Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

Sign in to follow this  
Soon2BV

2" seat lift project

Recommended Posts

Soon2BV

I am starting one of my "winter" projects before putting the boat in storage.

I am raising the seats 2". I have captains chairs, so I have one of them out and have the dimensions for a lifter.

The plan is a 1" x 2" aluminum square tube "frame" to go between the aluminim plate on the seat base and the seat itself.

The frame will be about 10" x 13"

I will post pictures as I go.

Share this post


Link to post
martinarcher

Good project. I need to do this as well as my seat is too low for my buddy and he's 6' 6". He even sits on the throwable. LOL.gif My wife is 4' 10" and won't drive the new boat. I hope raising the seat will change that.

Share this post


Link to post
wdr

I did the 2" lift last year and think I may go to a 4" this winter. 2" puts the window frame almost in my line of sight @ 5'9". I used plastic pucks similar to what is used in truck body lifts and it workd great.

Share this post


Link to post
REW

How high is the seat bollister? I think that is what I will need to make the wife happy with the seat level.

Pics will be good, makes it easier for the rest of us :biggrin:

Share this post


Link to post
wdr

The bolster is @ 6" tall when flipped up but compresses when you sit on it so it is really kind of worthless. I use the bolster even with my 2" lift hence my decision to go to a 4" lift so I wont' have to use it all of the time. REW if you go with the 4" lift I think it would work for your wife. Using the throwable also gives you some more options.

Share this post


Link to post
Soon2BV

Even with the bolster up my wife still has to add a cushion to sit on. She is about 5-1.

Share this post


Link to post
Vettesetter

I like to look just over the windshield, and the seat raise was on the list of things to do. I don't like the look of the seat raised 2-6" so I was thinking... how hard would it be to take the windshield apart, have the glass cut 3" off the top and shorten all the extrusions, so it would be a "chopped" windshield, giving more visibility, sleeker lines and the seat would still be low, and not look like a highchair. Anyone thought of that?

Share this post


Link to post
Ndawg12

I like to look just over the windshield, and the seat raise was on the list of things to do. I don't like the look of the seat raised 2-6" so I was thinking... how hard would it be to take the windshield apart, have the glass cut 3" off the top and shorten all the extrusions, so it would be a "chopped" windshield, giving more visibility, sleeker lines and the seat would still be low, and not look like a highchair. Anyone thought of that?

:vomit:

Share this post


Link to post
Michigan boarder

I like to look just over the windshield, and the seat raise was on the list of things to do. I don't like the look of the seat raised 2-6" so I was thinking... how hard would it be to take the windshield apart, have the glass cut 3" off the top and shorten all the extrusions, so it would be a "chopped" windshield, giving more visibility, sleeker lines and the seat would still be low, and not look like a highchair. Anyone thought of that?

I think that's the best solution.

I raised my seat 2" wtih pipe nipples I painted black. That, with the throw cushion, makes it perfect for my wife for pulling surf and wake boards.

Share this post


Link to post
davemac

I bought some white vinyl/pvc molding stock at home depot approx 1 1/2" x 1", and cut two pieces approx 1 1/2 feet long and put them on top of the existing seat rails. After a year, I did the same thing again (essentially doubling up on what I had already installed).

For fastening, I found it easiest to buy threaded road and s/s washers, and cut the rod to length after install. I used nylock nuts w/ washers on each end. I did not want to remove the existing hardware/fasteners from the deck of the boat...for fear of stripping threads.

I do wish the Malibu design team would pay more attention to driver ergonomics...as it is one of the few complaints I have w/ my boat. It seems to vary by year whether people find the seat too high or too low.

Share this post


Link to post
Soon2BV

Here is a picture of "Version 1" installed.

This is 2" x 2" aluminum square tube, 1/16" wall.

Two holes drilled for the seat anchor bolts.

Holes clearance for 5/16 bolts.

The anchor bolts go through the cast seat, the 2x2, and then the aluminum plate that is on top of the swivel.

Swivel and slide still work like as original.

V2 will be similar, except I am going to make the pieces 1/2" longer to come to the back of the plate, and get them anodized black.

I have stainless steel bolts and locknuts on order

post-7974-021875700 1320456594_thumb.jpg

Edited by Soon2BV

Share this post


Link to post
martinarcher
Thumbup.gif Nice job! Looks good!

Share this post


Link to post
DONTW8

I like to look just over the windshield, and the seat raise was on the list of things to do. I don't like the look of the seat raised 2-6" so I was thinking... how hard would it be to take the windshield apart, have the glass cut 3" off the top and shorten all the extrusions, so it would be a "chopped" windshield, giving more visibility, sleeker lines and the seat would still be low, and not look like a highchair. Anyone thought of that?

I have a lower profile windshield on my Spyder.

My baseball cap keeps blowing off.

I prefer the taller windshield on the 1991 Sunsetter and 2003 Prostar.

The movable bolster in the 2003 Prostar works real well.

Regarding spacers:

My boat seats are swivel seats on a 3 " pedastal.

However, I have used TREX as a spacer for my boat trailer fenders which I raised.

Stuff works great in marine applications.

2x4 is 1.5" x 3.5" actual

4x4 is 3.5" x 3.5" actual

Trex does not have much strength in span width applications.

You can bolt through it or use Threaded LAG Bolts.

Share this post


Link to post
MalibuTime

Here is a picture of "Version 1" installed.

This is 2" x 2" aluminum square tube, 1/16" wall.

Two holes drilled for the seat anchor bolts.

Holes clearance for 5/16 bolts.

The anchor bolts go through the cast seat, the 2x2, and then the aluminum plate that is on top of the swivel.

Swivel and slide still work like as original.

V2 will be similar, except I am going to make the pieces 1/2" longer to come to the back of the plate, and get them anodized black.

I have stainless steel bolts and locknuts on order

That is pretty much what I did only I used C-channel. I think I went around a 3" raise. If I was motivated I could build a drawer to slide in there too.

Share this post


Link to post
Soon2BV

If I was motivated I could build a drawer to slide in there too.

[/quotE

I've been thinking about that. Seems like it would be a good place to store things that aren't needed often but that I want to keep in the boat (lake maps, owners book, etc.)

Share this post


Link to post
MalibuTime

If I was motivated I could build a drawer to slide in there too.

I've been thinking about that. Seems like it would be a good place to store things that aren't needed often but that I want to keep in the boat (lake maps, owners book, etc.)

Glock :guns:

It is about the right size, but can't really see needing it.

Share this post


Link to post
Soon2BV

Glock :guns:

It is about the right size, but can't really see needing it.

wrong thread ...

Share this post


Link to post
skyskier

A friend of mine has a new Supra. When he pushes a button the seat goes up and down. Amazing.

Share this post


Link to post
Chris

Here is a picture of "Version 1" installed.

This is 2" x 2" aluminum square tube, 1/16" wall.

Two holes drilled for the seat anchor bolts.

Holes clearance for 5/16 bolts.

The anchor bolts go through the cast seat, the 2x2, and then the aluminum plate that is on top of the swivel.

Swivel and slide still work like as original.

V2 will be similar, except I am going to make the pieces 1/2" longer to come to the back of the plate, and get them anodized black.

I have stainless steel bolts and locknuts on order

Very nice, needed mod. Did u take any other pics while doing version 2?

Share this post


Link to post
stooy

We did this mod to our 07 Wakesetter VLX. It is fantastic.

Thanks Guys

Share this post


Link to post
Soon2BV

Very nice, needed mod. Did u take any other pics while doing version 2?

I will get some when I get the boat back (at the dealer for depth finder fix).

Share this post


Link to post
skibreeze

Here's mine, just used what I had in the garage. I used 1x2" tubing cut to length and some 1/4" rivets, this way it can easily be returned to stock.

20120604_140217.jpg

Share this post


Link to post

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...