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Hot Brake issue


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This weekend I towed down to Norris lake from Cincinnati about 220 miles down and 220 back - on the way down one of my brakes stuck on and my bearing and wheel go so hot it liquified the grease and squirted it out of the bearing buddy - I noticed it about half way down and squirted more grease in. It now sticks for a little while everytime the brake gets hit hard. The wheel got so hot it burned the chrome off and its all black - the bearing buddy and wheel are now rusting after going into the water and sitting 3 days.

A couple questions once i get the brake fixed:

1 - Is my wheel and tire ok after excessive heat?

2 - Should I replace the bearings?

3 - Could the spindle be damaged?

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1) replace wheel

2) replace bearing

3) inspect spindle

Also, replace master cylinder and "shock absorber" in trailer coupler

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Have you ever worked on this kind of stuff before.

The reason I ask is b/c you posted a link to an idler hub, but you mentioned that you have brakes on the trailer. If you are looking to replace the assembly where the brakes locked and did the damage, then you need an hub/drum kit.

And 1750 lb is not what your axle is rated at. I would bet that you have dual 3500lb axles with Series 84 spindles. Do you some research (get the trailer serial number and call the mfgr to find out what you have. Once you find that out, I can point to the right parts for seals, hubs, inner/outer bearings and all the parts needed.

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Have you ever worked on this kind of stuff before.

The reason I ask is b/c you posted a link to an idler hub, but you mentioned that you have brakes on the trailer. If you are looking to replace the assembly where the brakes locked and did the damage, then you need an hub/drum kit.

And 1750 lb is not what your axle is rated at. I would bet that you have dual 3500lb axles with Series 84 spindles. Do you some research (get the trailer serial number and call the mfgr to find out what you have. Once you find that out, I can point to the right parts for seals, hubs, inner/outer bearings and all the parts needed.

Actually depending on what trailer he has, he could have a brake setup that goes over the idler hub. My trailer uses a standard 545 hub like he has shown with rotors that go over those hubs.

Also the 3500lb axles would require 1,750lb idler hubs on each side (1750 x 2 = 3500).

McMiller, are the rotors and hub assembly one piece or can you remove the rotors from the hub?

One piece hub and rotor- http://www.kodiaktrailer.com/index.php?option=com_productbook&func=detail&Itemid=51&id=8

Rotor that goes over idler hub- http://www.kodiaktrailer.com/index.php?option=com_productbook&func=detail&Itemid=51&id=75

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My trailer is at DryDock right now. They've been good to work with, reasonable for costs and are the local certified warranty dealer for UFP - in tongue actuators . You'll need to also find out what's making your brakes 'stick'. Could be pressure from master cylinder or something going on in the brake mechanism itself.

I'm not comfortable messing with brakes, so I let DryDock handle them.

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The wheel, hub, and bearings were no doubt annealed by the heat and need to be replaced. Your spindle was also annealed which softened it and made it susceptable to flexing and rust.

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My trailer is at DryDock right now. They've been good to work with, reasonable for costs and are the local certified warranty dealer for UFP - in tongue actuators . You'll need to also find out what's making your brakes 'stick'. Could be pressure from master cylinder or something going on in the brake mechanism itself.

I'm not comfortable messing with brakes, so I let DryDock handle them.

Thanks for the tip on dry dock - they had all the parts I needed - new one piece rotor/hub, caliper, bearings, seals - I got all back on and bled the brakes - It wasn't that hard - probably only took 2 hours not counting driving around in crappy traffic on 275.

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