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yet another EQ install question


svnfightsvn

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I need some advice on wiring up an EQ to an existing stereo.

My boat has 3 amps wired to a separate battery for power, but the power/ground for the head unit is still wired up to the "on" key position. I think I'd like to change this so that the entire system is powered from the house battery. That way I can run the system without having to have the key turned "on" and draining my start battery as well. Good idea?

I have an existing ACC switch on the dash that isn't used for anything so I'd like to try and go there. Can I run one power/ground wire from the battery to this ACC switch and then from there, run the power for BOTH the equalizer and the head unit? If so, how? Can I simply add a 3-way splitter with an inline fuse for the EQ (the head unit already is fused)? Or will I need some type of distribution block?

Also a question on the remote turn on wire...currently the blue remote turn on wire is running from the head unit all the way to the amps. I also need it to run to the EQ. Can I add a 3-way splitter to this under the dash or should I split it under the dash and have a short run to the EQ then run from the EQ to the amps? Either way, I would need to split the current remote turn on wire. The first option requires a 3-way splitter (which I have...like this one: http://img0.fastenal.com/productimages/58502.jpg) and the second option doesn't.

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Instead of a switch why not use your ignition?

Then all you have to do is run the power wire & ground to the battery and you are golden. Sure the ignition sense will still be connected to the rest of the boat, but it will insure that your stereo is off when you shut off the key. That portion draws basically no power as well so it won't hurt anything and saves you the switch.

The remote wire you can split, although with 3 amps & an eq you are starting to get into the realm where using a relay would be better.

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well - the head unit is already running off the ignition. Issue is, all the amps and the (future) EQ are not. I've heard that you want to run all your stereo equipment off the same battery. Plus, when running the head unit off the ignition, I have to have the boat on to run the stereo, thereby running components (like the computer, gauges, pumps, etc), off the one starting battery and the amps off the house battery. I'm no expert, but I can't image that is "basically no power" because its everything except the amps.

I don't mind putting in a relay in the future if I get speaker "pop" when turning on the stereo, but I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. So its no problem splitting the remote turn on wire, or would it be a better idea to run it from the head unit to the EQ and then on to the amps?

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What I did is run my key switch to the HU, amp turn on wire, and EQ turn on wire all to the switch on the dash. The power to the switch comes straight from the battery where the amps, eq and head unit all get their power.

The advantage to that is my stereo does not turn on and off when I turn the boat key on and off. I also have enough power through the amp turn on wire to daisy chain as many items as my wire gauge will allow (given the low amp draw of a turn on wire, I could run 15-20+ amplifiers and not have to worry about a relay).

The only disadvantage is that my stereo stays on for as long as I keep that switch turned on. I don't see myself forgetting to shut it off and killing my batteries. Hasn't happened since I put it that way. Since the switch has a nice bright LED in it, it is hard to not notice that my stereo switch is on. Turning off the stereo at the HU is just something I never do, I just use my nifty dash switch.

SwitchMusicRtSM.jpg

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I need some advice on wiring up an EQ to an existing stereo.

My boat has 3 amps wired to a separate battery for power, but the power/ground for the head unit is still wired up to the "on" key position. I think I'd like to change this so that the entire system is powered from the house battery. That way I can run the system without having to have the key turned "on" and draining my start battery as well. Good idea?

I have an existing ACC switch on the dash that isn't used for anything so I'd like to try and go there. Can I run one power/ground wire from the battery to this ACC switch and then from there, run the power for BOTH the equalizer and the head unit? If so, how? Can I simply add a 3-way splitter with an inline fuse for the EQ (the head unit already is fused)? Or will I need some type of distribution block?

Also a question on the remote turn on wire...currently the blue remote turn on wire is running from the head unit all the way to the amps. I also need it to run to the EQ. Can I add a 3-way splitter to this under the dash or should I split it under the dash and have a short run to the EQ then run from the EQ to the amps? Either way, I would need to split the current remote turn on wire. The first option requires a 3-way splitter (which I have...like this one: http://img0.fastenal...mages/58502.jpg) and the second option doesn't.

There are two things to consider here.1) The ground will not need to be moved to achieve what you are looking to do. It is already connected to the boat's ground system, and should stay there. 2), you head-unit has a yellow MEM wire that needs to be connected to the B+. This is the wire that the head-unit actually draws its load through when the system is on. If you have a dual battery system, and how its configured, will determine whether this wire needs to be wired directly to the stereo battery or to the common post of the battery switch. So this yellow wire may already be where it needs to be.

The only wire you need to relocate in order to what you are seeking, is the head-units red turn-on wire. This is the wire that is currently receiving 12V when the key is either in the "ON" or "ACC" position. Move this wire to your unused ACC switch and you stereo will turn on and off via the switch rather then the key. Now, back to the yellow wire. If its connected to the main starting or the "C" post of the battery switch, the draw of the head unit will still pull from the starting battery or which ever battery you have the switch turned to. I would investigate where it is terminating at and address if needed.

What model EQ do you have? This may determine how you turn it on and how how the amps get triggered. IMO, you need to let the head-unit turn the EQ on.

Edited by MLA
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What I did is run my key switch to the HU, amp turn on wire, and EQ turn on wire all to the switch on the dash. The power to the switch comes straight from the battery where the amps, eq and head unit all get their power.

The advantage to that is my stereo does not turn on and off when I turn the boat key on and off. I also have enough power through the amp turn on wire to daisy chain as many items as my wire gauge will allow (given the low amp draw of a turn on wire, I could run 15-20+ amplifiers and not have to worry about a relay).

The only disadvantage is that my stereo stays on for as long as I keep that switch turned on. I don't see myself forgetting to shut it off and killing my batteries. Hasn't happened since I put it that way. Since the switch has a nice bright LED in it, it is hard to not notice that my stereo switch is on. Turning off the stereo at the HU is just something I never do, I just use my nifty dash switch.

SwitchMusicRtSM.jpg

This is exactly what I'm trying to do. I hope you can clarify a bit on this tho..

What do you mean you ran "my key switch to the HU"? It sounds like your HU is drawing power from the house battery, correct? Is the HU getting power from the ACC switch or from the key "ON" position? Also - how did you run all those wires from the ACC switch? Did you use a splitter?

You also stated that you "have enough power through the amp turn on wire to daisy chain as many items as my wire gauge will allow". Isn't the amp turn on wire the blue remote turn on? Or are you talking about the red power wire? If so, are you running the power directly from your battery or are you daisy chaining it from the amp or a distribution block?

Edited by svnfightsvn
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There are two things to consider here.1) The ground will not need to be moved to achieve what you are looking to do. It is already connected to the boat's ground system, and should stay there. 2), you head-unit has a yellow MEM wire that needs to be connected to the B+. This is the wire that the head-unit actually draws its load through when the system is on. If you have a dual battery system, and how its configured, will determine whether this wire needs to be wired directly to the stereo battery or to the common post of the battery switch. So this yellow wire may already be where it needs to be.

The only wire you need to relocate in order to what you are seeking, is the head-units red turn-on wire. This is the wire that is currently receiving 12V when the key is either in the "ON" or "ACC" position. Move this wire to your unused ACC switch and you stereo will turn on and off via the switch rather then the key. Now, back to the yellow wire. If its connected to the main starting or the "C" post of the battery switch, the draw of the head unit will still pull from the starting battery or which ever battery you have the switch turned to. I would investigate where it is terminating at and address if needed.

What model EQ do you have? This may determine how you turn it on and how how the amps get triggered. IMO, you need to let the head-unit turn the EQ on.

I have a Krypt Marine Audio equalizer...the KMA-4200.

I also have a dual battery bank with a switch and automatic charging relay...the Blue Sea "Add a Battery" setup.

I do want the head unit to turn on the EQ but I don't want the head unit to be powered from the key "On" position like it currently is.

It sounds like I need to run power to the un-used ACC switch (not directly from the battery but from the battery switch..perhaps amp distribution block?). Then from the switch to the head unit 12V. Not sure about the MEM wire...I'll have to investigate that one. In my case, if I want the HU to store stations, etc in memory, should I run its power directly from the battery?

Would my EQ also get power from the ACC switch or should I daisy chain it from the HU? Can I just use a splitter or do I need a small distribution block for this?

Also - what do you think about the remote turn on wire?

I'm just trying to get a sense for where I need to start and end my wires...ground is done already for me it sounds like, but I still have to deal with the power and remote turn on. I'm thinking of daisy chaining the remote turn on wire...running it from the HU to the EQ, then from the EQ to the first amp. From there its already daisy chained to the other amps I think. I'm then thinking of running the power from the battery switch or distro block to the un-used ACC switch. From there, perhaps I can split it and run to the HU and the EQ?

Edited by svnfightsvn
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I have a Krypt Marine Audio equalizer...the KMA-4200.

I also have a dual battery bank with a switch and automatic charging relay...the Blue Sea "Add a Battery" setup.

I do want the head unit to turn on the EQ but I don't want the head unit to be powered from the key "On" position like it currently is.

It sounds like I need to run power to the un-used ACC switch (not directly from the battery but from the battery switch..perhaps amp distribution block?). Then from the switch to the head unit 12V and also possibly the MEM wire...I'll have to investigate that one. In this scenario, would my EQ also get power from this switch or should I daisy chain it from the HU? Can I just use a splitter or do I need a small distribution block for this?

The Krypt EQ needs to have its GND and B+ terminate to the house battery same as the amps and the headunit's GND and yellow MEM wire. This is more important in preventing unwanted noise. ALL the stereo gear needs to share the same battery reference.

The Krypt EQ gets turned on the same as the amps do, and this needs to be by the head-unit's blue remote turn-on wire. With 3 amps and the EQ, I would recomemnd using a relay triggered by the head-unit, thus allowing the relay to carry the load and supply ample current to all the amps and EQ.

With the ACR, all your stereo gear needs to be wired to the house battery. The head-unit should not be powered off the key, put simply receive a 12V turn-on signal from the key. There is a good chance that your unused ACC switch already has B+ to it. If so, you just need to pull the head-units turn on wire off the key switch and move it to the ACC toggle switch. This circuit draws so little current, I would not worry if its drawing from the main starting battery. This circuit will not induce noise into the stereo like if the yellow MEM is not on the same battery.

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The Krypt EQ needs to have its GND and B+ terminate to the house battery same as the amps and the headunit's GND and yellow MEM wire. This is more important in preventing unwanted noise. ALL the stereo gear needs to share the same battery reference.

The Krypt EQ gets turned on the same as the amps do, and this needs to be by the head-unit's blue remote turn-on wire. With 3 amps and the EQ, I would recomemnd using a relay triggered by the head-unit, thus allowing the relay to carry the load and supply ample current to all the amps and EQ.

With the ACR, all your stereo gear needs to be wired to the house battery. The head-unit should not be powered off the key, put simply receive a 12V turn-on signal from the key. There is a good chance that your unused ACC switch already has B+ to it. If so, you just need to pull the head-units turn on wire off the key switch and move it to the ACC toggle switch. This circuit draws so little current, I would not worry if its drawing from the main starting battery. This circuit will not induce noise into the stereo like if the yellow MEM is not on the same battery.

What type of relay should I use? 3 pin? My un-used ACC switch has only the pin connected to a wire...I believe that this is ground, correct? If this is the case, I still need to run a power wire from the battery (common post on battery switch?), to the ACC switch, correct?

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What type of relay should I use? 3 pin? My un-used ACC switch has only the pin connected to a wire...I believe that this is ground, correct? If this is the case, I still need to run a power wire from the battery (common post on battery switch?), to the ACC switch, correct?

Use a typical 5 pin relay with the traditional "Bosch" temrinal numbering.

85 = coil POS from head-unit blue remote turn-on wire

86 = Coil Ground

30 = B+

87 = Out to amps and EQ

87A = not used

For your ACC switch on the dash: it will have a ground if it has a bulb. For its B+, you can grab it from under the helm. No need to go all the way to the battery.

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Use a typical 5 pin relay with the traditional "Bosch" temrinal numbering.

85 = coil POS from head-unit blue remote turn-on wire

86 = Coil Ground

30 = B+

87 = Out to amps and EQ

87A = not used

For your ACC switch on the dash: it will have a ground if it has a bulb. For its B+, you can grab it from under the helm. No need to go all the way to the battery.

Why would I grab it from under the helm? There is no power source from my house battery under the helm...

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Why would I grab it from under the helm? There is no power source from my house battery under the helm...

Its current draw is measured in Ma's (milli-amps). IMO, its not worth running a dedicated fused B+ all the way from the battery to the switch just to trigger the head-unit. Its load is comparable to the memory and the starting battery could carry that load for a month.

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Its current draw is measured in Ma's (milli-amps). IMO, its not worth running a dedicated fused B+ all the way from the battery to the switch just to trigger the head-unit. Its load is comparable to the memory and the starting battery could carry that load for a month.

I'm really confused now...if I grab power from under the helm for the ACC switch and my EQ is going to be powered from the ACC switch, then my EQ is being powered from the starting battery no? This is not what I want...I want the HU and EQ to be drawing power from the house battery...

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I'm really confused now...if I grab power from under the helm for the ACC switch and my EQ is going to be powered from the ACC switch, then my EQ is being powered from the starting battery no? This is not what I want...I want the HU and EQ to be drawing power from the house battery...

The wire we are discussing will not power the EQ in way shape or form. We are only talking about the head-unit's red turn-on trigger. Once the head-unit turns on, it will send 12V out on the blue remote turn-on wire to the trigger the amps and EQ. This Blue remote turn-on circuit is the one that needs to be controlled by a relay due to having 3 amps and an EQ.

As noted above, the actual B+ (may be red) and GND (may be black) that the EQ draws current on, the wires that "power" it, need to be connected to the same battery source as the amps and head-unit. The 3rd wire on the EQ (may be orange), is the EQ's remote turn-on trigger input., just like the amps have.

I hope this clears it up a little. We have two independent circuits that get wired differently.

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The wire we are discussing will not power the EQ in way shape or form. We are only talking about the head-unit's red turn-on trigger. Once the head-unit turns on, it will send 12V out on the blue remote turn-on wire to the trigger the amps and EQ. This Blue remote turn-on circuit is the one that needs to be controlled by a relay due to having 3 amps and an EQ.

As noted above, the actual B+ (may be red) and GND (may be black) that the EQ draws current on, the wires that "power" it, need to be connected to the same battery source as the amps and head-unit. The 3rd wire on the EQ (may be orange), is the EQ's remote turn-on trigger input., just like the amps have.

I hope this clears it up a little. We have two independent circuits that get wired differently.

I'm clear on the remote turn on wire...what I'm not clear on is everything else. Perhaps you can draw me a diagram? Of just the power/ground including the house battery, ACC switch, EQ and HU?

I need to get power to the ACC switch which is only currently grounded. I think it needs to be powered from the house battery. So I guess I need to run a wire from the house battery (tell me if I'm wrong, actually the common terminal on the battery switch) to the ACC switch. From there, I need power to the EQ and HU...I guess just the MEM wire of the HU. To do this, I guess I need to split the wire coming off the accessory prong of the ACC switch and run it to both the EQ and HU. Is this correct?

I guess I can run the ground from the EQ and the HU to the ground terminal under the helm?

What size wire should I be running?

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I dont think any power except the bilge pump (or ALT power) should be directly connected directly to battery. If you connect all stereo to output of your main power switch then you are all set. Why would you need another accessory switch?

I took my remote turn ons , stripped them, and tied them together with a wire nut and used electrical tape. I dont think it really matters unless you have it close to where water can get on it. Unless you want it to look pretty. The benefit is you can undue it and redo the connection endless times without having to cut and re-crimp......

Edited by JoeMama
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Why? Do you think it will fall off? So you use crimp connections on all the head unit (stereo) connections? I only use wire nuts on stereo head end unit (meaning pwr/gnd/remote turn on and that's it). I wrap electrical tape from the wire nut to wires and back to wire nut. Guaranteed not to come off. Do this for power, ground, and remote turn on.

On all the beefy power/GND 2/4 gauge for amps, I do the real thing. Crimp, heat shrink, and bolted. Can't stand the distribution blocks that use screws, much better to bolt. I wish the amps vendors had better ways than screwing and using allen keys.

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Wire nuts aren't good for small stranded highly flexible wire. There are standards for marine electrical terminations and wire nuts don't meet that criteria. Anything will work for a short time. Just because its not 0/2 power wire doesn't mean it can't start fire.

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Nothing, absolutely nothing should be secured with a wire nut in a boat.

I'd agree. Wire nuts are for solid core cable.

Stranded should be crimped, bolted or soldered. I used absolutely no crimps in my boat. Been there and done the stupid troubleshooting over other people's messes too many times. Obviously most of it operator error, but with the limited days you get to use the boat the last thing I want is to lose part of one doing something I shouldn't have to do. Soldering and shrink tubing is almost as fast and shouldn't ever fail.

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I'm clear on the remote turn on wire...what I'm not clear on is everything else. Perhaps you can draw me a diagram? Of just the power/ground including the house battery, ACC switch, EQ and HU?

I need to get power to the ACC switch which is only currently grounded. I think it needs to be powered from the house battery. So I guess I need to run a wire from the house battery (tell me if I'm wrong, actually the common terminal on the battery switch) to the ACC switch. From there, I need power to the EQ and HU...I guess just the MEM wire of the HU. To do this, I guess I need to split the wire coming off the accessory prong of the ACC switch and run it to both the EQ and HU. Is this correct?

I guess I can run the ground from the EQ and the HU to the ground terminal under the helm?

What size wire should I be running?

I think you will run into less trouble if you get the power and grounds for everything in the stereo system from the exact same spot. Many guys plug the HU, and EQ grounds into the amp distribution blocks. That is a very reasonable solution. I personally would run a live ground and power wire from the distribution blocks into the ACC switch as well. Then run the turn on wires for the amps, the EQ and the keyed ignition switch for the HU all into the ACC switch you are talking about. I think it is less likely you will get noise from the turn on wire (like MLA says), so it might be OK to just get that from the power source under the helm...but since you are running wire from the HU and EQ to the amp source, run 1 more pair for the switch just so that you eliminate it as a source if you do get a problem. It makes sense to just get all of the system components grounded and powered from the exact same location.

The HU and EQ really don't draw a ton of power, but since I have loads of 12 gauge wire laying around, I use it. You will probaby find the factory wires are 18 gauge or so, so something smaller would probably be OK. But since you have to run it a little ways to the battery, bigger is better.

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The Krypt EQ needs to have its GND and B+ terminate to the house battery same as the amps and the headunit's GND and yellow MEM wire. This is more important in preventing unwanted noise. ALL the stereo gear needs to share the same battery reference.

What he said.

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I think you will run into less trouble if you get the power and grounds for everything in the stereo system from the exact same spot. Many guys plug the HU, and EQ grounds into the amp distribution blocks. That is a very reasonable solution. I personally would run a live ground and power wire from the distribution blocks into the ACC switch as well. Then run the turn on wires for the amps, the EQ and the keyed ignition switch for the HU all into the ACC switch you are talking about. I think it is less likely you will get noise from the turn on wire (like MLA says), so it might be OK to just get that from the power source under the helm...but since you are running wire from the HU and EQ to the amp source, run 1 more pair for the switch just so that you eliminate it as a source if you do get a problem. It makes sense to just get all of the system components grounded and powered from the exact same location.

The HU and EQ really don't draw a ton of power, but since I have loads of 12 gauge wire laying around, I use it. You will probaby find the factory wires are 18 gauge or so, so something smaller would probably be OK. But since you have to run it a little ways to the battery, bigger is better.

Thanx TallRedRider.

Do you think that 14 AWG wire will work for me? I have like 10 feet of that stuff lying around. If I need 12 AWG, I suppose I could get some.

Another question...like I said, currently the HU is getting power from the key "on" position. The wires for this (and many other things) are all bundled up in a mess under the helm inside a loom and are very difficult to follow. They definitely end up in the HU wire harness tho. Should I cut the power/ground wires at the HU wire harness and then re-run them to the ACC switch?

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14 is more than big enough for power for your headunit. Look at the factory wire, it'll be smaller :) 12 is overkill.

And yes, cut the constant power on and ground and move them. Just make sure to cap the "hot" lead you expose when you do so.

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