week. It is so nice not having the boat lean like a mo fo when your stopped. The reason I don't surf to often is all the set up time and messing around with the weight.

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Must be nice having that straight cut angle off your boat. I got a whole bunch of angles I have to deal with. I got out on the water today, but no new pics. 750's full in each locker, 400 in the ski locker and also 2 150# friends on the surf side sitting on the rear bench seat and the wake was GIANORMIS. Better than I have ever had with over close to 3000# of water all on the surf side, without the gate. Will get some pics middle of this week. It is so nice not having the boat lean like a mo fo when your stopped. The reason I don't surf to often is all the set up time and messing around with the weight.

I hear you. It is very nice to run less weight and get more! :) Oh, and yeah I like my straight transom. :thumbup:

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MA-

couple questions... I see you made it shorter... I assume you observed dimishing returns by doing that(adding more weight sinking the rear more)? or you made it shorter so it wouldnt look so crazy?

Also, in regards to the length... I think yours is pretty long at 22-25"..... Dont you think you could get the same results at 12-18"? did you play with the length any? Reason I ask is the comments on the low speed manuervability. The shorther the gate lengthwise I would assume easier to mauever. Is the full 22" required to delay the convergence from what you saw?

Edited by nyryan2001
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Making the gate shorter did not seem to reduce the effectiveness of the gate or hurt the wave at all. It still seemed to divert the majority of the water and didn't really seem to miss much.

Regarding the length of the gate, I made mine long in order to match the length of my teak deck. When "stowed" I wanted it to tuck in nicely along the deck and look appropriate. I'm not sure if changing the length would affect the wave, but my guess is that would be the change that would make the most difference. If the gate is delaying the convergence of the wakes, one would think the longer the gate the more effective the delay would be. Anyone else messed with different length gates that could confirm or deny my suspicions?

  • Like 1
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Okay, here's the YouTube Link. I'd have let it run longer, but in editing that annoying water drop really ruins it anyways. I'll stick another video up in a while where its later in the clip where I'm ropeless and riding wayyy back on the wave.

I need to get a video taken on the normal side as well. Maybe today I'll get out again.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.c...ed/fHM5TXzoWSA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Edited by Slurpee
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Nice work Slurpee!

So are you going to run SlurpeeGate from now on?

Yeah. WakeMD and I are Goofy, and a couple others in our crew, but we're always matched 1 to 1 with normal riders and no one likes spending half the day without a turn until we switch sides or what not. The wave is definitely an improvement as well. I'll dig through my photos and see if I can find some that are acceptable for comparison that are with my boat tilted traditionally.

The biggest thing though is that for a big wave with just WakeMD driving me I have to fill up all the plumbed in ballast, plus two more 400lb bags in the cabin using a plumbed in pump. That second extra bags is a pain because I have to detach the plumbed in pump, deal with the water gush before capping, and then hook up the second bag. And steering with that tilt isn't fun on an busy day with lots of chop. With this I can run plumbed in ballast only.

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Very impressive!! and the last pic, well what can ya say other than YAHOO!! Lets surf!!

So for the mounting/attaching to the deck, there is just the one hole (the screwdriver) ?? even better yet, as simplicity and ease to switch sides makes it even better/user friendly!!

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Very impressive!! and the last pic, well what can ya say other than YAHOO!! Lets surf!!

So for the mounting/attaching to the deck, there is just the one hole (the screwdriver) ?? even better yet, as simplicity and ease to switch sides makes it even better/user friendly!!

Yup. One pin only is needed and its rock solid. I just used a real long Philips head. I'll get a more low profile hitch pin or something for the final product that I can lanyard to the mount. Lol I almost dropped it in the water once so I definitely want a lanyard.

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Nice job man. Looks like it works great to boot! I like the design and what you did to fill in the gap. I totally agree, I had a set-up with a bit too much gap there and it unreal how much water it throws onto the back of the boat! Are you going to finalize this design and run it or are you going for a more permanent set-up that attaches to the transom? Isn't it unreal what it does to the length of the wave!?!? Awesome pics too. I love seeing DIY projects. :)

I finally bit the bullet and ordered a pair of Lenco 102's today, some stainless take-a-part hinges, and building material for the gate. I am pumped! :yahoo:

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I finally bit the bullet and ordered a pair of Lenco 102's today, some stainless take-a-part hinges, and building material for the gate. I am pumped! :yahoo:

You did it... It's a good thing I am looking at upgrading my boat, otherwise I'd have to order something :crazy:

  • Like 1
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Nice job man. Looks like it works great to boot! I like the design and what you did to fill in the gap. I totally agree, I had a set-up with a bit too much gap there and it unreal how much water it throws onto the back of the boat! Are you going to finalize this design and run it or are you going for a more permanent set-up that attaches to the transom? Isn't it unreal what it does to the length of the wave!?!? Awesome pics too. I love seeing DIY projects. :)

I finally bit the bullet and ordered a pair of Lenco 102's today, some stainless take-a-part hinges, and building material for the gate. I am pumped! :yahoo:

Nah. No way I'd make this permanently mounted. Not this summer anyways. It's too much material my family could hurt themselves on. I'm 100% comfortable with it back there when people are surfing and such, but I want it off when people are playing around on the platform. I've had kids hurt themselves on just the tow rings. Imagine that big wing. Besides I can move it from one side to another as quickly as the actuators could close one and open the other if I'm in a hurry. I can't do the wave to wave changes though during runtime obviously. If that's your goal then yeah, you'd have to mount it up.

I have considered it though. I need my stern really deep with the diamond hull to throw that wave, so I have to have a tall gate otherwise it all washes out like is being reported by some of the stock boats with the OEM gate. That means I'd need to re-engineer the loads to stand up under one actuators mount point. No way I'm buying two actuators per gate. No biggee since I was going to lay a fiberglass gate or maybe mill it from aluminum this winter. The length of the actuator is also an issue. The shortest Lenco ones are almost as long as the whole assembly. I still want it removable for a lot of reasons so the actuator has to mount to the bracket, not the hull. A new bracket made out of aluminum could probably be cleaned up with an under-mount actuator and a clean NEMA4X through hull connector would let me get power to it while still being removeable.

Controlling it isn't a big deal as I already have an Arduino kit controlling SPI addressable LED lights and stuff. Running some relays with timers and a calibration routine from it would be easy.

Hmmmmm, now I'm wondering if I could do it? I guess I'll fab up two of these over the winter out of modern material. Can't hurt to have a spare and maybe I'll leave myself the option to do some serious wakesurf shaping.

Now see what you've gone and done..... the projects never cease.

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Nice work Slurpee. This is why I haven't permanently attached anything yet, this design is well more thought out than anything I've thought of :thumbup: Did you ever find any more push on regular side, can't wait for that video!!! Interested in your thoughts about the height of the fin above the platform...?

I love how everyone is prototyping with wood after I got flamed for it in the beginning :whistle::biggrin:

Edited by Ndawg12
  • Like 1
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I can possibly see a need for 2 "pins" through the surf deck, and that is in case you ever need to stop and have to put the boat in reverse for some reason. Don't want the wood twisting and pressing against the fiberglass.

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I wondered the same thing so I put it through some tests. I think if I make it out of anything tougher than wood I'll allow for a soft contact point against the gel coat. Something synthetic that won't scratch the gel. I really didn't get any more movement out of the mount in hard reverse than I did in forward. The side of the bracket spreads the load equally forward and back from the one pin I have. Of course I'd probably do two pins as well in the end if for no other reason that if a pin fails, and the majority of the apparatus isn't made of wood, then I want a backup pin to hold it from sinking to the bottom. :)

I can possibly see a need for 2 "pins" through the surf deck, and that is in case you ever need to stop and have to put the boat in reverse for some reason. Don't want the wood twisting and pressing against the fiberglass.

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