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Alternator Output


vette-ski

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I've got a Monsoon 325 engine, 2001 model year. I'm working on a dual battery setup with isolator. I need to know minimum amp rating (output of alternator) to properly size the isolator. It's probably marked somewhere on the alternator, but unfortunately my boat is off in storage and I won't see it for a couple months. Anybody know off the top of their head what amp ratings were used for alternators? I know as far as the isolator is concerned, bigger is better, but it's not necessary to oversize and just adds cost and size.

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Some time back when I was inquiring about the output of mine it seems like it was 70 amps. I have the same year and engine. I remember Caleb upgraded in his old boat because he wanted the 100 amp one.

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I'm pretty sure my (early)04 is a 70amp.

I think its the 65-70amp Alt. The better question is, are you going to up your alt to a high output one in the future? If so then buy the Isolator to fit your up grade. I have the 120 amp Isolator at this time. Plus with having a over rated Isolator you will not have to worry about over heating/loading it.

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Anyone have a good reference to a good 100 Amp or so. Mine is having a hard time keeping up with the stereo during runs. Surprised.gif

This link was posted a couple of months ago: ZENA inc.

I have not purchased from them but plan to when my Alternator goes out.

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  • 1 month later...

Digging up an old post to answer my own question. I have the boat out of storage now and a sticker on the alternator says 51 amps. So Pete gets the award for being the closest.

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Yeee Hawww,

Sometime soon, I'm going to be re-installing an alternator I took out of a guy's 04 WS VLX. I didn't test the output before I pulled it out but, I will once he has the output upped. We'll see what the REAL WORLD says.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here's my update. (04 WS VLX)

I put the super-charged alternator back in today. The original marking slated it for 70 amps. Like I said, I didn't test it before I pulled it out.

The guy sent it to be re-wound for ~$230 (ouch) (but, he's running three amps) I installed it today, ran the engine up to 3K rpms and loaded the batt. to 130 amps., the alternator output was 134-137 amps at peak. Nice.

I also insisted that we piggy-back an additional wire from the alt. B+ to the starter B+. So, I ran a 5 AWG wire under the motor along the harness for the bilge to the starter.

EDIT: I forgot to mention that the pulley on the alternator was replaced at the shop to a smaller diameter. This makes the alt. spin faster at whatever engine speed. It also put additional slack in the belt but, I could still get the original belt good and tight.

Edited by Pistol Pete
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I also insisted that we piggy-back an additional wire from the alt. B+ to the starter B+. So, I ran a 5 AWG wire under the motor along the harness for the bilge to the starter.

5 Gauge wire is an odd size, are you sure?

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Anyone have a good reference to a good 100 Amp or so. Mine is having a hard time keeping up with the stereo during runs. Surprised.gif

Here is a link to a unit I bought a couple years ago http://www.wagnerproducts.com/alternator.htm

The list price is $398.00 but I talked to the owner and he sold it to me for approx $175. (real nice guy)

The unit is a true marine alternator and puts out 94 amps at 1500rpm. I'm running 2 optimas and 3 amps at approx 2200 watts and have had no problems keeping my batteries charged with this unit.

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5 Gauge wire is an odd size, are you sure?

Yeah,

I'm sure, Mike.

You don't wanna know.

I told the guy to get 4 ga. and he said he couldn't get it. He went to Home D and got 10 ga. house wire. I doubled it up into two seperate strands/runs and called it 5 ga. Crazy.gif

I wish I had know he hadn't got the right stuff, I would have brought some with me but, I didn't. Heck, I had to stop at OSH and buy some solder becasue I forgot to bring some with me. Now, I have like 3 full rolls. :)

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..... ran the engine up to 3K rpms and loaded the batt. to 130 amps., the alternator output was 134-137 amps at peak. Nice.

Hey Pete,

What do you use to measure that kind of current? I have been looking around but have not found any test equipment that I am willing to shell out my own $$$ for. Most have been cheezy Inductive clamps that I don't have much faith in.

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'Dog,

I have a inductive clamp meter but it feeds a mV signal to my Snap-on Vantage. Basically, you could connect it to any mulitmeter that reads mV. This thing is super accurate, in fact, I'm trying to talk my self into buying a low current model to have also but, $200 is a little too much right now.

One clamp

Another clamp

The clamp I'd like to buy

vantage they don't seem to sell the regular model vantage just this Pro model now. These things are great. It's actually a dual trace oscilloscope and the chip in it has diagnostics for all sorts of cars. Like we discussed earlier. Sorry, it probably won't help you Karman Ghia. You can find these vantages all over ebay.

BTW, you'll be interested to know I just got a 'winky blinky' for reading boat codes. Shocking.gif

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....I have a inductive clamp meter but it feeds a mV signal to my Snap-on Vantage.

...BTW, you'll be interested to know I just got a 'winky blinky' for reading boat codes. Shocking.gif

That Vantage is really a nice tool. I will have to keep an eye out for one one eBay.

Did you buy the code reader from Rinda? They seem to have the best price. I tried to get Ski Dim to match their price but they said they could not.

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Yeah,

That new Pro model seems really cool. Color screen and massive amouts of screen shot storage. It's waaaay updated from the older model I have.

Sorry, I went with Ski Dim on the blinky. I bought about $500 in parts and cashed in on the 10% off.

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