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NorrisMike

Vride Lcr Rpm & Top Speed

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NorrisMike

I just purchased an 09 Vride with only 45 hours. We are thrilled. It has the LCR motor with 1235 prop and only 45 hours. I was very impressed with the acceleration even with ballast full. However, I was only able to turn 4800 rpm with a top speed of 35 mph. It seems to me that it should rev a little higher and get a few more mph's.....??? I checked the speed with gps and it was accurate. It's almost like the throttle is not opening up all the way. I was getting some interesting readings with ballast empty and ballast full too. At the beginning of the day I checked where I was at without ballast and here is what I got -

3460 rpm - 26 mph

3050 rpm - 22.5 mph

4800 rpm - 35 mph

and then at the end of the day (3 hours on motor) I checked it with full ballast and here is what I got -

3150 rpm - 26 mph

I should have checked at different speeds but I didn't for some reason. Less rpm with more weight?? Seems backwards to me. It's almost like the boat was loosening up the more I drove it :) Temps were around 155 both times. Could the motor still be breaking in? Is there some kind of adjustment I can make? Or does this sound right? Hopefully someone with a similar setup can chime in.

Thanks in advance - I look forward to browsing this forum as it seems like there is a ton of great info!!

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coyote055

I have the same motor in my '05 Vride with a 537 prop. With full ballast and 8 people it does about 22 mph at just under 3000 RPM and tops out at 44 mph at 4700 rpm. I'm guessing that, depending how your boat was loaded, you may have been running at a more efficient angle (HP moving the boat forward as opposed to lifting it up out of the water).

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REW

:plus1:

I have the same motor in my '05 Vride with a 537 prop. With full ballast and 8 people it does about 22 mph at just under 3000 RPM and tops out at 44 mph at 4700 rpm. I'm guessing that, depending how your boat was loaded, you may have been running at a more efficient angle (HP moving the boat forward as opposed to lifting it up out of the water).

Move weight around while moving and watch the changes. It is real fun while playing with the wake.

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dalt1

Posted @5:19 AM. Too excited to sleep? I was just on the phone with you at midnight. I understand. Welcome to the Crew! We will want to see pics, even though I already have, the rest of TMC will require it. Top speed RPM sounds about right but Mph is too low. If you were closer to me we could swap props and see the differences. I have my stock prop but run an O.J. 475 14.25 LH 14.5 X 1.125" XMP EDGE (.090 CUP) If I remember correctly, I run about 43 MPH @ 5250 RPM WOT. Monsoon not LCR engine though.

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srab

Unlike an I/O or outboard engine, where you can "trim" the out-drive to optimize the efficiency of the prop

thrust in relation to the angle of the hull (don't know if you've ever driven either, but you can actually feel

a significant difference as you adjust the trim), inboards have a fixed out-drive. So, my guess is that the

differences you noticed with and without ballast had to do with different alignment of the direction of prop

thrust in relation to the boats attitude or hull angle.

Are you running at high altitude? Are you going to be using 3000+ lbs of ballast routinely? The Acme 1235

is probably great for either, but it is a very aggressive prop for that engine. Stock prop would be the 537.

"Plus 1" (for running 1000-2000 lbs. ballast) would be the 1579. "Plus 2" (for running 2000-3000 lbs.

ballast) would be the 1273. And, then there is the "Plus 3" option, your 1235. Look here.

If you want more top-end speed, you probably need to prop down to one of the other choices. If you

are not running at high altitude and not routinely running with heavy ballast, you might be happier

with one of the others. You're likely to end up with a top-end speed in the low 40s with a still-acceptable

"hole shot." And, you should be able to achieve and maintain speeds, unless you're really heavily loaded

down, at lower RPMs and using less gasoline.

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NorrisMike

HAHAHA! Not sure why.....but I couldn't sleep for some reason!!!

Thanks for the info! That all makes sense. I won't be running an enormous amount of ballast. I want to piggyback some extra bags in the back lockers and add the factory bow ballast. I will probably keep 100-200 lbs of lead bags in the boat for fine tuning. I will look into those other props you've listed. Thanks again.

here's a shot of the new boat -

newbu2.jpg

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Bill_AirJunky

Nice setup, Mike. Congrats on the new boat. Be sure to give Jake a call at SS & get at least 1 Comptech rack for that baby. It'll be nice to get your own ski mounted, then you'll have room for more as your buddies come around. It's not unusual for me to have as many as 4 foils on my Vride.... 2 racked & 2 on the engine cover. I still have the board racks for any boarders that come along, takes some juggling to get it all mounted at once but has worked on occasion.

I have the Monsoon & get about 44 mph out of it..... although not very often. I'm not usually in that big a hurry. I have about 1200 lbs of ballast capable on the boat but don't think I've ever opened it up when it was all full.

I have a buddy who is about to take possession of a 23' Vride with the LCR in it & the 1235 prop. We test rode it late last fall & got about 40+ mph out of it briefly. We thought it might be a bit underpowered but I think it's going to be fine.... just might lose a couple mph at the top end.

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NorrisMike

Nice setup, Mike. Congrats on the new boat. Be sure to give Jake a call at SS & get at least 1 Comptech rack for that baby. It'll be nice to get your own ski mounted, then you'll have room for more as your buddies come around. It's not unusual for me to have as many as 4 foils on my Vride.... 2 racked & 2 on the engine cover. I still have the board racks for any boarders that come along, takes some juggling to get it all mounted at once but has worked on occasion.

I have the Monsoon & get about 44 mph out of it..... although not very often. I'm not usually in that big a hurry. I have about 1200 lbs of ballast capable on the boat but don't think I've ever opened it up when it was all full.

I have a buddy who is about to take possession of a 23' Vride with the LCR in it & the 1235 prop. We test rode it late last fall & got about 40+ mph out of it briefly. We thought it might be a bit underpowered but I think it's going to be fine.... just might lose a couple mph at the top end.

Thanks Bill! I def need to get some racks! Also, the more people I talk to the more I am hearing that I should be getting more speed out of my boat. I even called Acme. Hopefully it is an easy fix like bad gas or something. That gas could very well be the same gas thats been in it for 2 years having only 45 hours. Not sure if they used it at all last year. I am going to see if it works its way out once I get some fresh fuel. I am going to add some seafoam and run some 100% 89 octane gas in her. Hopefully the problem clears up. The boat has a hard hole shot and seems fine everywhere except top end. I wonder if the motor still needs to loosen up? I would be willing to bet that I am the first one to put it WOT. The lady who sold it to me was 73 years old!!

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shawndoggy

I think it sounds a touch low too. I've run both an acme 1433 and an OJ fusion 537 on our boat, and the fusion on our old vride (prior hull to yours). On our current boat which is bigger and has a lot more wetted surface we can hit 38-39 at 4000'. On the vride the fusion would do 41-42.

I'd think you should do no worse than our current boat.

Dumb question, but do you have a wedge and was it down? I could see a deployed wedge resulting in a serious reduction in top speed.

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Bill_AirJunky

Just because it's a new for you boat & you know nothing about how it was taken care of........ when I buy something new, I usually give it a full tune-up, filters, oil change, run some fuel system cleaner (Seafoam is fine) & check out the ignition.... plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc. Especially in a boat, moisture, corrosion, etc. Replace what doesn't look right.

Also, the impeller. Just because it only has 45 hrs on it, things could have dried out & cracked. But the point is that when your done, you have a maintenance baseline established for the future.

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NorrisMike

I think it sounds a touch low too. I've run both an acme 1433 and an OJ fusion 537 on our boat, and the fusion on our old vride (prior hull to yours). On our current boat which is bigger and has a lot more wetted surface we can hit 38-39 at 4000'. On the vride the fusion would do 41-42.

I'd think you should do no worse than our current boat.

Dumb question, but do you have a wedge and was it down? I could see a deployed wedge resulting in a serious reduction in top speed.

Nope! I did not have the wedge down. I actually double checked that. It was all the way up.

Just because it's a new for you boat & you know nothing about how it was taken care of........ when I buy something new, I usually give it a full tune-up, filters, oil change, run some fuel system cleaner (Seafoam is fine) & check out the ignition.... plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc. Especially in a boat, moisture, corrosion, etc. Replace what doesn't look right.

Also, the impeller. Just because it only has 45 hrs on it, things could have dried out & cracked. But the point is that when your done, you have a maintenance baseline established for the future.

I am the same way as you. I like my things dialed in and that is a good way to get a baseline like you said. I already changed the oil and filter in the engine. I also checked the trans and drive fluid multiple times while cold and when on the lake. I need to get a pump or vacuum to suck the trans/drive oil out and once I do I will change that too. I looked hard for a fuel filter suspecting some blockage but came up with nothing. Nothing inline anyways. I think it is in the tank at the bottom of the pickup. I will crack into that if I have to but would like to wait and see first. I checked the plug wires and they all looked attached properly and fine. I pulled a few plugs to make sure the gap was correct. They were fine.

I sent pictures of the prop to ACME and they thought it looked good and said it didn't show signs of repair. You'd have to pull it to check for sure though. I would like to try another prop out to rule out the prop being the issue.

After I get this old gas out I'll be putting is some 100% 89 octane gas and a full can of seafoam. If that doesn't seem to help it then I will dig deeper. Pull ALL the plugs and wires and check each one, inspect the fuel pump and check the pickup for blockage, maybe swap out the fuel lines. I'v heard about ethanol eating the insides of fuel line after a while.

The boat runs GREAT other than the low top end and me feeling like it should be turning more rpm's! It's like there is a governor screw on the throttle and I need to simply back it out some....

Edited by NorrisMike

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NorrisMike

Well I just got back from the lake and I am very pleased to say it's fixed!! Not sure exactly what did it. I went through and pulled the plugs and wires, and doused the fuel with a seafoam and stabill fuel treatment cocktail. I wouldn't doubt there was a loose wire or something... Who knows! Anyways, at WOT I ended up getting 5,050 rpms @ 40-41 mph. That's more like it! Now I can sleep at night... :thumbup:

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REW

Well I just got back from the lake and I am very pleased to say it's fixed!! Not sure exactly what did it. I went through and pulled the plugs and wires, and doused the fuel with a seafoam and stabill fuel treatment cocktail. I wouldn't doubt there was a loose wire or something... Who knows! Anyways, at WOT I ended up getting 5,050 rpms @ 40-41 mph. That's more like it! Now I can sleep at night... :thumbup:

Good news Congratulations :partytime:

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shawndoggy

That's more like it. Sweet!

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FlatH20

the fuel filter is in the tank - you'll need to purge the schrader valve on the fuel rail and get a pair of ring pliers (I think thats what they are called) and pull the clip holding the fuel line in the tank - the filter is right under that. - easy 5 minutes or less

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NorrisMike

the fuel filter is in the tank - you'll need to purge the schrader valve on the fuel rail and get a pair of ring pliers (I think thats what they are called) and pull the clip holding the fuel line in the tank - the filter is right under that. - easy 5 minutes or less

Thank you for the tip. Even though it seems to be dialed in now, I think I'll do that tonight just to make sure it looks fine. Thanks again for the help.

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NorrisMike

By the way - the boat speedo was reading 42-43.5 at WOT which I checked with a GPS. It was actually around 40-41. Is there a way to calibrate that? I guess I could thumb through the manual and see for myself. First I need to double check if it is off at riding speed... The first time out it looked pretty accurate and yesterday it looked about 1mph off at 26mph...

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Bill_AirJunky

Well I just got back from the lake and I am very pleased to say it's fixed!! Not sure exactly what did it. I went through and pulled the plugs and wires, and doused the fuel with a seafoam and stabill fuel treatment cocktail. I wouldn't doubt there was a loose wire or something... Who knows! Anyways, at WOT I ended up getting 5,050 rpms @ 40-41 mph. That's more like it! Now I can sleep at night... :thumbup:

Good deal.... glad to hear it.

On the speedo calibration, you should have two small momentary switches on the far lower right side of the dash. I can't remember which one it is, but one of them does the speedo. In my experience you can calibrate at riding speeds & the high/low end may not be exactly right... does the same thing on my bike too.

Edited by Bill_AirJunky

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CedarLakeSkier

By the way - the boat speedo was reading 42-43.5 at WOT which I checked with a GPS. It was actually around 40-41. Is there a way to calibrate that? I guess I could thumb through the manual and see for myself. First I need to double check if it is off at riding speed... The first time out it looked pretty accurate and yesterday it looked about 1mph off at 26mph...

This is vRide, so you have the LCD (black and white) screen in the center of the dash, correct?

The answer is that it can be calibrated, but you should calibrate it to the speed you use most often. For example if you are a skier you may want to calibrate at 30 or 32 (whatever you ski at), as a wakeboarder, maybe in the 20 range. The reason is that the speed you calibrate is just about the only one that will be accurate. The "First time" you were out, what speed were you going? That's probably where it's calibrated.

There are some instructions on this site on how to calibrate that unit, but I would have to search

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NorrisMike

Cool. Thanks. I will calibrate it next time out at around 24-26 mph since that is where it will spend most of its time. I will check in the manual to be sure on the procedure. This is what it looks like - these #'s were before it was cured! the left side gauge is a speedo and as you can see the right is the rpm - with the LCD in the middle.

dash.jpg

Edited by NorrisMike

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CedarLakeSkier

Cool. Thanks. I will calibrate it next time out at around 24-26 mph since that is where it will spend most of its time. I will check in the manual to be sure on the procedure. This is what it looks like - these #'s were before it was cured! the left side gauge is a speedo and as you can see the right is the rpm - with the LCD in the middle.

dash.jpg

Yeah, that's the speedometer I was thinking about (same as mine). Try this out (credit Tao of Wake in this thread)

The speed can be calibrated manually when the boat speed is between 15 and 36 MPH. To calibrate, scroll through the display menu to MPH/RPM. Press and hold the "E (Enter)" to enter. Highlight MPH and use arrow buttons to adjust speed UP or DOWN. Press "E (Enter)" to exit. The MPH mode is all that can be recalibrated.

I used a handheld GPS to check speed and recalibrated the speedo at different speeds: 15, 20, 25, 30, and 35. I held the speed (based on the GPS) for about 10 seconds and then adjusted the speedo to match. It's a good idea to have calm water to easily keep speed and a dedicated driver to adjust speed based on the GPS and watch the water. The other person can make the speedo adjustments. It took me all of 10 minutes to calibrate.

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