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Murphy8166

Wiring For Ballast System

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Murphy8166

We are going to be adding a couple of the Johnson reversible ballast pumps in the boat and I plan on putting the switches over on the drivers side. The batteries are located on the passenger side storage compartment. I have already have a Blue Sea ST Blade Fuseblock than I have my EQ and Ipod Charger wired into located on the drivers side. I have 12 guage leads going from that Fuseblock to the batteries.

I have some extra openings on the Fuseblock and would like to wire the pumps into this point as well. Each reversible pump would get its power and ground from the fuse block. I would upgrade the wire from the batteries to the fuse block to an 8 guage power and ground. The run from the batteries to the block is about 6 feet. The block in total can accomodate up to 100 amps with no more than 30 amps being on one terminal.

The Audiocontrol pulls less than 1 amp and the Peripheral IS 75 is around 2 amps. The Johnson pumps pull 10 amps at start up and 7 amps at running each.

I will also put a fuse in the power line over to the block - something around 50 amps.

So it looks I am still underneath the max amperage for that block. Anyone see any problems with this setup?

block.jpg

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a92harley92

We are going to be adding a couple of the Johnson reversible ballast pumps in the boat and I plan on putting the switches over on the drivers side. The batteries are located on the passenger side storage compartment. I have already have a Blue Sea ST Blade Fuseblock than I have my EQ and Ipod Charger wired into located on the drivers side. I have 12 guage leads going from that Fuseblock to the batteries.

I have some extra openings on the Fuseblock and would like to wire the pumps into this point as well. Each reversible pump would get its power and ground from the fuse block. I would upgrade the wire from the batteries to the fuse block to an 8 guage power and ground. The run from the batteries to the block is about 6 feet. The block in total can accomodate up to 100 amps with no more than 30 amps being on one terminal.

The Audiocontrol pulls less than 1 amp and the Peripheral IS 75 is around 2 amps. The Johnson pumps pull 10 amps at start up and 7 amps at running each.

I will also put a fuse in the power line over to the block - something around 50 amps.

So it looks I am still underneath the max amperage for that block. Anyone see any problems with this setup?

Where are you getting this info? The manual is hard to interpret, but it looks like the pump pulls more than 7 amps (according to the online manual). I'm asking because I'm getting ready to purchase these pumps as well. The fuse rating for these pumps (according to the manual) is 25 amps.

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Fman

We are going to be adding a couple of the Johnson reversible ballast pumps in the boat and I plan on putting the switches over on the drivers side. The batteries are located on the passenger side storage compartment. I have already have a Blue Sea ST Blade Fuseblock than I have my EQ and Ipod Charger wired into located on the drivers side. I have 12 guage leads going from that Fuseblock to the batteries.

I have some extra openings on the Fuseblock and would like to wire the pumps into this point as well. Each reversible pump would get its power and ground from the fuse block. I would upgrade the wire from the batteries to the fuse block to an 8 guage power and ground. The run from the batteries to the block is about 6 feet. The block in total can accomodate up to 100 amps with no more than 30 amps being on one terminal.

The Audiocontrol pulls less than 1 amp and the Peripheral IS 75 is around 2 amps. The Johnson pumps pull 10 amps at start up and 7 amps at running each.

I will also put a fuse in the power line over to the block - something around 50 amps.

So it looks I am still underneath the max amperage for that block. Anyone see any problems with this setup?

block.jpg

You should be find with the fuse block. I did the same install last season, I elected to run directly off the perko switch with an in-line fuse located up under the dash area. I believe I went with 15 amp fuses, the pumps will surge a little past 10 amps when turned on.

Edited by Fman

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dgd

We are going to be adding a couple of the Johnson reversible ballast pumps in the boat and I plan on putting the switches over on the drivers side. The batteries are located on the passenger side storage compartment. I have already have a Blue Sea ST Blade Fuseblock than I have my EQ and Ipod Charger wired into located on the drivers side. I have 12 guage leads going from that Fuseblock to the batteries.

I have some extra openings on the Fuseblock and would like to wire the pumps into this point as well. Each reversible pump would get its power and ground from the fuse block. I would upgrade the wire from the batteries to the fuse block to an 8 guage power and ground. The run from the batteries to the block is about 6 feet. The block in total can accomodate up to 100 amps with no more than 30 amps being on one terminal.

The Audiocontrol pulls less than 1 amp and the Peripheral IS 75 is around 2 amps. The Johnson pumps pull 10 amps at start up and 7 amps at running each.

I will also put a fuse in the power line over to the block - something around 50 amps.

So it looks I am still underneath the max amperage for that block. Anyone see any problems with this setup?

block.jpg

I am in the process of adding a single 1100lb bag and Jabsco pump and am wondering why you would not utilize existing wiring and circuit breakers. On my 2011 LSV, I have a number of spare CBs that are already wired and include Power Seat (30A); Heater #2 (15A); Shower (10A) and Seat Heat (10A). I plan on using the spare 15A Heater for my installation. Can't you do the same rather than run additional wiring?

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Murphy8166

I am in the process of adding a single 1100lb bag and Jabsco pump and am wondering why you would not utilize existing wiring and circuit breakers. On my 2011 LSV, I have a number of spare CBs that are already wired and include Power Seat (30A); Heater #2 (15A); Shower (10A) and Seat Heat (10A). I plan on using the spare 15A Heater for my installation. Can't you do the same rather than run additional wiring?

good questions - i am not sure.

i'd rather keep it mine separate from the boat electronics

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dgd

good questions - i am not sure.

i'd rather keep it mine separate from the boat electronics

I talked to our friends at WSA and they suggested using the existing circuits which made sense to me.

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Murphy8166

So you would ground to the terminal strip under the dash and get your power from the existing, unused circuit breakers.

Would you use the drain/off /fill switches that come with the pumps or from wakemakers

Edited by Murphy8166

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Fman

I am in the process of adding a single 1100lb bag and Jabsco pump and am wondering why you would not utilize existing wiring and circuit breakers. On my 2011 LSV, I have a number of spare CBs that are already wired and include Power Seat (30A); Heater #2 (15A); Shower (10A) and Seat Heat (10A). I plan on using the spare 15A Heater for my installation. Can't you do the same rather than run additional wiring?

I am no wiring expert, but I would avoid tying these pumps into any circuit on the boat. Its a very simple process to run directly off the perko with an inline fuse, this way you take no risk of blowing or overloading a circuit and creating more headaches for yourself. Especially with all the electronics in these boats... I am a keep it simple person, just my .02.... I ran all last season with this setup and my boat never skipped a beat.

Edited by Fman

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nyryan2001

Murphy, I spent 30mins on the phone with the guys at Wakemakers.... They said either the Johnsons or Jabscos can do a 15ft run off of 10-12 gauge just fine. No relay, right to a rocker switch,

Each pump needs it's own run of 10-12ga.

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nyryan2001

Also, you can use the existing hull drains... No need to drill fiberglass unless you really want to.

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nyryan2001

Also, they reccomend 20a fuse on each run.

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dgd

So you would ground to the terminal strip under the dash and get your power from the existing, unused circuit breakers.

Would you use the drain/off /fill switches that come with the pumps or from wakemakers

Yes, I am using the ground terminal strip under the dash plus the spare 15A Heater #2 CB, wired to the Wakemakers supplied Fill/Drain Switch for the Jabsco pump.

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dgd

I am no wiring expert, but I would avoid tying these pumps into any circuit on the boat. Its a very simple process to run directly off the perko with an inline fuse, this way you take no risk of blowing or overloading a circuit and creating more headaches for yourself. Especially with all the electronics in these boats... I am a keep it simple person, just my .02.... I ran all last season with this setup and my boat never skipped a beat.

One other comment, I can't see an issue with tying the pumps(s) into these existing circuits as in my case, I have five unused CBs with a total capacity of 85A.

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Murphy8166

I have decided that I am going to use my Blue Sea Fuse Block and keep it all seperate from the boat electronics.

Ryan - thanks for info, I too have spoke with Wakemakers last week.

If you are planning on using the exsisting drain plugs - this is a pretty good option from bakes on the ball valve with threaded end.

shutoffvalve_SM.jpg

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Bradley Thornton

We are going to be adding a couple of the Johnson reversible ballast pumps in the boat and I plan on putting the switches over on the drivers side. The batteries are located on the passenger side storage compartment. I have already have a Blue Sea ST Blade Fuseblock than I have my EQ and Ipod Charger wired into located on the drivers side. I have 12 guage leads going from that Fuseblock to the batteries.I have some extra openings on the Fuseblock and would like to wire the pumps into this point as well. Each reversible pump would get its power and ground from the fuse block. I would upgrade the wire from the batteries to the fuse block to an 8 guage power and ground. The run from the batteries to the block is about 6 feet. The block in total can accomodate up to 100 amps with no more than 30 amps being on one terminal.The Audiocontrol pulls less than 1 amp and the Peripheral IS 75 is around 2 amps. The Johnson pumps pull 10 amps at start up and 7 amps at running each.I will also put a fuse in the power line over to the block - something around 50 amps.So it looks I am still underneath the max amperage for that block. Anyone see any problems with this setup?block.jpg

You can't go wrong doing it like Malibu would. But in the end it comes down to what makes you sleep better at night.

I am in the process of adding a single 1100lb bag and Jabsco pump and am wondering why you would not utilize existing wiring and circuit breakers. On my 2011 LSV, I have a number of spare CBs that are already wired and include Power Seat (30A); Heater #2 (15A); Shower (10A) and Seat Heat (10A). I plan on using the spare 15A Heater for my installation. Can't you do the same rather than run additional wiring?

I just did this and it went great but use a 20amp breaker I ordered mine from Bakesonline I also used the factory switches just make sure you wire it correctly. I looked at the switches that came with the pump and wired it the same the trick is the ground.

Also, they reccomend 20a fuse on each run.

Yes the 20amp is the correct breaker others may work but the 20amp is correct.

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