Trailer Bunk

[RTS]

I have a gouge in one of my bunks, not nearly as bad as the one pictured thankfully, and I had thought about carpeting new bunks and switching them out at the lake. The problem is that my bunks are curved. How do you deal with that?

Daniel

I would imagine that all bunks start life as straight lumber, and as you attach them to the mounting points on the trailer, they'll "curve" as the trailer manufacturer intended...

[mlange]

Gordo,

That won't necessarily work on all trailers. I redid my bunks last year and they actually attach to the trailer with carriage bolts that are inset into the wood.

Mike

Edited February 13, 2006 by mlange

[wakechick3]

does that wood need to be pressure treated???? I would think they would last longer if so.

not to change the subject-yet still trailers- has anyone had any problems with thier trailers dragging on sloped driveways???

[WakeGirl]

You can use pressure treat, but you'll find that it won't buy you that much extra time. As for dragging, are you talking about the prop cage?

[wakechick3]

yes, since i dont have my boat yet, im not sure its gonna happen, but just thinking ahead if it does! have you come across this before??

[jetskipro550]

Our DHM trailer used to drag like a mother, now it has a 2" lift.

[wakechick3]

okay what a 2" lift???

[jetskipro550]

we lifted the trailer 2" higher using steal blocks that we bought from our trailer manufacture. If you don't have the boat yet, don't worry about this problem. DHM's are just really low and as far as I know no 2006's are sitting on DHM trailers.

[WakeGirl]

You probably won't have a problem unless you get a lowrider option on the trailer. We went standard on ours & there's plenty of clearance. The one trailer that we've owned that had the lowrider setup always drug on everything & we haven't even considered it since. The lowrider makes it easier to get in & out of the boat when it's on the trailer & of course it looks really cool, but it makes it a pain when towing. You have to be a lot more aware going in & out of driveways. Of course, if you do opt for that option, then you can get the prop cage rollers that will help.

[hyperlitenerd]

Does anyone know if extreme trailers you can just bolt on another bunk or if you need a threaded hole?

[NorCaliBu]

Does anyone know if extreme trailers you can just bolt on another bunk or if you need a threaded hole?

Just use hot glue...

j/k...The bunks are sufficient to hold the load. You don't need to add more. You would need to weld "legs" on to the trailer to support the bunks (and then you'd have to repaint the trailer too). Look at your pic, you can see the support legs that the bunks are on top of.

[hyperlitenerd]

Does anyone know if extreme trailers you can just bolt on another bunk or if you need a threaded hole?

Just use hot glue...

j/k...The bunks are sufficient to hold the load. You don't need to add more. You would need to weld "legs" on to the trailer to support the bunks (and then you'd have to repaint the trailer too). Look at your pic, you can see the support legs that the bunks are on top of.

No I was asking if anyone knows how the holes are on the bottom of the bunk. If it is just barewood and just dig into it, or if it has a metal fitting that has threads to take it in and out.

[NorCaliBu]

When you wrote "another" I read "additional" instead of "new".

Look underneath the bunk. If you see a hex head then it is on with lag bolts. If you see a nut and a threaded shaft then it is on with carriage bolts. Through bolted with carriage bolts would be better than lags.

Edited February 14, 2006 by NorCaliBu

[hyperlitenerd]

The boat is in milpitas... I might go up there one day... but if someone has theirs at home and wants to get check... that be great!

[Faceplant409]

Nerd- they use SST carraige bolts (through bolts) and then a dab of silicone on the threads behind the nut to keep them from loosening. (Aero -nylon insert- nuts would be tough as you can't hold the bolt very well if you prefab the whole thing.)

Here's how it should go: get a pressure treated 2X4 the right length, measure (carefully) the locations of the bolts (making sure to actually hold the tape with the curvature of the board-it will affect actual measurement-), Counter sink the head of the bolts so head is +/- 1/4" below the surface (5/8-3/4" deep should do it) you'll need a drill bit a little bigger than the bolt head. drill the countersink first. Then drill the through hole. If it's a 1/4" bolt, drill a 1/4" hole. Tight is good in this case. Drive the bolt in and sink the square shank into the wood, it will help you tighten the bolt later. carpet the bunk, using SST staples.

PM me if you have any questions.

Pat

[gooddog]

get a pressure treated 2X4 the right length,

Better check...all of my bunks are 2x6

[Baddog]

Have to agree, looks like it was hit. If your Dad is a DIY, then just put the boat in the water and replace the boards with carpet. I have to redo my bunks this yr, I'm just going to make new one's. Then When I head down to McClure I'm going to switch them out while the boat is in the water. Did I see some one post that you can get the carpet at Home Depot?

Liquid rollers works great. WARNING:- DO NOT UNSTRAP THE BOW ON THE LAUNCH RAMP. The boat can and will slide off the trailer.

I bought the bunk carpet from Overtons for alot of money for a couple of bunks then I realized i should replace all of them and found a remnant at Lowes (like 8' x 10') for $5. I now have a lifetime supply of bunk carpet.

Has anyone ever put two layers on for added cushioning? I'm thinking of doing that next time.

[Gordo]

Yes, you can easily put the new carpet over the old. Just be sure and get long enough ss/monel staples (boy, are they expensive!) to go through two layers.

[D-GOOSE]

Have to agree, looks like it was hit. If your Dad is a DIY, then just put the boat in the water and replace the boards with carpet. I have to redo my bunks this yr, I'm just going to make new one's. Then When I head down to McClure I'm going to switch them out while the boat is in the water. Did I see some one post that you can get the carpet at Home Depot?

Liquid rollers works great. WARNING:- DO NOT UNSTRAP THE BOW ON THE LAUNCH RAMP. The boat can and will slide off the trailer.

I bought the bunk carpet from Overtons for alot of money for a couple of bunks then I realized i should replace all of them and found a remnant at Lowes (like 8' x 10') for $5. I now have a lifetime supply of bunk carpet.

Has anyone ever put two layers on for added cushioning? I'm thinking of doing that next time.

Thanks. I'll check into it and when I take the boat off for the first time this yr I will be checking over my bunks and trailer frame/bolts really good.

[Fly]

Looks like you caught it with the fin. I did that years ago (a fair bit worse) on a really windy and rough day loading the boat. Stuff happens - R&R the bunk, not a big deal.

[doughickey]

I have replaced bunks and carpet only once. Fairly easy if you can pre-measure your boards. Then, with the boat off the trailer, you use the old ones as a template for all bolts etc. Glue the bunk carpet to the UPPER side of the wood..... and staple the carpet on the UNDERSIDE. I used 2 X 6's (not 2 X 4's). Pressure treated.

Trailer guy I spoke to suggested that when you wrap the bunk carpet underneath the 2 X 6's that you do NOT wrap around until it touches itself. You should leave some bare wood showing UNDERNEATH. This helps let the wood shed its moisture.

Also, re 2 layers of carpet. I'd suggest that you would also want to glue the 2 layers together.... you don't want the outer layer to get pulled off the under layer when the boat is sliding across the bunks.

Good luck!

[doughickey]

does that wood need to be pressure treated???? I would think they would last longer if so.

not to change the subject-yet still trailers- has anyone had any problems with thier trailers dragging on sloped driveways???

I have quite a steep driveway. The adjustable hitch helped me fix the problem. Adjusts up/down several inches. I put in the "down" position for exiting the driveway (raises the rear of the trailer). You can then use your front trailer wheel jack to raise the front of the trailer for highway use.

You'll see the adjustable hitch on my (front) trailer hitch. (Yes, at my summer place I also have quite a curvey windy trail to the water. Having the boat in front of me helps in the visibility.

[VinRLX]

So, Doug, if you have a hitch in the front and rear of your tow vehicle, do you have a fire extinguisher front and rear as well???

[HRemington]

you mean in addition to the one built into his CO2 fanny pack?

[VinRLX]

Oh, Hank, you may have missed the other thread. I hate to be the one to break it to you and I hope you're sitting down. Doug is lacking in the fire extinguisher redundancy department. His boat only has one--and it's BEHIND the driver's seat.