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phataz5

Turn down tips

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phataz5

Hi guys i am looking at putting turn down tips on my 98 response and was just thinking what about the flaps that stop water from back tracking up there as the tips dont have any? will the water go up to the engine?

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my malibu

They have built in baffles for this purpose.

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Malibudude

They have built in baffles for this purpose.

Yes exactly no need for the rubber flaps with these.

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phataz5

wow thanks guys ,i got them from bakesmarine , on they go then............:)

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Soon2BV

My link

here is a short write up and some pictures from my install on a 2008 LSV.

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martinarcher

My link

here is a short write up and some pictures from my install on a 2008 LSV.

Gotta love the help here on the Crew! werule.gif

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Nitrousbird

I'd like to do them, but the prices I've seen for them seem far too much for what it is.

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pennery

I'd like to do them, but the prices I've seen for them seem far too much for what it is.

I thought that as well however I heard the difference in sound from the engine between my 10 VLX to Old School Malibu's VTX with the turndowns and it was alot quieter. I will be putting them on my next boat for sure.

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Cory

Phataz5, Not sure if you have already done your project, but I thought I would offer some advice. I did this project two winters ago on my 2008 Vride (purchased the SS turndown exhaust from Bake's also). The tricks to know are:

1) buy a strap wrench of sufficient length (e.g., 10" or so) from Lowes/HD. They are about $10-$20 (search on strap wrench Lowes/HD and you find wrenches that have a rubber belt--this tool works perfect for this application). After removing the screws that secure the black plastic trim to the hull and the removing the exhaust tubes from the inside, wrap the strap of the wrench around the 1 inch plastic trim that sticks out on the backside and rotate the plastic exhaust trim to break the silicon seal. I found no other tool nearly as effective to cleanly and simply break the old silicon seal to remove the old plastic exhausts.

2) predrill small pilot holes for your new screw holes, then use a 3/4" countersink bit to create a shallow chamfer around each screw hole in the gel coat that is slightly wider then the final screw hole you intend to drill, then drill the final screw holes (I stepped up one drill bit size at a time). Creating this shallow chamfer will help prevent chips in the gel coat that extend beyond the hole you are drilling. Carefull drilling the holes, it is so easy for the bit to grab too much material, bite into the fiberglass, and create a crack in the gel coat.

3) fill all screw holes with silicon before you finally screw in the screws. Whatever you do, do NOT over tighten the screws!!! If you strip the thread pattern in the fiberglass you are screwed... The screws do not need to be too tight and the silicon in the holes will help secure them when it cures.

4) let the silicon cure for at least 2 days before attempting remount the exhaust pipes on the inside

Edited by Cory

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wakesetter8796

What if you already have the silent ones? Would it make a difference and how do you do it with those on? Mine are SS, but they are not turned down, just straight.

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