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amp power for 2 JL13w6 subs


craig3972

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where do i get the sine wave reference CD signal to test the voltage? what do others use?

You can download the test tones at Realmofexcursion.com. 100hz for interiors or towers and 50hz for subs are the common ones used.

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I ended up picking up a SMD DD-1. It is a little device that detects distortion. Makes setting your gains pretty darn easy.

It actually came in handy this summer as I did have some issues with my tower amp and had replacements in and out of the boat while the original was getting repaired.

Check it out...You can quickly find the distortion points on the H/U, EQ and each amp within a couple minutes.

http://www.wccaraudio.com/smd-distortion-detector-dd-1.html

This tool works!!

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That tool has caused a bunch of burned leads...

Somewhat of a misnomer on detecting distortion as well since it is only using a single harmonic.

Of course there are weaknesses in all methods of gain setting, but mostly due to the variance in the recordings you are playing back. Better than nothing in particular for those who just crank the gain and put their amps into a thermal nightmare.

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I usually gain up from zero, till I hear the hiss, then back it off slightly till it's just unrecognizable... Usually lands me in the 3-5 of 10 on the gain.

Any issues with doing it that way? Head unit has no impact on that at all.

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Well, I never checked voltage and always did by ear. UNTIL I blew my sub 3 months ago and realized I was playing it WAY over specs. It sounded great with no distortion. So now I plan to always check voltage especially since its so easy to do.

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When tuning I can go by a number of cues, mainly audible cues, and never risk over-driving a speaker. But, I have a very small tolerance for distortion and compression. And, you have to absolutely trust those maximum numeric settings when you are running across the water with significant competing noise radiation or at the end of the day when your auditory system is tramatized and you are no longer a good judge.

Certainly using a voltage reading is a great and safe place to begin. But keep in mind that you still have to balance the cockpit to the bow or compensate for positional dis/advantages plus balance the broad range to the subwoofer. You can't just set everything to the maximum permissable voltage. At some point you have to follow a prescribed sequence and transition to 'by ear'.

David

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When tuning I can go by a number of cues, mainly audible cues, and never risk over-driving a speaker. But, I have a very small tolerance for distortion and compression. And, you have to absolutely trust those maximum numeric settings when you are running across the water with significant competing noise radiation or at the end of the day when your auditory system is tramatized and you are no longer a good judge.

Certainly using a voltage reading is a great and safe place to begin. But keep in mind that you still have to balance the cockpit to the bow or compensate for positional dis/advantages plus balance the broad range to the subwoofer. You can't just set everything to the maximum permissable voltage. At some point you have to follow a prescribed sequence and transition to 'by ear'.

Dave - I am going to bring the boat back in August and let your guys do complete re-tune. With my amp issues I have had with My Arc's, I would feel more comfortable with the Pro's takeing a look at everything again.

David

Sounds like I may need to come and see you guys again Dave a let your Boys re-tune my system. I do get what you guys are saying about the tool tuning everything to the max and that may not be the best case!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Put in the extra amp and it worked great. No more over heating issues, stereo at full for 6hrs. didnt drain the battery either. Interesting - the HD1200/1 gets warmer than MHD750/1 running at the same voltage.

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