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jwl019

Keel Repair Advice

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jwl019

I need some help on repairing my keel on a 2001Malibu Sunsetter LXI. It needs something to repair a 3" wide x 5' long area. I need to know the best product and the quantity of that product to order. (Marine Tex or other)

Background: I bought the boat at the very end of last season, and it had a keel guard that had been rubbed thru from being beached alot. I removed the keel guard to totally expose the damage, of course the sticky from the keel guard is still on the boat so I need some tips on removing it as well. I have tried goo gone, hull cleaner, and nothing has completely removed it.

I am going to repair it and place another keel guard to cover the repair, but I want to repair it to prevent water from soaking up on the fiberglass.

I took it to a local fiberglass guy and he said it was ok, just an eye soar. He said with the trailer roller where it is, it will be hard yo repair and stay (2001 Dorsey trailer).

Any tips/advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Photos: http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z330/jwl019/Keel%20Pics/

Not sure if photo link will work, but will post link to individual pics if needed.

Edited by jwl019
Correct cell autocorrect/insert

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Bozboat

the marine tex stuff is pretty close to bullet proof. After it dries, you can sand it and shape it.

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REW

Acetone or MEK (methel ethiel keytone) should work on the sticky, the MEK MAY soften the gel so be careful.

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tvano

those pix make me want to hit someone.

who would do that to a boat?

ugh.Sad.gif

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jwl019

It really made me sick seeing after pulling off what was left of the keel guard! I don't like seeing peopleafter beaching their boats, especially if I noticed it was doing that I think I would have quit doing it.

I am thinking of trying the acetone to clean the sticky, then applying the Marine-Tex stuff, looks like the 14 oz. might cut it close, may have to find the next size up. Does that stuff come with a hardener or do I order it separate? If order separate, what should I get?

Also, anybody do any mods to trailer to remove the front roller and replace with something else or extend the rear bunks some and if so how did you do it?

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Bozboat

Marine Tex comes with the hardener. It dries fast so you might do smaller sections. Then sand it down.

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jwl019

My link FWIW

Thanks, Ndawg12, I read thru that last night and I am hoping to find someone that can do mine for a great price too, but haven't had any luck around here! I do need to check to make sure the roller spins so that it doesn't tear up the repair. The rub actually runs about 6-8" behind the roller to so I think it is caused by the beaching of the previous owner, but the roller has not helped the matter any.

Thanks again!

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Ndawg12

Thanks, Ndawg12, I read thru that last night and I am hoping to find someone that can do mine for a great price too, but haven't had any luck around here! I do need to check to make sure the roller spins so that it doesn't tear up the repair. The rub actually runs about 6-8" behind the roller to so I think it is caused by the beaching of the previous owner, but the roller has not helped the matter any.

Thanks again!

Yeah, I'm a firmer in beaching is BAD!! As was stated, the roller definately should not be contacting that area, if it was it would tear the bow eye off.

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wdr

jw, :plus1: on the MEK or acetone it has worked well for me, but it is most likely is going to require some elbow grease and cussing to clean it off! I can't open the picture to see your set up, but when I put the keel guard on my LSV I short bunked it @ 1 foot at the ramp which allowed me to pull the front bunks off to get to the bow of the keel to put it on. Normally I wouldn't of recommend this, but I only live a mile from the ramp on level terrain and in the middle of no where. When you put the guard on I found it easier and more exacting to pull the guard toward you to initially line up the center glue strip on the guard to put it on.

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jwl019

Well $210 later I have enough stuff on order to fix the keel, couldn't find anyone around here that had time to mess with it. I ordered the Spectrum Gelcoat that is supposed to match my year and make of Malibu boats, hopefully it will look ok. I also had to order all types of sand paper and items to do it with, since never having done this before. I will try to post some picks while doing it once the supplies come in.

Thanks guys for the help!

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nyryan2001

Dude, post up who your Fiberglas guy is so we all know who NOT to ever go to. NO, that is not ok. Exposed fiberglass will absorb moisture.... Which leads to delamination or separation of the gel coat, air in between the FG of the local area. Get that patched up and sealed off asap.

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wdr

jwl019, when you finally get to the point that you are putting on the Spectrum gel be sure to fill in the hole and low spots higher than the base of the hull. That way when it comes to the finished product you won't have any low spots after you wet sand it down. I thought I filled mine in high enough but evidently not, because after I buffed it out I found a low spot. No big, you have to look real hard and under just the right light and it is on the bottom of the boat so only the fish can see it. :) If you do have to add to it just scuff it up again and reapply.

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jwl019

wdr, how did you apply it? Spray, brush, or roll? I am thinking of brush, then Bondo spreader with some to fill in low brush spots.

As for the local fiberglass guy, I think he said it because he was pretty busy and knew I would probably do it if he told how long I would have to wait (couple months, and probably not enough money in it). He is supposed to be the best around (not that there are many in months), but have heard tons of compliments about big jobs he had done. But he did give me several pointers on other areas of upkeep.

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wdr

jw, if you are talking straight fiberglass work to fix the areas where the glass mat is showing, I have in the past used a stiff bristle brush to stipple/push the resin/fb strips into place. The brush helps to work in the resin and more importantly work out the air pockets and bubbles. Just keep adding layers until it is built up enough to work it down until looks about right. Keep in mind that the Spectrum is purely for cosmetic fixes and has no structural application. What I mean by that is some beer can and bailing wire body guy might want to fix the whole job with Spectrum and that isn't what it was designed for. I used a putty knike to apply the Spectrum as it is a peanut butter consistency after you mix it. It should of come with directions, (4 hours to cure), but I waited overnight and don't get crazy with the catalyst or you will end up with heat bubbles caused from it curing too fast. I started with 220 grit to work it down,(followed by 550/1000/1200/1500 then buffed) which scared the hell out of me at first, but the gel coat is thick so don't sweat it. Just block and wet sand to transition a larger area so you don't get low spots. Just read and follow the directions to the letter and it will turn out great. The color will most likely be off a little, mine was (ebony) and I got an '09 kit for my '10. Good luck, Bill.

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wdr

Almost forgot, when you put on the Spectrum the rougher the contact area the better so it has something rough to stick to. IIRC I left it at a 220 finish.

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sp0tts

Almost forgot, when you put on the Spectrum the rougher the contact area the better so it has something rough to stick to. IIRC I left it at a 220 finish.

Did you order the paste kit from Spectrum or get gelcoat in liquid form? The paste kit will most likely have to be spread. The gel I would spray, you should be able to pick up a Preval sprayer at your local paint supply store (Sherwin Williams def. has them).

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wdr

I got the Spectrum gel (2 part) from them directly as they color match by manufacturer and year. It came in a plastic screw top jar w/ squeeze tube of hardner and instructions.

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MalibuKarl

I need some help on repairing my keel on a 2001Saturday Malibu Sunsetter LXI. It needs something to repair a 3" wide x 5' long area. I need to know the best product and the quantity of that product to order. (Marine Tex or other)

Background: I bought the boat at the very end of last season, and it had a keel guard that had been rubbed thru from being beached alot. I removed the keel guard to totally expose the damage, of course the sticky from the keel guard is still on the boat so I need some tips on removing it as well. I have tried goo gone, hull cleaner, and nothing has completely removed it.

I am going to repair it and place another keel guard to cover the repair, but I want to repair it to prevent water from soaking up on the fiberglass.

I took it to a local fiberglass guy and he said it was ok, just an eye soar. He said with the trailer roller where it is, it will be hard yo repair and stay (2001 Dorsey trailer).

Any tips/advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Photos: http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z330/jwl019/Keel%20Pics/

Not sure if photo link will work, but will post link to individual pics if needed.

[/quo

Not sure if it was just me or if any one else had an issue - but got a malware virus when I clicked on this site. Luckily my virus ware caught it. Just a heads up.

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wdr

Karl, if you have keel rollers IIRC both the Keel Guard and Keel Shield companies don't recommend to use their products and I also believe it says that if the boat actually rests on the bunks they don't recommend using it. Either way I got voted off the "I don't beach the boat island" by the wife so I put one on even though the guard on my LSV sits on the bunks. I don't power load and float onto the trailer so the protection it affords out ways the "its not warrantied" risk. Pulling the glue from the old one off is going to be a 1st class azz pain no matter how it gets done and if acetone doesn't work I am clueless as to a better way, a heat gun might help! If there is exposed fiberglass fiber, you are going to have to fix/seal it to keep it from absorbing water or it will keep moving all the way down the hull requiring even more money later. If it is just the gel coat scuffed off down to the fiberglass resin you can most likely get away with prepping the exposed area and re-gel coating it with color matched gel coat. Putting the keel guard on your boat sounds like it might require you to take to a dealer with a lift because of the rollers unfortunately.

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sp0tts

I got the Spectrum gel (2 part) from them directly as they color match by manufacturer and year. It came in a plastic screw top jar w/ squeeze tube of hardner and instructions.

Spectrum sells both paste kits and actual liquid gel. Sounds like you got the paste kit if it's two part (liquid is a 3 part application), but I don't want to assume. If it looks like this: http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=674757 you have the paste kit. I prefer the spray as it's easier to blend and I've seen paste kits not match as well with color, but the thread I linked should be able to help you quite a bit. The problem with the liquid though is they don't sell smaller quantities (sometimes a local dealer will sell you a litte).

A couple helpful hints:

1. I wouldn't recomend taping unless there is another color of gel, a sticker or hardware (thru-hull ect.) near where you're working (if you gel right up to a tape line it'll be harder to blend in when you sand).

2. Wetsand in an X pattern. Back and forth or circles won't make it blend as well.

3. If the color looks off, let it sit in the sun. UV light can do wonders for blending (I realize on the keel this may not be possible, but if you have any other areas you fix).

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jwl019

Did you order the paste kit from Spectrum or get gelcoat in liquid form? The paste kit will most likely have to be spread. The gel I would spray, you should be able to pick up a Preval sprayer at your local paint supply store (Sherwin Williams def. has them).

I actually got a quart of the gel, so was trying to decide how to apply several layers the easiest. Hopefully it will arrive early next week so I can get this fixed soon. The weather is warming up and its almost time to pull it out of hibernation!

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sp0tts

I actually got a quart of the gel, so was trying to decide how to apply several layers the easiest. Hopefully it will arrive early next week so I can get this fixed soon. The weather is warming up and its almost time to pull it out of hibernation!

Your pics look like everything is in pretty good shape and smooth. The better the condition of the surface you're starting with is, the easier it will be to sand and blend in your final coat. In other words, prep is key and starting with a wavey surface will just get worse once you spray gel. Definitely spray the gel. And be sure to let everything completely dry (24hrs) before sanding or applying the next coat. Most of the tips I left in my last post came right from the service manager at my dealer. I've only done minor cosmetic repairs to one of my old boats when a bumper slid out, but he was kind enough to show me some tricks in the shop on a boat that hit a dock and did some major damage. I think I forgot to mention, make sure you sand with a block. Good luck...

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jwl019

Most of my supplies came in, still waiting for a few more to come in. I have removed most of the sticky from the old keel guard, that has been a job in itself! A can of acetone, a applicator pad, and alot of elbow grease! Hopefully finish removing the rest tonight. Tomorrow evening/night, I am going to start with the gel. Hopefully it will turn out ok. The instructions said to use some 40, 80, 100 grit sandpaper to rough up the area, does that sound to course? I was planning on 280 up to 320 for that. sports, you answered my next question about do I sand between coats of gel, thanks.

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