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Name this tower..


tgcbi

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I'm quite sure it's a Skylon Tuna. The side connection points on the T3 only had round tubes whereas this one has flat rectangular pieces interconnecting the front and rear portions of the tower.

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Now that you know what it is there are two ways to eliminate creaks:

1) Tighten, change, reconfigure the clamp or connection point to eliminate movement. Obviously this is the best if you can do it.

2) Lubricate the problem area. It will still move, just won't make as much noise.

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Now that you know what it is there are two ways to eliminate creaks:

1) Tighten, change, reconfigure the clamp or connection point to eliminate movement. Obviously this is the best if you can do it.

2) Lubricate the problem area. It will still move, just won't make as much noise.

You could take it to a shop and have the joints welded too. Obviously not welding the pivot ones for fold down, but anything else.

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You could take it to a shop and have the joints welded too. Obviously not welding the pivot ones for fold down, but anything else.

Agreed. I did this to mine in the off season, and my tower is MUCH more sturdy.

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Most any aftermarket tower installation I've seen/done used wood & aluminum backing plates, plus big fender washers, under the gunnels on each feet. The idea being that the wood is soft & will conform to the rounded surface of the gunnels. The Aluminum spreads the load over a wider surface area. And the washer keep the nuts/bolts from pulling thru.

Have you looked underneath the feet to see whats in there now? Are they tight?

So are you thinking that it's the hinge points that are being noisy? Is there actually room in there for much of a washer/bushing?

I've seen a few aftermarket towers welded up & strength was definitely improved.

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to be honest i havent really checked how tight the feet are , the gell coat is lightly cracked around all four feet though... was like that when i bought it ... the noise IS coming from the hinge points ... they are as tight as a nuns nasty but i was thinking i could get a really thin (like 1-2mm ) polly washers in there so it will shut the f up ..

i dont want to weld it all up , the tower has just been painted (previous owner ) and looks good ... but i am thinking i may have to change it out for a titan or something if i cant make it work...

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The Titan is going to be a LOT stronger & more stable. No doubt about that. Especially if you stack a lot of speakers & gear on your tower & then drive thru rough water conditions.

The poly washers idea sounds like it could work. Never had to try it myself. But it's a lot less cash than buying a new tower so maybe it would be a good try this summer. Then if it doesn't fix it, upgrade the tower over the winter?

The cracks in the gelcoat aren't really uncommon on aftermarket tower installs. Even happens on factory installs. I always wonder why no one bothered to use top plates on a tower. A cool oval shaped, top plate could be made out of billet aluminum or carbon fiber & would help spread the load over a larger surface area. And in your case, cover up the cracks & reinforce the fiberglass.

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martinarcher

to be honest i havent really checked how tight the feet are , the gell coat is lightly cracked around all four feet though... was like that when i bought it ... the noise IS coming from the hinge points ... they are as tight as a nuns nasty but i was thinking i could get a really thin (like 1-2mm ) polly washers in there so it will shut the f up ..

i dont want to weld it all up , the tower has just been painted (previous owner ) and looks good ... but i am thinking i may have to change it out for a titan or something if i cant make it work...

That's the best solution I've seen in this thread yet. :) Of course if you can fix it a cheaper way, all the better.

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alright then , poly wasers it is .. watch this space... (and by the way ill have my mate make up some polished stainless steel "cover plates" to spread the load and cover those sh!tty cracks!!!

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