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How Well Does Your Heater Work


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this is my first experience with a heater in the boat and it doesn't seem to work very well. it really only gets hot during extended runs and if you idle for any period of time after it is warmed up the heater cools down right away. it this something I should be trouble shooting or is this just the way it is?

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this is my first experience with a heater in the boat and it doesn't seem to work very well. it really only gets hot during extended runs and if you idle for any period of time after it is warmed up the heater cools down right away. it this something I should be trouble shooting or is this just the way it is?

Lots and Lots of posts on this. Search for "Y Pipe" or "Heat at idle" and I'm sure you'll find information on installing a device that will give you more heat at idle.

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Well I did do some searching and apparently the y fitting is the way to go. There were only a couple pics of an installed fitting. If anybody has any other pictures that would be much appreciated. Thanks

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there's a really long hose that runs from the vdrive to the raw water pump. Saw that in half. Be careful because the wire inside gets really sharp (ask how I know). Install Y pipe there. The small side should point toward the front of the boat.

That's it!

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Here is a good thread

I am confused... So do our boats already have a Y pipe installed but it may be installed after the raw water pump and we simply need to remove it and install before the raw water pump or do we have to purchase the Y pipe?

$55 seems a bit much

http://www.heatercraft.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=H424

Edited by BlitzedVLX
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Here is a good thread

http://www.themalibu...ss-12-throttle/

I am confused... So do our boats already have a Y pipe installed but it may be installed after the raw water pump and we simply need to remove it and install before the raw water pump or do we have to purchase the Y pipe?

Yes, mine was installed after the pump. I moved it and it worked better.

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Yes, mine was installed after the pump. I moved it and it worked better.

Gotcha, so if you remove it what did you use to form the connection in its place?

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Gotcha, so if you remove it what did you use to form the connection in its place?

Something like this except in the correct diameter which is 1 1/4 I believe. I secured it with hose clamps and it just goes where the y pipe used to be. The wire reinforced hose you will need to cut to add the y fitting is pretty dang tough. You may want to remove the hose, add the fitting then put it back. I have a DD so access was easier. Use double hose clamps when you place the y fitting in front of the pump.

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Bakes and Skidim have them also.

Bakes $35

Does anyone know if this works on newer (2010+) boats? I read that older thread and they were talking about older boats. I would install this if it applied to the newer BU's.

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Bakes $35

Does anyone know if this works on newer (2010+) boats? I read that older thread and they were talking about older boats. I would install this if it applied to the newer BU's.

I was wondering the same thing. I haven't poked around the engine compartment of my MXZ too much, but I do know the heater was much hotter at idle than it was on my 07 VLX with the Y valve installed but in the wrong location.....

I'll have to check into it if it ever stops raining/snowing.

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Bakes $35

Does anyone know if this works on newer (2010+) boats? I read that older thread and they were talking about older boats. I would install this if it applied to the newer BU's.

Good question as I am looking for my 2011

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I don't have mine done yet... but I am installing the "Y" fitting on mine to have heat at idle.

I am also installing a "Tee" fitting (to start the engine out of the water), and a strainer.

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had the same prob with my lxi..... swaped the y to the raw water inlet hose and the heater worked great. BUT i used a metal barb style fitting to reconnect the hose where the y used to be in the raw water outlet

it worked great for 2 yrs. Then we were on a houseboat trip at bull shoals and my boat had the good stereo in it so we were partying after dark with my stereo on. I fired my boat up to charge the battery and

jumped back in the water 2 min later noticed the bilge pump was running full blast and there was smoke rolling out of the exhaust the raw water outlet hose riped open at the metal barb fitting!!!! so i would suggest replacing the outlet hose instead of putting in a splice

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had the same prob with my lxi..... swaped the y to the raw water inlet hose and the heater worked great. BUT i used a metal barb style fitting to reconnect the hose where the y used to be in the raw water outlet

it worked great for 2 yrs. Then we were on a houseboat trip at bull shoals and my boat had the good stereo in it so we were partying after dark with my stereo on. I fired my boat up to charge the battery and

jumped back in the water 2 min later noticed the bilge pump was running full blast and there was smoke rolling out of the exhaust the raw water outlet hose riped open at the metal barb fitting!!!! so i would suggest replacing the outlet hose instead of putting in a splice

Anyone know if this size hose can be bought at an auto parts store? I have not looked yet.

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Anyone know if this size hose can be bought at an auto parts store? I have not looked yet.

you can get wire reinforced 1 1/4" universal flexy hoses at most any auto parts store. It's not the uncrushable stuff like is used for the raw water intake, but I bet it could keep you on the water for the weekend.

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You could "block off" the existing "Y" and put a new one in before the water pump. Then not worry about reconnecting the 1-1/4" hose. Though, it'll cost a bit more than re-using the "Y".

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I searched on my 2011 vlx and did not see a y in the line. Should this be the case for a 2011 or am I missing something

where do the two heater lines connect to the block? Was the heater factory installed or installed by the dealer?

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One line is connected at the top and one from the bottom in the same general area. Not too sure who did the install

so it sounds like you just need a plug for one of the taps into the block, and a y pipe, and a hacksaw to cut the raw water hose and you are good to go. make sure to be careful of the reinforced wire inside the hose when you cut... that sucker will be sharp (ask how I know, doh!).

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I searched on my 2011 vlx and did not see a y in the line. Should this be the case for a 2011 or am I missing something

My earlier comment for getting another "Y" was in regards to the issue with the hose failing from the splice. I meant just leave that "Y" and block it off and then put another "Y" before the raw water pump. I was just giving another option. However, the best thing to do would be to replace the hose without a splice.

As far as the 2011 VLX... There's no "Y" on it from the factory. They route the return line into the recirculating pump. The recirc pump apparently doesn't move enough water at idle. So re-routing the heater return line to in front of the raw water pump keeps water flowing through the heater at all times. The heater supply line (coming out of the manifold) stays. You will have to block the port for the hose you remove from the recirc pump. You can pull the fitting and plug the port on the pump. Or... Instead, I just left about 3" of hose on there and put a plug in the hose.

The "Y" tube will come with a drawing of where to put it and how to orientate it.

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