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jrad12381

Possible Subwoofer Options

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jrad12381

OK I am planning my stereo for the MXZ and would like to have everything at my house waiting to install when the boat arrives in March. I have been doing some research on subwoofers, and have came up with a list of some possible canidates that may work, but with a lot of these subwoofers I have no experience with so I was going to post up the list I have compiled, and see if anyone here has experience good, or bad with any of these subs. I am leaning towards going with 1-15", but will consider going with 1, or 2 12" subs. The subds I have been looking at are mostly high power subds that cross between spl/sq.

Here is a list of amps I am considering bassed on subwoofer choice.

Rockford Fosgate T1500bdcp

Sundown 1500 D

Audioque 2200 D

Now here is the list of subwoofers. Some may not work depending on proper airspace needed. I will have to take some measurment on an MXZ to see what type of box I can fit.

- Exile Big 15

- MTX 9515

- Sundown nightshade

- REXXX

- Digital design 9515, or 3515

- FI - SP415, H.BTL, or H.BL

- Alpine type R

- Orion HCCA 152

- Audioque HDC315, or HCD415

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gorilla

I run a Big 15 in a sealed box on my boat. Love the way it sounds, very responsive and very clean sound. I would recommend a 15" over 12" any day unless you can't get the 15" to fit. Just make sure to have enough power/watts to make it work the way it should. :thumbup:

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thtrog

Different helm and faceplate on the MXZ, I'll share more as Mike's Liquid Audio completes mine. I can tell you it's a Kicker square sub.

Before shot...

PB300001.jpg

Edited by thtrog

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cowwboy

Personally I think the 9515 is a bit overkill and the dd3515 is a amazing motor structure and can't beat being hand made in Oklahoma.

Seems the alpine and mtx don't fit the rest of the list.

Most every other sub on that list will make you happy with the correct enclosure and power.

I run a dd 3512 with 1500w on it and get lots of compliments on it.

Keep us posted on what ya get.

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Earmark Marine

jrad,

I won't comment on any particular brand but really don't need to in order to put you on the right path.

First, you should determine the maximum external displacement that you can justify given legroom and any other obstacles. We use a chart of typical extenal displacement conversions for quick and easy elimination. Just measure the max inches and divide by 1728 for cu.ft. displacement. For example:

12" sealed...1.87 ext. cu.ft.

12" bass-reflex...2.97 ext. cu.ft.

15" sealed...2.65 ext.cu.ft bare minimum and 3.35 cu.ft. typical.

15" bass-reflex...4.5 ext. cu.ft.

You can then convert that to an internal gross displacement based on the wall thickness of your enclosure knowing it will work.

Next, you should model what each woofer size and configuration in various types of enclosures will give you. Obviously you would like the most surface area to start with. A 12" might be 81 sq.in., a 13.5" might be 104 sq.in., a 15" might be 122 sq.in. and dual 12"s might be 162 sq.in. total. However, the largest woofer surface area doesn't always give you the best performance within confined enclosure dimensions. For example, within the identical brand and series of woofer a 15" in a 'sealed' enclosure might give you a given output with a half power point at a given frequency. A 12" in a 'bass-reflex' enclosure of nearly the same total displacement might give you an average output within the same usable frequencies of .5 dB more (which isn't significant) but may have a half power roll-off point of 5 to 15 Hz lower that does become more significant. Past a certain point it will be the enclosure that determines the low frequency extension of a woofer. A smaller woofer in an optimum enclosure can give you better deep bass performance than a larger woofer in a compromised enclosure. So, find your maximum enclosure and allow that to determine your ideal woofer and enclosure combination.

When it comes to the driver, there are woofers that are more sound quality oriented and those that are more sound pressure level oriented. Or, you can have a little of both with an incredibly expansive enclosure volume. How different people define sound quality can be all over the map. Its a really subjective issue. Since you have done some reading you might read 'Hoffman's Rule', written by a physicist who's work was adopted by Thiele and Small (as in Thiele Small Parameters) who in turn developed the standards for which enclosure designs are based today. This might change your perspective a little about a woofer that is called a jack of all trades. Plus, this may bring some objectivity to the process. You as the guy that is going to be doing all the listening can decide which direction is best suited for you. There's no real absolute right or wrong way if you are getting exactly what you want.

Once you have a complete woofer/enclosure package in mind that will make the right amplifier match-up much easier.

David

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jrad12381

Personally I think the 9515 is a bit overkill and the dd3515 is a amazing motor structure and can't beat being hand made in Oklahoma.

Seems the alpine and mtx don't fit the rest of the list.

Most every other sub on that list will make you happy with the correct enclosure and power.

I run a dd 3512 with 1500w on it and get lots of compliments on it.

Keep us posted on what ya get.

I mentioned the alpine typr R because in my current vlx I run 2 12' in a borted box, and I think they sound good, and are very affordable. The MTX although I havent heard it, has some impressive specs, and a ton of good reviews.

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Bobby Light

Are you going to build the box or you going to use a prefab box, this will really let you know what limitations you have. Not gonna fit many prefab boxes under the helm for a 12" or 15" sub. If you love the alpine now maybe that's the way to go.

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jrad12381

I am going to attempt to build my own box. We have a great wood shop at my work so I have access to all the right equipment. Probably use 1" MDF, and attempt a prted box. When I get better measurments I will have a better idea of how much room I have to work with, and if a ported box is an option with the sub i go with.

I like my alpine subs and they have heald up great for years, but I am sure that some of the subs listed above will sound much better. I am selling my vlx with all the stereo stuff so I am going to start from sctratch besides 2 amps i already have.

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Bobby Light

Curious to see what kind of space you've got to work with for a sub box on that new boat, I've never seen one in person.

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Cdoogles

Keep us posted, I will be doing the same thing here in about a month!

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old skool malibu

I am going to attempt to build my own box. We have a great wood shop at my work so I have access to all the right equipment. Probably use 1" MDF, and attempt a prted box. When I get better measurments I will have a better idea of how much room I have to work with, and if a ported box is an option with the sub i go with.

I like my alpine subs and they have heald up great for years, but I am sure that some of the subs listed above will sound much better. I am selling my vlx with all the stereo stuff so I am going to start from sctratch besides 2 amps i already have.

Why not go with Baltic Birch over MDF? Baltic Birch is among the most sought after wood in the manufacture of speaker cabinets. Birch has a natural resonance that peaks in the high and low frequencies, which are also the hardest for speakers to reproduce. This resonance compensates for the roll-off of low and high frequencies in the speakers, and evens the tone. Birch is known for having "natural EQ."

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nyryan2001

Yep on the birch and MDF is a nightmare in wet and moist environments. And yes it'll certainly get wet along the floor under the dash.

You need to give us more info so folks can make better reccomendations. What are you looking to do with your stereo? Party cove night club concert or reasonable use? what types of music do you jam out to?

Just FYI, most folks are coming on here about subwoofer setup UPGRADES. That means the 300-500 watt 12" sub they have or the boat came with is not enough and they want more.

If you are going with a single 12 I'd go big. I did a quick budget throw in system in mine, Alpine TypeRs in tubes under the dash, and now working and upgrade on them now. Re XXX, Kicker SoloX @ 2000watts, Exile etc.... if you like to party, go big and get it right the first time.

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martinarcher

Why not go with Baltic Birch over MDF? Baltic Birch is among the most sought after wood in the manufacture of speaker cabinets. Birch has a natural resonance that peaks in the high and low frequencies, which are also the hardest for speakers to reproduce. This resonance compensates for the roll-off of low and high frequencies in the speakers, and evens the tone. Birch is known for having "natural EQ."

:plus1: on the birch. That's what I built mine out of and it is still like new two years later and the floor has certainly been wet around the sub from wet drivers in and out.

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Murphy8166

Are you guys using Baltic Birch that you have to get at a lumber specialty store or China Birch you can get at home depot.

I looked at some 3/4" Baltic Birch that is about $50 for a 5'x5' sheet versus the China Birch at Home Depot for $40 for a standard 4'x8' sheet.

I agree that Baltic Birch is a much higher grade Birch versus the crap at Home Depot. Just wanted to make sure we are all talking about the same stuff.

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Bobby Light

I'll take mdf and coat the crap out of it with resin. Has always worked for me.

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MLA

Birch ply all day long. Its easier to work with then MDF IMO LOL IIRC.

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