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cstk421

New Install In Progress And Some ?'s

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cstk421

So I ripped out all the old cabling from the factory and from the 1 owner before me. What a PITA that was ! So after all that I ran my new cables for the tower and cabin I got all the old power cables and such out of the way. Oh and trying to just the the fish tape from the starboard side to the port side was impossible, I tried for 2+ hours and gave up. I ran the starboard cable down the same side and brought it over (please comment if you see a real issue with this). I am trying to figure out what some of these cables are if you guys and help me out. My goal is to put the batteries right outside the port storage compartment under the large seat. So I have a feeling I need to extend some of the existing cables to accommodate the new location. I also am going to hopefully get the materials and a plan for the amp mounting board I am putting in the compartment. Any recommendations on how to secure it to the hull ? Thanks all in advance.

This is the photo showing the cables with letter next to them to identify what they are. I will have 2 house batteries and 1 starter battery as I said in front of the opening to the observer compartment.

System going in place.....

4 XM9's powered by Harpoon 1k

6 SX65M's powered by Exile 800.4

1 Exile Xi12D powered by Exile 1500.1

2 Interstate SRM 29's (comment if you think this is not adequate)

Thanks again,

Claudio

http://img41.imagesh...8/dsc04309o.jpg

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dsc04311j.th.jpg

dsc04310e.th.jpg

Edited by cstk421

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my malibu

Your boat looks like mine all disassembled :rockon:

Almost the identical stereo install

only difference is I'm running the big 15 and a 2500.1

in a 06 vlx

The stock wiring was a joke and got to love all the wire ties. :(

With the compound angle of the vertical and horizontal radiuses of the hull, I like to first mount blocks to the interior of the hull so that a mounting panel that large can be leveled. Both HDPE and ABS polymers will accept certain adhesives. Most use a fiberglass-resin-coated birch plywood (of solvent-based construction versus water-based) amplifier mounting panel. The blocks can serve as shims to level and also stand-offs to create a wiring raceway behind the panel if needed with real estate becoming limited frontside with so many components. Plus, you've now got built in drainage behind the panel which eliminates any water trap.

If you cover the mounting panel with matching marine-grade carpet you've got another water barrier with the rubber backing. My favorite adhesives are 3M 8219 fiberglass panel adhesive (perfect for bonding the blocks to the gelcoat/fiberglass hull interior) followed by 8217 universal panel adhesive. Use several coats of 3M spray contact adhesive to mount the carpet .

From what I can see in the picture

A ground for battery #1

B ground from Battery #2 ( all batteries should be connected on the neg side )

C power wire from alt to switch( batteries)

D power from switch to circuit breaker that runs to fuse panel under dash

I also running the same battery setup running two Srm 29 stereo bank and one srm 29 for the house but if I didn't just buy these batteries I would have gone with two 6 volts for the stereo bank :thumbup:

Edited by my malibu

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cstk421

Your boat looks like mine all disassembled :rockon:

Almost the identical stereo install

only difference is I'm running the big 15 and a 2500.1

in a 06 vlx

The stock wiring was a joke and got to love all the wire ties. :(

With the compound angle of the vertical and horizontal radiuses of the hull, I like to first mount blocks to the interior of the hull so that a mounting panel that large can be leveled. Both HDPE and ABS polymers will accept certain adhesives. Most use a fiberglass-resin-coated birch plywood (of solvent-based construction versus water-based) amplifier mounting panel. The blocks can serve as shims to level and also stand-offs to create a wiring raceway behind the panel if needed with real estate becoming limited frontside with so many components. Plus, you've now got built in drainage behind the panel which eliminates any water trap.

If you cover the mounting panel with matching marine-grade carpet you've got another water barrier with the rubber backing. My favorite adhesives are 3M 8219 fiberglass panel adhesive (perfect for bonding the blocks to the gelcoat/fiberglass hull interior) followed by 8217 universal panel adhesive. Use several coats of 3M spray contact adhesive to mount the carpet .

On the batteries cables you will have to shorten the alt to bat cable and add one to get to the main breaker from that location.

Not sure I follow. What kind of blocks do you mean ? How do you mount them to the existing wall ? Adhesive ? I was thinking of a plexi type of board instead of wood that I have to glass or spray. Are the 2 cables going over to the starboard side the main for the house circuit ?

Thanks for the info !

Claudio

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my malibu

Not sure I follow. What kind of blocks do you mean ? How do you mount them to the existing wall ? Adhesive ? I was thinking of a plexi type of board instead of wood that I have to glass or spray. Are the 2 cables going over to the starboard side the main for the house circuit ?

Thanks for the info !

Claudio

mounting blocks for the amp rack you can use birch plywood or HDPE . most likely you will use birch plywood . If use birch ply you will have to coat it will epoxy resin and carpet or paint, etc

drill some shallow holes on the back side of the block will also help the adhesive get a good grip so to speak.

I have heard of some people using liquid nails to glue the blocks but i use 3M 8219 fiberglass panel adhesive

If you use plexi no carpet or coating will be needed but I would mount the amps on spacers for air flow or cut the inside of the plexi out under the amp

I would still use birch ply for the mounting blocks.

A and b are grounds . A looks like house bat and b the stereo but will not matter since the negative side of all the batteries should be connected together

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Bradley Thornton

I have the 29s too but for the starter battery I would look at a high cranking battery and not worry about deep cycle it needs the cranking amps not the res.

Buy a on board charger. All that $ in batteries make them last and now is the time to do it.

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cstk421

Ok I guess I am not asking the right question. These "mounting" blocks are between the amp mounting board and the existing carpeted wall of the compartment. How do I mount the blocks to the carpeted wall ? Also how do I attach the plexi or whatever board I go with to the blocks?

Thanks

Claudio

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Murphy8166

Ok I guess I am not asking the right question. These "mounting" blocks are between the amp mounting board and the existing carpeted wall of the compartment. How do I mount the blocks to the carpeted wall ? Also how do I attach the plexi or whatever board I go with to the blocks?

Thanks

Claudio

Correct, You will want to pull the carpet from the wall and prepare the surface to accept adhesive. If it were me, I sand away the carpet glue, epoxy some epoxy resin wood blocks (3/4") to the hull and put a piece of fiberglass over the block in a cross shape for added durabilty.

Edited by Murphy8166

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CedarLakeSkier

Trying to interpret here, because I have done this.

Your amp mounting board, whatever material it is, will be a flat board. Obviously the hull of the boat is not. One of the easiest solutions is to put some mounting blocks on the hull of the boat to provide a couple of points on the hull that will allow you to mount the amp board.

I used solid composite decking material that I purchased from Menard's. I glued the blocks to the hull with construction adhesive after I pulled back the carpet. If you are mounting in the passenger side compartment, the carpet only goes up so high, you can cut and simply pull the carpet down. You can replace the carpet if you mount, but the amp mounting board will cover it, so no worries if you don't.

After the mounting blocks are there you can just use stainless screws to screw the amp mounting board onto the blocks you've glued to the hull.

The other thing that was recommended is spacers between the amp and the mounting board. This is a good idea if you cover the mounting board in carpet (like I did) because it gives the amp some room to breath. If you don't carpet the mounting board, you probably wouldn't need to do this, but it wouldn't hurt either.

Edit: Murphy beat me to the response, but I'll leave mine here since it is a little different. Always good to have multiple options

Edited by CedarLakeSkier

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cstk421

Now all of it makes sense. I appreciate the info guys. Curious what did you guys do to mount the amps to the board ? Through bolt with nut ? Tapping SS ?

Thanks

Claudio

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augie09

I also did this recently. Check to see if Malibu already pre-installed a mounting board. When I pulled back the carpet in my storage locker there was a 24" 3x2 board attached the hull. Malibu must have put in there regardless of original buyer getting stereo package or not. The top of my amp rack screwed into this, using 5/8" screws. For mounting blocks on the bottom of the amp rack, I did what others have done and cut away sections of carpet and glued composite decking boards to the hull. I did have some fun getting them to stay attached. First tried 2 part epoxy from home depot, complete failure. Then tried 2 part marine epoxy from auto zone, one block broke free. So I then used liquid nails, and no problems. should of used liquid nails from the beginning.

For the amp rack. I used black 1/2" or 3/4" plastic sheet. If you cut out a rectangle behind your amps, smaller of course, you'll have a good place to run wires up and it will give your amp board some flex, making it easier to mount to the curved hull.

I also just remounted my amps because getting to the control knobs was near impossible and I wanted to retune my system after the first season. So keep in mind how easy it will be to access the fuses and controls of the amps after mounting them.

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Deephaven

My LSV came with a mounting board as well.

As for what wire is which, I yanked all the stock wires as they were sorry to say the least.

That being said, what you need is:

1 - ground that runs to the batteries, I personally daisy chained mine but upped the size from 4ga to 2/0. Running separate runs of smaller is also acceptable, but more work IMO.

1 - power wire that connects each battery to the perko switch

1 - power wire from the perko + output to the amplifier

Please make sure to FUSE these wires as close to the source as possible. IE, right by your alternator and right by each of the positive power terminals.

1 - remote turn on wire from your headunit

1 - "set of rca's" I put that in quotes as you will need a pair for each set of channels. Normally this is three pairs, one for the sub, one for the "front" and one for the "rear". My front is the cabin, my rear is the on the tower.

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cstk421

So what I am running into is the height near the front if the compartment. There are 2 hoses thru hull for ballast. They cut down available height. The 3 amps side by side vertical with 1 inch spacing = 34" and unless I recess the first amp toward the back of the boat behind the wall I can't clear the hoses. Did you guys tilt the board to buy height ? Or notch it for the hoses ?

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Murphy8166

mounting blocks for the amp rack you can use birch plywood or HDPE . most likely you will use birch plywood . If use birch ply you will have to coat it will epoxy resin and carpet or paint, etc

drill some shallow holes on the back side of the block will also help the adhesive get a good grip so to speak.

I have heard of some people using liquid nails to glue the blocks but i use 3M 8219 fiberglass panel adhesive

If you use plexi no carpet or coating will be needed but I would mount the amps on spacers for air flow or cut the inside of the plexi out under the amp

I would still use birch ply for the mounting blocks.

A and b are grounds . A looks like house bat and b the stereo but will not matter since the negative side of all the batteries should be connected together

Is there an echo in here?????

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CedarLakeSkier

So what I am running into is the height near the front if the compartment. There are 2 hoses thru hull for ballast. They cut down available height. The 3 amps side by side vertical with 1 inch spacing = 34" and unless I recess the first amp toward the back of the boat behind the wall I can't clear the hoses. Did you guys tilt the board to buy height ? Or notch it for the hoses ?

I know what you mean on the space issue, although I didn't have ballast hoses. What I did was split the amps into two locations. See pic...

post-1563-0-66857500-1332441203_thumb.jp

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Murphy8166

That where i got the info when i did my first install

thought i would past it along since it helped me :crazy:

I tried to respond to your hostile PM - but it was locked and would not allow me to do so.

Sorry if my comment upset you - I was just giving you a hard time.

Just wanted to clear the air!!

Edited by Murphy8166

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my malibu

I tried to respond to your hostile PM - but it was locked and would not allow me to do so.

Sorry if my comment upset you - I was just giving you a hard time.

Just wanted to clear the air!!

Gotta been a bad day

Edited by my malibu

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Murphy8166

Gotta been a bad day

Well tomorrow is Friday - hope it is a better day for ya!

I do have to ask? Did you lock the PM or the Mod's?

Edited by Murphy8166

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my malibu

You don't have to keep track of anything. When you recognize your own writing you just google it. It pops right up.

David

I have learn a lot from you and others

and I'm unsure way I can't post previous info on different threads

I was not trying to seal your words just help another out

Edited by my malibu

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my malibu

Well tomorrow is Friday - hope it is a better day for ya!

I do have to ask? Did you lock the PM or the Mod's?

I did deleted it right after I wrote it then went and sat in the boat with a beer

I feel better

Now what to do with all this wiring

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Murphy8166

I did deleted it right after I wrote it then went and sat in the boat with a beer

I feel better

Now what to do with all this wiring

Understand. Truth be told, that is how I de-stress sometimes. Write it out and don't hit the send button....it works

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my malibu

Understand. Truth be told, that is how I de-stress sometimes. Write it out and don't hit the send button....it works

did you finish the battery tray?

I've been banned from used the house to resin the tray and sub face panel

Having to wait for warmer weather not fun , since it snowed this morning.

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Murphy8166

did you finish the battery tray?

I've been banned from used the house to resin the tray and sub face panel

Having to wait for warmer weather not fun , since it snowed this morning.

I ended up not using that box...going to more of a box that takes up less space. I will post up some pics of it soon.

It sucks waiting for the weather to get to the point where resin and hardener will kick

Edited by Murphy8166

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Murphy8166

We better cool it - I just saw a moderator looking at this thread :innocent: :innocent: :innocent: :innocent: :innocent:

J/K Ronnie

Edited by Murphy8166

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cstk421

Hey came up with another question ! I am planning on picking up 2 SRM29's and dedicate them to the house and use my existing deka group 24 for starting. So the question I have is can I lay the on their side if they dont fit under the observer seat ? Has anyone tried to notch the bottom of the seat ? ( yeah I know crazy) but just wondering. I want my storage compartment back and I hate moving that seat !

Thanks

Claudio

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my malibu

Hey came up with another question ! I am planning on picking up 2 SRM29's and dedicate them to the house and use my existing deka group 24 for starting. So the question I have is can I lay the on their side if they dont fit under the observer seat ? Has anyone tried to notch the bottom of the seat ? ( yeah I know crazy) but just wondering. I want my storage compartment back and I hate moving that seat !

Thanks

Claudio

I have the same problem. The SRm 29 can't be mounted sideways because of vents.

You would need a sealed battery like the optima blue top. I know that those with fit under that seat.

Last year Costco had good deal on the optima , worth a check.

I/m sure there are others.

Since I already have the SRm 29's I choose to mount them in the stock location and make a flat panel to cover all three batteries.

I'm installing the amps under the seat, since I also never remove it.

On notching the seat I say don't do it.

If all else fails you can mount them in the rear hatches on each side of the motor and build a box around them.

I like o6vlx install and having a flat carpeted surface to pile all the bags and girl stuff.

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