Trailer Bunk

[Boomer]

Checked Overtons for the liquid bunk rollers. Yeah it's on sale for $3, but $6 shipping, lol. Out of principal alone I won't order something where shipping is 2x the part cost!

[Sunsetter95]

I bought some grey I/O carpet from Home Depot, 2x6 pressure treated wood, SS carriage bolts, some I/O glues, SS staples, and then I used some of the galvanized roofing nails with the metal plate on them down the middle going through all of the layers. I Doubled the carpet and wrapped it around the ends. It's been perfect for 2 years now.

I measured the trailer with the boat on it and double checked it. Fabricated the bunks, then installed them in about 30 min at the ramp parking lot while my son waited around the ramp area. I borrowed a pair of bolt cutters in case a bolt was frozen, which one was, so I used the leverage of the bunk to pull the bolt through the board, then cut it off.

Piece of cake!

[doughickey]

To Jack and Hank.

I'm slipping. Yes...only 1 extinguisher in the BU.... and yes, behind the driver. None in the truck. Oh no.

I'm letting you guys down.

[wakechick3]

does that wood need to be pressure treated???? I would think they would last longer if so.

not to change the subject-yet still trailers- has anyone had any problems with thier trailers dragging on sloped driveways???

I have quite a steep driveway. The adjustable hitch helped me fix the problem. Adjusts up/down several inches. I put in the "down" position for exiting the driveway (raises the rear of the trailer). You can then use your front trailer wheel jack to raise the front of the trailer for highway use.

You'll see the adjustable hitch on my (front) trailer hitch. (Yes, at my summer place I also have quite a curvey windy trail to the water. Having the boat in front of me helps in the visibility.

yeah!!!! no problems going up the driveway!!! the huz was soo relieved!

[Kaiboywakesurfers]

Ive been reading through some of these threads in regards to replacing bunks. I planned on replacing mine this off-season. Should I use treated wood? or standard wood? There seems to be a debate that treated wood won't buy you much more time. Ive even though about wrapping the wood in fiberglass, but worry about the bolt hole leaking and the wood rotting from the inside out. Any thoughts?

[wdr]

The only reason I used PTL is that it seems to retain less water after I pull the boat out. I did go over board and used a lot of marine grade adhesive to attach the new carpet. This may be helping to repell the water and not necessarily the PTL. Bottom line is it is trailer not the space shuttle. You should worry more about the tires and electrical instead of to PTL or not to PTL.

[Baddog]

Most have said that it is critical to use SS staples when re-carpeting. I did not last time becasue I couldn't find them and it seems that the seel staples disintegrate about the same time as the carpet is in need of replacing again.

[happypappy]

Doug Fir for the bunks, and they will last as long as the carpet itself.

And either Lowes and Home Depot for the carpeting, just like baddog, and you'll have enough left over to do all your friends' bunks. Since you'll be the resident pro.

And to fiberglas the bunks seems a bit AR (anal retentive) and a waste of time and money. You'll still have to deal with hundreds of minute penetrations (staples) and several big ones (bolts) where the water damage will occur.

Edited October 18, 2013 by happypappy

[Levi900RR]

I gotta re-carpet the bunks on my lift...

[Ndawg12]

wood will get wet, expand and blow out the FG, don't ask how I know.

[jwl019]

wood will get wet, expand and blow out the FG, don't ask how I know.

Got any pics of that?! Would love to see the fiberglass job, just for reference of course lol!

[Ndawg12]

Got any pics of that?! Would love to see the fiberglass job, just for reference of course lol!

If you can find the thread about my platform then enjoy the read, I don't plan on reliving it

[Michigan boarder]

In 2009 I redid my trailer and used the same wood, with new carpet and SS staples. I spun the bunks 180 degrees and flipped them over. So I now had fresh wood to use for securing them to the trailer, since the bolt holes no longer matched up.

[NCVride]

Have 2 bolts out of one of my bunks.....you guys just putting short fat lag bolts in? What size? Boat is on the lift, but bringing it home for the winter in a few weeks and may not be back up before I bring it home to check what kind of bolts I need.

[happypappy]

Have 2 bolts out of one of my bunks.....you guys just putting short fat lag bolts in? What size? Boat is on the lift, but bringing it home for the winter in a few weeks and may not be back up before I bring it home to check what kind of bolts I need.

I use carriage bolts, Make sure you counter sink them so they are flush or below the top plane/suface of the wood. You don't want the carriage bolt head scraping and gouging the bottom of your boat.

Edited October 18, 2013 by happypappy

[Michigan boarder]

I used galvanized lag screws. I had a box of them from in the garage, not even sure where they came from. After 2 years I checked them and most were loose, a couple of them would not tighten any further, stripped on the inside. So, if I were to do it again, I would use galvanized carriage bolts, like happypappy said. You can cut a small slit in the carpet to countersink and install from the top since your trailer is empty. If you keep the slit small the carpet will lay right back over the countersunk bolt, no problem.