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kayakwv

Depth Finder For '05 Vlx?

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kayakwv

My VLX has a lake and air temp gauge, but no depth gauge. Anyone no if I can get one without putting a new hole in the boat?

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Jimmypooh

Most depth gauges require a through hull. I'm sure others will chime in. Whatever you do, don't put the OEM one in there. They were pretty back from that era.

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apwrx

the oem would be my first choice unfortunately its about $400.The nice thing is it works with the gauges and comes up on the same lcd as air/ water temp.You can get either glue down or through hull module on most depth finders.

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GreenMan

Here's a link to an article I posted on installing an OEM depth module to my 2005 RLXi. I chose the transducer that requires a hole through the hull but you can alternatively purchase the glue down type. Installation was easy if you discount the terror of drilling the hull! Must have measured it about a hundred times before I drilled!

The good thing with the OEM unit is how it seamlessly it integrates with the existing instruments.

My components were purchased through the ever helpful Paul at Bakes Marine.

2005 RLXi Depth Module retro fit

Edited by GreenMan

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kayakwv

Are the glue downs accurate enough??

Also, not sure but i think the existing temp sensor is a thru hull. Could it be removed and put the oem depth finder in it's place?

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GreenMan

Plenty of boats use the glue down types and seem to be OK but I figure it has to be better if it doesn't have to 'look' through a slab of fibreglass first.

The lake temperature sensor is integral with the paddle wheel speed pickup so, no, it can't be substituted with the depth transducer.

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TheHardWay

My 03 XTi didn't have a depth gauge either. I refused to drill a hole in the bottom of my hull, so I went with the glue down type of transducer. I bought one of those Humminbird HDR 600s off of eBay for around $100. I sanded the 'bumps' in the fiberglass smooth and did a trial run with silicone before permanently gluing it down with slow cure epoxy. It worked just fine, I came home and epoxied it in place.

If you go this route, here are a few things to consider:

1) Constant water and no air bubbles will give you your best and most accurate readings

2) when you are determining the location for the in-hull transducer, you want to locate it in a part of the hull that remains in the water, even at high speeds, i.e. towards the stern, near the keel/as close to the center line of the hull as possible.

3) Place the in hull transducer at least 2-3 feet after or just before anything that would cause turbulence in the water flow i.e. raw water pick-ups, paddle wheel sensors, thru hull ballast fittings, stakes. Even if you keep the transducer 2-3 behind or just ahead of these things, try to offset it as well so it isn't sending signals from the same linear plane.

4) Test your location before you permanently glue the transducer in place

5) When you first use silicone for testing and epoxy later on, make sure you don't just stick the transducer to the floor in a vertical direction. Get it in place, then work it around in a circular motion. This will help eliminate air bubbles in the adhesive, which, again, will cause poor/inaccurate readings

6) When you finally do epoxy the transducer in place, be sure to use a SLOW CURE epoxy (8-12hour) The fast cure epoxies create heat as part of the chemical reaction, which can damage the sensitive electronics inside the transducer.

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Agman

My 03 XTi didn't have a depth gauge either. I refused to drill a hole in the bottom of my hull, so I went with the glue down type of transducer. I bought one of those Humminbird HDR 600s off of eBay for around $100. I sanded the 'bumps' in the fiberglass smooth and did a trial run with silicone before permanently gluing it down with slow cure epoxy. It worked just fine, I came home and epoxied it in place.

If you go this route, here are a few things to consider:

1) Constant water and no air bubbles will give you your best and most accurate readings

2) when you are determining the location for the in-hull transducer, you want to locate it in a part of the hull that remains in the water, even at high speeds, i.e. towards the stern, near the keel/as close to the center line of the hull as possible.

3) Place the in hull transducer at least 2-3 feet after or just before anything that would cause turbulence in the water flow i.e. raw water pick-ups, paddle wheel sensors, thru hull ballast fittings, stakes. Even if you keep the transducer 2-3 behind or just ahead of these things, try to offset it as well so it isn't sending signals from the same linear plane.

4) Test your location before you permanently glue the transducer in place

5) When you first use silicone for testing and epoxy later on, make sure you don't just stick the transducer to the floor in a vertical direction. Get it in place, then work it around in a circular motion. This will help eliminate air bubbles in the adhesive, which, again, will cause poor/inaccurate readings

6) When you finally do epoxy the transducer in place, be sure to use a SLOW CURE epoxy (8-12hour) The fast cure epoxies create heat as part of the chemical reaction, which can damage the sensitive electronics inside the transducer.

I used a Hawkeye from West Marine and works fine. Follow steps from RedRum and it is an easy install.

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