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Steering Cable


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I just received a cable from Peter @ smoothwatersports.com for the same boat. I believe the one that I got was 19'. This is a rack cable because I'm upgrading to rack and pinion steering. I would assume that the rotary cable would be the same length though.

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The model # and length of the cable is melted into the casing at the rudder end of the cable. Something along the lines of SSC13415-18...18 being the length. Best to get the number right off of the cable to be sure.

Got mine for boatfix.com.

Edited by NorCaliBu
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Just looked up the receipt in Email: TELEFLEX SSC13419

cant garuntee the same one for your boat.

Grab a flashlight and follow the cable from the steering wheel, the number should be printed within the first 18 inches.

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I replaced the cable on my sporty last year. I got it from skidim, I think it was a 14 or15 foot

and it worked great. The easiest thing to do is call Richard @ skidim. He can tell you everything

you will need to know to get the proper cable.

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...Morse 304411-204IN 7377. Not sure what that means...

Morse and Teleflex are the two largest manufacturers of steering systems for the marine industry. You obviously have a Morse brand system. The cables are not interchangeable, you need a Morse cable.

304411 is the model number. 204IN is the length...204 inches = 17 feet. :) The 7377 is just a batch number that means nothing to you. It is so they can trace a "batch" of cable if some sort of problem occurs...of course, it's been 15 years since I left the marine industry so this is all from memory. Biggrin.gif

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Well, after doing a little googling...It appears that in my absence from the marine industry Teleflex has purchased Morse and integrated the two product lines. It appears that you will need to call boatfix.com, skidim, go2marine,...or any other Teleflax distributor and get a cross reference number. Good luck.

Edit: iboats.com has an 18 footer...

Edited by NorCaliBu
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I just received a cable from Peter @ smoothwatersports.com for the same boat. I believe the one that I got was 19'. This is a rack cable because I'm upgrading to rack and pinion steering. I would assume that the rotary cable would be the same length though.

I was curious if this could be done. I need to change my cable and my old helm seems to be popping. The r&p kit is the same price. What all is involved in this switch. I am very interested.

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Mike:

Thanks. That's good info to have. I've called skidim but they have not called me back yet. The iboatfix people couldn't give me a pointer on their site to the part, and I didn't want to get the wrong thing and have to send it back. I trust skidim to get it correct.

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The iboatfix people couldn't give me a pointer on their site to the part...

Ya, Skidim is good. I don't understand the statement above though. (???) Did you see the note at the bottom of the iboat page linked above?

Replacement for Morse Cable Nos.: 300962, 304411, 304415.

Isn't that your #?

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SLDavis,

From what Peter told me, It's plug and play, direct swap. I haven't gotten into that part of it yet. Right now I have my rudder and gas tank out for trimmable rudder, wedge plate, stainless exhaust tips. I'll post to let you know how the R&P upgrade goes.

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  • 4 years later...

Fixing Push/Pull Morse type marine control cables: After reading a bunch of posts on this subject I refused to buy into the “replace it for $250 in parts or $600+++ to your local marine shop”, type answer. I knew there must be a way to free up old gummed up marine cable lube without being able to disassemble the cable assembly. My boat is a run of the mill tournament Ski Brendella with an original equipment Morse E304411 cable assembly. With my 17 yo son on the wrenches we pulled out the steering gear cable in about 20 minutes. Then I spent half an hour or more surfing the DYI web on how to “Fix” and not spend a boat load of money on a simple lubrication issue. Here is the simple answer! I fitted 6 inches of ¾ inch heater hose over the rudder end of the cable and sealed it with a hose clamp. I then hung this from my 2nd story balcony. I then put a funnel on the upper side of the heater hose and hose clamped this as well. Within a few minutes of rigging all this I notice a small amount of water draining from the lower end of the cable (good thing!) I then poured about 3 or 4 ounces of kerosene into the funnel. Initially with all my strength I could only slowly move the cable. After about 5 minutes of allowing a small amount of the kerosene to work its way into the housing the cable was 50% easier to move and in 10 minutes of adding a bit more kerosene the cable was working like new. My plan is to allow the kerosene to run it’s course and drain from the cable and then pour in a yet to be determined new lube and let it lube up the cleaned and un-gummed housing. Total investment of time will be a few hours and $10 or $15 dollars, Max! KGBISME [email protected] Clyde California

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  • 8 months later...

Fixing Push/Pull Morse type marine control cables: After reading a bunch of posts on this subject I refused to buy into the “replace it for $250 in parts or $600+++ to your local marine shop”, type answer. I knew there must be a way to free up old gummed up marine cable lube without being able to disassemble the cable assembly. My boat is a run of the mill tournament Ski Brendella with an original equipment Morse E304411 cable assembly. With my 17 yo son on the wrenches we pulled out the steering gear cable in about 20 minutes. Then I spent half an hour or more surfing the DYI web on how to “Fix” and not spend a boat load of money on a simple lubrication issue. Here is the simple answer! I fitted 6 inches of ¾ inch heater hose over the rudder end of the cable and sealed it with a hose clamp. I then hung this from my 2nd story balcony. I then put a funnel on the upper side of the heater hose and hose clamped this as well. Within a few minutes of rigging all this I notice a small amount of water draining from the lower end of the cable (good thing!) I then poured about 3 or 4 ounces of kerosene into the funnel. Initially with all my strength I could only slowly move the cable. After about 5 minutes of allowing a small amount of the kerosene to work its way into the housing the cable was 50% easier to move and in 10 minutes of adding a bit more kerosene the cable was working like new. My plan is to allow the kerosene to run it’s course and drain from the cable and then pour in a yet to be determined new lube and let it lube up the cleaned and un-gummed housing. Total investment of time will be a few hours and $10 or $15 dollars, Max! KGBISME [email protected] Clyde California

I think I might give this a try... after pulling out my boat today that has been sitting for about two years.... it's frozen stiff....

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