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Motor Seized?


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I find it really hard to believe that it would seize...it never ran above Idle...the fluids all look fine..I run only synthetic oil..and I have seen engines run at high rpm for a long time and very hot before anything happened...and as a note...there was no squealing or shreeking sounds of any kind????? Seems odd to me!

5 minutes at a overheating temperature with motors likes ours (very tight tolerances on everything) is a very long time. Big difference between auto (assuming that is what you experienced) and Marine engines.

If your motor shut itself down, and it won't roll over with the spark plugs out that is a pretty sure sign that it is toast but I am hoping for the best for you! I'm sure you were not planning on overhauling the engine this spring!

Wish you luck!

-Paul

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5 minutes at a overheating temperature with motors likes ours (very tight tolerances on everything) is a very long time. Big difference between auto (assuming that is what you experienced) and Marine engines.

If your motor shut itself down, and it won't roll over with the spark plugs out that is a pretty sure sign that it is toast but I am hoping for the best for you! I'm sure you were not planning on overhauling the engine this spring!

Wish you luck!

-Paul

Actaully, I think it's seized too, I'm just the eternal optimist. Sorry jensemo ;)

Hopin' for good news,

Steve B.

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Honestly, why pull the starter or do anything? You're going to need to get an estimate at a shop regardless. Before you start pulling stuff off of it, just take it in for an inspection and estimate as it is, rather than with a bunch of parts in a bin. No mechanic likes that, or likes to hear all the stuff you did to it before bringing it in.

Good luck! I'm skeptical too...5 minutes is a VERY long time. Do you have a temp guage and if so did you note what the temp was?

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Just take it to someone who can inspect it for you. From your questions it doesnt sound like you are going to be doing the rebuild or long block yourself so it would be best to have it inspected by someone with mechanical occupation and hope for good news but expect the worst. Sorry to be negative but the 383HH is not a motor for the enthusiast to go diving into it should be rebuilt by a pro.

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I think the thought with the starter is just to hope with both fingers crossed that is it bound up on the flywheel and keeping it from turning over. I think the chances of that happening after an overheat would be too coincidental, but doesn't hurt to eliminate everything before the long haul to a dealer. Can always re-install the starter if it checks ok.

I've siezed plenty in my day (auto, not marine) but I don't think any have ever been from overheat, so I'm not sure what that would sound like if anything. If the piston gets too hot it can melt or expand to the point where it gets larger than the cylinder bore and stick. Although one would think after cooling it would turn over again and leave a trashed cylinder behind. You say fluids look ok. Is this from the dipstick or did you completely drain the oil. I'd drain and put it in a mason jar. Look for metallics. That would be bearings. My last seizure experience was a spun rod bearing. Made aweful noise but would still start and run. You could have problems on the main bearings if you cooked your oil so thin that it ran through like water. A stuck main bearing might provide more resistance to turning over again than a rod bearing.

Are you pulling it out? If so you have some mechanical aptitude. Pull the heads first and look at the pistons/cylinders.

The note about insurance....while this to me wouldn't qualify at face value, I'm not sure I agree with the previous statement about insurance not covering mechanicals or stupidity. Stupiditiy is the root cause of most accidents, but insurance still covers it. And I've seen auto motors replaced by insurance because road debris took out an oil cooler and all of the oil drained out. If a plastic bag floating in the lake got sucked to the raw water intake and caused an overheat, sounds about like the same situation. But doesn't sound like that's what happened here.

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Honestly, why pull the starter or do anything? You're going to need to get an estimate at a shop regardless. Before you start pulling stuff off of it, just take it in for an inspection and estimate as it is, rather than with a bunch of parts in a bin. No mechanic likes that, or likes to hear all the stuff you did to it before bringing it in.

Good luck! I'm skeptical too...5 minutes is a VERY long time. Do you have a temp guage and if so did you note what the temp was?

I believe the temperature was 170

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if the raw water pump failed but the engine water pump continued to work, wouldn't the block get pumped dry? If that were the case would the temp sensor in the block provide an accurate reading (air temp vs coolant temp)?

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170 is not an overheat. Did it cough and sputter and run real rough before shutting down? I'm not sure how it could run for 5 minutes on no cooling water and not get any higher than 170. The guage would have to be pegged to do major engine damage.

I don't think the engine circ pump would drain the block dry, but it could have I suppose. Even if it did, the intake would get hot enough to heat up the temp sensor regardless if it's actually dipped in water.

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I feel like one of the guy's in King of the Hill, standing around the silent engine, drinkin' a beer, speculating on what the issue is :thumbup:

Hope it breathes back to life soon,

Steve B.

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UPDATE: Ok i pulled the starter and still cant move it. One thing...is when it was overheating...it was like there was an over ride of some sort that wouldn't allow the engine to go above idle rpm...it seemed to me like there was a safety of some kind....still seems weird that I cant turn the engine either direction...I wonder if the tranny could be locked up or something...My though is even if it is seized...you should be able to move it at least slightly and there's no way!

By the way...I have rebuilt about 30 small block Chevy's...This inst my first time looking at an engine for all of those wondering if I have any mechanical experience..but I have no experience with aluminum pistons..

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170 is not an overheat. Did it cough and sputter and run real rough before shutting down? I'm not sure how it could run for 5 minutes on no cooling water and not get any higher than 170. The guage would have to be pegged to do major engine damage.

I don't think the engine circ pump would drain the block dry, but it could have I suppose. Even if it did, the intake would get hot enough to heat up the temp sensor regardless if it's actually dipped in water.

It didnt run rough....It was idling in the water while I was waiting for it to cool....i had no idea that the water pump impeller would have got chewed up.

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UPDATE: Ok i pulled the starter and still cant move it. One thing...is when it was overheating...it was like there was an over ride of some sort that wouldn't allow the engine to go above idle rpm...it seemed to me like there was a safety of some kind....still seems weird that I cant turn the engine either direction...I wonder if the tranny could be locked up or something...My though is even if it is seized...you should be able to move it at least slightly and there's no way!

By the way...I have rebuilt about 30 small block Chevy's...This inst my first time looking at an engine for all of those wondering if I have any mechanical experience..but I have no experience with aluminum pistons..

Most of the time they are seized tight. You won't be able to budge it even a tiny bit. Also I am more confused than ever. If you have rebuilt 30 sbc's you would know that they all have aluminum pistons....? Huh?

Something's not right here....

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Did the engine smell funny? If you cooked it there would be a nasty smell coming off that engine. I had a prior I/O boat and pegged the temp gauge (no alarm), and what made me think "something is wrong" was the smell coming from the engine compartment. Maybe it didn't get that hot after all and there really is something else.

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By the way...I have rebuilt about 30 small block Chevy's...This inst my first time looking at an engine for all of those wondering if I have any mechanical experience..but I have no experience with aluminum pistons..

Maybe the new forged steel pistons from JEG'S havn't made it in for the rebuild yet. :tease2:

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UPDATE: Ok i pulled the starter and still cant move it. One thing...is when it was overheating...it was like there was an over ride of some sort that wouldn't allow the engine to go above idle rpm...it seemed to me like there was a safety of some kind....still seems weird that I cant turn the engine either direction...I wonder if the tranny could be locked up or something...My though is even if it is seized...you should be able to move it at least slightly and there's no way
By the way...I have rebuilt about 30 small block Chevy's...This inst my first time looking at an engine for all of those wondering if I have any mechanical experience..but I have no experience with aluminum pistons.

WOW!!! Take it too a shop and have someone look at it, You will be money ahead. It sounds like a piston stuck, If you idled it for 5 minutes with no water in it, after it was already overheated, it is stuck.

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I have gotten a few opinions from people that work on these engines and the verdict is that im pulling it out...just getting it ready for the operation..Ill update my progress and keep everyone posted.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

Dont you love these threads that leave you hanging.

Steve B.

Seriously! I would have thought the engine would be out by now...(4 months later)

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Why wouldnt the ECM shut off the engine once it overheats?

Same question for trans overheat.

You would think the ECM should have these types of protections .

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