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What the #%&#


smooth as glass

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which would be the hose going to the air intake on a car? EGR? what would happen if that got blocked? Don't ask why I'm asking? hahaha

It depends on the which hose and what car. Got a pic of it? I take it you have a CEL? LOL.gif

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  • martinarcher

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So could you have both? what is on modern cars?

Most modern cars will have both systems, however the EGR system is "going away" because manufactures are accomplishing the same results with variable cam timing.

In addition to what martin explained NOx is produced only during exessively high combustion temps. The re-introduction of exhaust into the combustion chamber serves to lower combustion temperatures and thus reduce NOx. A common misunderstanding is that exhaust is reburned.

The PCV system collects blow by gasses and instead of venting them to atmosphere reburns them. It also serves to keep a negative pressure in the crankcase thus reducing external leaks.

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It depends on the which hose and what car. Got a pic of it? I take it you have a CEL? LOL.gif

Don't know CEL, but I put a cold air intake (K&N) on my hemi and the new hose was soft and crimped unbeknownst to me for about 2000 miles. Drove fine. I then got a hose supporter deal that goes around teh hose and allows it to bend without collapsing. Basically, trying to learn whether I did any damage.

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Don't know CEL, but I put a cold air intake (K&N) on my hemi and the new hose was soft and crimped unbeknownst to me for about 2000 miles. Drove fine. I then got a hose supporter deal that goes around teh hose and allows it to bend without collapsing. Basically, trying to learn whether I did any damage.

Your problem would have been PCV. No it should not have any damage. EGR systems are metal tubing for heat.

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Most boats do not have a PCV valve. Most boats have only a plastic fitting going from valve cover to hose to spark arrestor. As the engine runs there will be are pulsations inside the crank case these hoses just keep the engine compartment clean by directing the pulses through the hose into the spark arrestor instead of all over your valve cover (they can also be flammable is another reason). The reason a car has a PCV valve is emissions, the air police want those fumes to be captured so they make the manufactures suck the fumes out of the crank case so if they put a manifold vacuum line directly to the valve cover it would be like your vehicle had a huge vacuum leek so they made this little device to regulate the vacuum called a PCV valve so the engine would still run normal. The point of this story is if the hose goes to the flame arrestor=no need for PCV valve IF the hose goes to manifold=need PCV valve

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I posted some pics a long time ago, and I had a similar issue with my '95. I always had an oil film on the top of the engine and the arrestor was always dripping with oil as the season went on.

To eliminate the issue, I drilled and tapped a fitting into the back of the carb leveling plate for a PCV hose connection. Cars have had this for years and I could not understand why boats didn't. This modification cuts down on the venting of crankcase fumes escaping into the air and boat, the oil film on the engine, and is also good for the engine oil life.

I haven't renewed my membership due to personal finance reasons, but I can send some pics if you email me. I think that still works. Maybe!

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From OP of What the #%&@?......Went for a spin to calibrate speedos and thought I'd check the breather for more gunk. unfortunately more was there! Rechecked the dipstick and oil looked fine but well over full, so drained half a quart and it looks like MUD! Again what F#&%! Can't imagine that much condensation. Maybe a head or manifold gasket? Can you get condensation back from exhuast? Or did I just overfill last oil change and created a frothing machine? Not sure where to go from here except change oil. Anyone have a suggestion? Mike :cry:

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From OP of What the #%&@?......Went for a spin to calibrate speedos and thought I'd check the breather for more gunk. unfortunately more was there! Rechecked the dipstick and oil looked fine but well over full, so drained half a quart and it looks like MUD! Again what F#&%! Can't imagine that much condensation. Maybe a head or manifold gasket? Can you get condensation back from exhuast? Or did I just overfill last oil change and created a frothing machine? Not sure where to go from here except change oil. Anyone have a suggestion? Mike :cry:

Sorry to hear. Too early to point to a culprit yet. How does it run? How's the temp? Just to say I did, I would inspect all spark plugs and see if one/some are getting water. Since this has been happening, did the engine overheat badly, or freeze?

Good luck,

Steve B.

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Sorry to hear. Too early to point to a culprit yet. How does it run? How's the temp? Just to say I did, I would inspect all spark plugs and see if one/some are getting water. Since this has been happening, did the engine overheat badly, or freeze?

Good luck,

Steve B.

Runs fine WOT today 4850rpm 47mph temp165 and nothing out of ordinary, this boat has been faultless cept normal maintenance issues.

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If your oil looks like a frothy mess you have water getting into an oil passage from somewhere in the engine. It could be a breached head gasket, cracked head, cracked block, etc. The added water into the oil makes the oil level rise by displacing it. Since the dipstick doesn't reach the bottom of the pan, the oil on top looks fine if the engine has been sitting. If it is mixed up with the water during running, it would look frothy/milky on the dipstick with water present.

Have you had any below freezing temps yet this season that the boat would have been exposed to that could have frozen water in the block and causes a crack?

If not, I would lean toward a head gasket. Any whitish smoke out of the exhaust from under the platform when it is idling? It would be good to pull each plug too and see if any of the plugs look contaminated by oil or water.

A compression test should help pinpoint a head gasket breach as well. A sharp drop in one or two cylinders compared to others will help indicate which head could have a gasket with a breach. This isn't always full proof if the breach is only bridging a oil/water passage and not a cylinder, but is still worth checking. Pulling one head is easier than both.

The good news is Chevy 350 head gasket kits are cheap and it's something you can tackle yourself in the off season if your willing.

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What Martin said.

However you do need to note that a blown HG can still pass a compression test.

edit: actually martin covered that...

Another hint....pull the plugs. if one is much cleaner than the others, that is the cylinder where the gasket is blown.

Edited by Ruffdog
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If your oil looks like a frothy mess you have water getting into an oil passage from somewhere in the engine. It could be a breached head gasket, cracked head, cracked block, etc. The added water into the oil makes the oil level rise by displacing it. Since the dipstick doesn't reach the bottom of the pan, the oil on top looks fine if the engine has been sitting. If it is mixed up with the water during running, it would look frothy/milky on the dipstick with water present.

Have you had any below freezing temps yet this season that the boat would have been exposed to that could have frozen water in the block and causes a crack?

If not, I would lean toward a head gasket. Any whitish smoke out of the exhaust from under the platform when it is idling? It would be good to pull each plug too and see if any of the plugs look contaminated by oil or water.

A compression test should help pinpoint a head gasket breach as well. A sharp drop in one or two cylinders compared to others will help indicate which head could have a gasket with a breach. This isn't always full proof if the breach is only bridging a oil/water passage and not a cylinder, but is still worth checking. Pulling one head is easier than both.

The good news is Chevy 350 head gasket kits are cheap and it's something you can tackle yourself in the off season if your willing.

Wow, I never put 2 + 2 together with that, but that would exactly explain why the OP had high level's, I think twice now.

Off topic: Wouldn't it be cool if there was some kind of MRI thing you could do for an engine? That would reveal faulty inner pieces parts.

Steve B.

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Wow, I never put 2 + 2 together with that, but that would exactly explain why the OP had high level's, I think twice now.

Off topic: Wouldn't it be cool if there was some kind of MRI thing you could do for an engine? That would reveal faulty inner pieces parts.

Steve B.

If they make one for a decent price I'll take 2. Biggrin.gif

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Wow, I never put 2 + 2 together with that, but that would exactly explain why the OP had high level's, I think twice now.

Off topic: Wouldn't it be cool if there was some kind of MRI thing you could do for an engine? That would reveal faulty inner pieces parts.

Steve B.

The closest thing I have to that is a scope with a mini camera and flexible wand......you know like the one doctors use to......never mind. :unsure:

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Right, the school owns a snap on capable of video etc. fun little gadget and like Pete said its good for retrieving dropped bolts tools etc.

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From OP of What the #%&@?......Went for a spin to calibrate speedos and thought I'd check the breather for more gunk. unfortunately more was there! Rechecked the dipstick and oil looked fine but well over full, so drained half a quart and it looks like MUD! Again what F#&%! Can't imagine that much condensation. Maybe a head or manifold gasket? Can you get condensation back from exhuast? Or did I just overfill last oil change and created a frothing machine? Not sure where to go from here except change oil. Anyone have a suggestion? Mike :cry:

If you have drained your oil before it has cooled, the mudd look may be from "frothing". When the oil in the crank case is too high it can foam up which can cause a drop in oil pressure readings. This is why I hate it when people suck oil oil the dipstick on changes and then replace the oil with the recommended amount, it usually results in too high of oil levels. Let you oil sit for a while, drain completely and inspect before jumping to conclusions. If, you have run your engine with too much oil,( more than a quart high) you will eventually experience a drop in pressure and the alarm will beep, ignoring this will cause major damage.

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Oh how I hope Gopackgo is correct. I will look at my situation tomorrow. Thanks for all the input and advice. What an amazing wealth of knowledge here. I must say I've been with the site from almost day one and still think the group and the mods are the best in cyberspace. Mike :thumbup:

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Oh how I hope Gopackgo is correct. I will look at my situation tomorrow. Thanks for all the input and advice. What an amazing wealth of knowledge here. I must say I've been with the site from almost day one and still think the group and the mods are the best in cyberspace. Mike :thumbup:

He may be right. Without seeing the oil it is hard to say. It won't take long for the air to go away though.

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He may be right. Without seeing the oil it is hard to say. It won't take long for the air to go away though.

Good point. If the oil has been sitting for any length of time and still looks like milky/muddy oil we have water present.

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Oh how I hope Gopackgo is correct. I will look at my situation tomorrow. Thanks for all the input and advice. What an amazing wealth of knowledge here. I must say I've been with the site from almost day one and still think the group and the mods are the best in cyberspace. Mike :thumbup:

I'm hoping it was just overfilled. Let us know what you find.

Oh and your right.....gotta love the crew!

werule.gif

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Well after a couple days of not running, pulled the filter..no water, held my breath and drained oil, first looked good then about of 1/2 to 1 pint of clear water flowed. :crazy: Could there be that much condensation?????....If not guess I've got a real problem. Pulled the plugs ...all look good....compression 185 to 200 all cylinders. No apparent sign of water on plugs or in cylinder. We haven't had a freeze yet and it was well protected last winter. I've never overheated it and its all fresh water here. I rebuilt a seized 350 when I was 20, but I didn't know anybetter! So could tackle the head gaskets, if thats where I should start????? My Clymers says do an oil cooler test at this point. I thought all I had was a tranny oil cooler. Nearest dealer is 5 hours. I'm almost desparate......would love some suggestions. Mike.

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