Heater Craft hot air heater install

[09vRide]

I decided to install a Heater Craft hot air heater into the boat as a winter project. We have cool mornings and evenings here, and this will be a nice addition that will extend our boating season. I had a lot of questions going into it and I figured if I had the questions, others probably do too. I took a lot of pics of the process in an attempt to help someone else out if they ever wanted to do the project. i should mention that I got some great advice from CedarLakeSkier prior to starting out. A big thanks to him.

This project took approximately 6 hours to do. Total cost was $505.00. It's installed on a 2009 vRide with the LCR engine.

First step that I highly recommend is take out the drivers seat. This will make your job a lot easier. I also plan on installing some 2" spacers for the seat when I re-install it (I don't like how low I sit while driving - even with the bolster up).

Remove subwoofer panel to gain access to bulkhead. This is where the heater box will be mounted.

Run two lengths of 5/8" heater hose from engine compartment through the stringers and exit them at the bulkhead behind the helm. I used a fish tape which made it a lot easier. There are multiple access points along the stringer, and rather than pull the hose in one long pull, I did it in shorter distances. I did one pull from beside the tranny to the floor access between the helm and observers seat, and another from that point to under the helm. Once the fish tape is through, tape the heater hose to the end and pull the fish tape out while feeding in the hose. Two lines are required; one is the supply, one is the return.

Mount the heater box to the bulkhead with the screws provided. I mounted mine with the heater core ports pointing down and with a slight slope down at the ports. This will allow the best drainage when I winterize.

Connect the two 5/8" heater lines to the heater box. Water will flow in either direction through the core, so don't worry about which line connects to which port.

Connect the supply line to the engine at the intake manifold. Locate and remove the 1/2" Brass NPT plug on the top of the manifold. It's located near the the thermostat housing. I opted to install a ball valve at this location so I can shut off the heater circuit should a problem occur. All the fittings are 1/2" NPT and available from your local building supply. Use pipe joint compound on all the fittings to ensure no leaks.

Connect the return line. I opted to use Heater Craft's low RPM 'Y' pipe based on the research I did prior to getting started. Many people claim that running the return line into the main water pick up line improves water flow through the heater core at idle, therby improving heater operation. I installed the Y pipe after the tranny and before the raw water pump. Ensure the 5/8" fitting is pointing towards the water source. This will create a venturi effect and draw water through the heater core.

Wire the switch. Heater Craft supplies a three speed motor with the kit. I wanted the factory look and ordered a three position OEM switch (ON-OFF-ON) and cover. This switch replaced an unused Accessory switch in the switch bank. The three position switch allows only two fan speeds - I went with the High and Medium speeds, and didn't hook up the Low speed. First you need to remove the circuit breaker panel under the throttle control. There are two existing 15A heater circuit breakers which had nothing connected to them. Pick one and connect a hot wire from the circuit breaker to switch hot terminal. Next, run ground wire from fan motor to the ground bus located under the dash. Now run the high speed fan wire to one side of the switch and the medium fan speed wire to the other side of the switch. Lastly, you'll need to ensure the switch ground terminal is connected if you want the switch to light up correctly when you turn the fan on. (The switch ground in my case was already there for an accessory switch that had not been utilized.)

Now you need to run the heater ducts. I installed a three vent unit - two vents were Hot Tube pull out style and the third was a fixed vent. I put one of the hot tubes in the walk-thru to the bow, another hot tube in the starboard cup holder pocket and the fixed vent into the subwoofer panel.

Using a 4" hole saw, cut a hole for the walk thru hot tube. I recommend starting from one side and when the pilot bit comes out the other side, stop, and finish the hole from the other direction. This makes for a nice clean hole. Mount hot tube with included screws.

Repeat this step for the fixed vent in the subwoofer panel - except this hole is only 3" diameter.

I decided to put the last hot tube in the starboard gunwale cup holder pocket. This required that I make a little bulkhead to mount the hot tube too. I made a template out of cardboard and then transferred the template onto 3/4" plywood. Cut a 4" hole to mount the hot tube into the plywood bulkhead. I covered the plywood bulkhead with some plastic heat shrink covering I had in the garage. This made for a nice finished look, although it is hard to see and appreciate given its location.

Run the 3" ducting from heater box to the vent locations and attach with supplied ties from the kit. Reinstall subwoofer panel

Test operation of fan motor. I was pleasantly suprised at the volume of air that comes out of each vent!

Edited April 19, 2012 by 09vRide

[shawndoggy]

Best heater write up I've seen. Great job!

[CedarLakeSkier]

09vRide,

This install looks very familiar

I'm glad my pics and quick write up helped out. I looks very nice. Now get out on the water and use it !!!

[jimncin]

Motivation to go and do mine. Thanks for the write up.

[MalibuAdam]

I'm going to be installing a heater in my 04 23LSV in the next couple of weeks, I went with a 3 vent unit as well and love what you did with the third hot tube. Will be copying you for sure. I see you're from Pitt Meadows, I'm from Langley. Where do you usually take the boat out? Pitt Lake?

[09vRide]

I'm going to be installing a heater in my 04 23LSV in the next couple of weeks, I went with a 3 vent unit as well and love what you did with the third hot tube. Will be copying you for sure. I see you're from Pitt Meadows, I'm from Langley. Where do you usually take the boat out? Pitt Lake?

We hit Pitt Lake for most of our local boating. It's nice and close for us - I can be on the water in 30 min from my driveway. We head up to the Shushwap/Mabel/Okanogan Lake area for a couple weeks in the summer too. Stop by and say Hi if you see us out on Pitt. We're in the all black vRide - It looks gangsta, but we're friendly

Edited April 19, 2012 by 09vRide

[Tchurchill]

Great write up..

What did you use for Seat spacers? and where did you attach them I would like to raise my seat 1-2" as well, Several screws looked like there are hiding in the seat and have to remove carpet or take the seat apart.

[Vettesetter]

Nice, I need a heater I think, where did you get the heater from?

[09vRide]

Nice, I need a heater I think, where did you get the heater from?

I picked up the main heater kit and hoses/fittings from Lordco (Western Marine is the distributor they used). Switch, switch cover and Y pipe came from Bake's Marine.

[09vRide]

Great write up..

What did you use for Seat spacers? and where did you attach them I would like to raise my seat 1-2" as well, Several screws looked like there are hiding in the seat and have to remove carpet or take the seat apart.

I'm using two pieces of 3/4"x2"x7.5" Aluminum along with longer bolts. Once I'm done I'll post up a few pics of that too.

[Phoenix]

Very nice write-up! I ordered my Bu with the heater, but I think I will look at moving one of the vents to starboard side as you did.

Check that, Went and looked last night and that area is right where one of my speakers are mounted. Looking for new ideas on where to relocate one of my vents.

Nice job!

Don

Edited April 20, 2012 by Phoenix

[MalibuAdam]

We hit Pitt Lake for most of our local boating. It's nice and close for us - I can be on the water in 30 min from my driveway. We head up to the Shushwap/Mabel/Okanogan Lake area for a couple weeks in the summer too. Stop by and say Hi if you see us out on Pitt. We're in the all black vRide - It looks gangsta, but we're friendly

I'll keep an eye out for you, I'm in the blue and black 23 LSV

[04 Malibu LXI]

Has anyone tried using a brass tee rather than the plastic y on the heater core line before the raw water pump. I wanted to do quick disconnects on the heater and shower for easy winterization

[CedarLakeSkier]

That "Y" isn't plastic, it's some type of metal.

I did quick disconnects and valves on both sides of the heater core (supply and return) so I could isolate the heater from the engine completely and make it easier for winterization. I'll see if I can find a picture.

[wakenride]

Great write up. Great detail. Thanks

[Byrnsie]

I am replacing the heater in my Rlxi and I've run into a problem with wiring it. The heater was provided by the guy we bought the boat off of and it is a bu oem I believe since he was well connected with the factory in Tennessee and had the tower and wedge installed for us there. The wires coming from the new heater motor have connectors on the end of them and are about 4 inches long. The old heater has no such connectors and appears to be wired directly into the switch panel with full length, uninterrupted wiring. So I was thinking I would just clip the wire right at the connection to the old heater and then use crimp/heat shrink connectors to connect the new wires (I would remove the connectors on the new wires so that they are just raw wire ends). If I do this what gage wire connectors do I need to use? And will this even work? The other option would be just plain electrical tape but that seems a little to basic and half a*s to me. Please let me know if you guys have experience doing this or if there is a better method.

Thanks, Mike

Edited May 4, 2012 by Byrnsie

[Woodski]

The Y is made of stainless. Yes, you can purchase a hard plastic 1.25" pipe with a .5" pipe thread that you can install a brass 5/8" hose fitting, check valve or quick disconect. The Y fitting does provide the smaller orifice and the angled pipe for the heater hose that is difficult to replicate in the brass fittings.

[D-GOOSE]

Great write up and think this should be put in the DIY section.

[09vRide]

Great write up and think this should be put in the DIY section.

Thanks for the compliment. How could this be added to the DIY section?

[Ndawg12]

Agreed, this is great but I keep referring back to this as I'm building my parts list, it'd be nice if it was located in the resources section rather than having to run a search for it. For some reason I can't "follow this topic" either...?

Question though, all fittings for the supply line are 1/2". How is the 1/2" x 1/2" male to barb fitting working with a 5/8" heater hose?

Edit-nevermind, I assume 1/2' is the ID on that fitting.

Edited November 8, 2012 by Ndawg12

[Bill_AirJunky]

A couple of things to add on these heater installs.

We did a new install on my buddies' new 23' Vride last winter. I always thought installing the heater core up under the dash was a stupid place..... if it ever leaks, it can damage your dash electronics & your sub. Plus it's a tight spot to fit it in there so it's tough to fit, tough to work on. We chose to install his core behind the driver's seat, behind the seat cooler, near the rear corner of the main cabin area. Plus we did 2 hot tubes in that same location (at the passengers feet). Plus ran a 3rd hot tub (he chose to run the bigger core with 2 fans) up to the driver's area thru the gunnel. This way he has EASY access to it if he needs it, plus he has more heat available in the rear of the boat for the passengers.

Heatercraft also has a new option available. In addition to the Y adapter, they are adding a small electric water pump to the water hose. It's wired in to your same switch that the fan is on, so it all comes on together. This means the heater is not relying on the water pump to keep the water flow going. So the result is that you have GOOD HEAT at idle speeds..... the Y adapter was an improvement in this area, but this pump is DRAMATIC! And the perk of doing it this way is that you get heat after the engine is cut off for like 5 or 10 minutes. The engine is still hot, and the pump is using that heat to keep it goin!

Edited November 8, 2012 by Bill_AirJunky

[Night Rider]

Do you know if Malabu is using that new pump on the 13s?

[shawndoggy]

doubt it, but it's not a break-the-bank upgrade:

http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/heater-circulator-pump-2.5-gpm-5-8-ports-12v-117090-/4,5493.html

[Flyswatter]

Great write up. I love these types of projects!

[Ndawg12]

I like your idea Bill, I'll have to do some measuring to see if it will fit there along with a hot tube mounted under there. I think I want 2 coming out of the gunnel on the starboard side and 1 mounted on my sub somehow.

Still struggling with the 1/2" vs 5/8" supply fittings to hose... What are the dimensions of this fitting?