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Heater do not work under 1000rpm


Gabrielwakesetter

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Hi guys,

I'm wondering if I have a problem or it is the way it is supposed to work my heater. BUT unless the engine goes above 2000rpm (aprox) it only blows cold air. after you rev the engine, it does work great and the air coming out is fairly hot... I have a Wakesetter 2010 with a monsoon 340.

any help will be appreciated.

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Mine is the same way and the dealer told me that because of the low RPM's, there is not a sufficient volume of hot water circulating through the block to heat. The water at lower RPM's is not being heated by a faster revving (heat generating) motor.

You simply have to idle a little faster to get the heat.

Made sense to me.......

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Mine is the same way and the dealer told me that because of the low RPM's, there is not a sufficient volume of hot water circulating through the block to heat. The water at lower RPM's is not being heated by a faster revving (heat generating) motor.

You simply have to idle a little faster to get the heat.

Made sense to me.......

Jay, it does and it does not to me. That is why I was asking if someone can make it work when idling...Obviously some people dont that is why the dealer says so...it is not a big issue, just want to know.

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shawn and eye

is that a modification to the original setup ? or the way it should be to work ?? Not sure how it is in my boat but I will check this weekend. I'm assuming that you guys have seen it working....

Thakn you all !!!

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Malibu, after surveying some dealers (!?!) a year or two ago, went back to not installing the heater craft Y fitting for the return line on the heaters. Without this, or a pump to circulate the water, the internal water pressure at the manifold (outlet source) is insufficient to circulate water through the heater circuit at idle. Once the engine gets above 2000 rpm there is enough pressure to once again move enough water and heat up the heater core.

This is _normal_ as factory shipped. I disagree with this decision if you hadn't gathered that by now.

The answer is to install the heater craft Y fitting on the intake side of the raw water pump, or install a circulating pump. Heatercraft uses the same pump as the shower system, but I've also seen a really nice (magnetic?) pump that Malibu uses on the LS/LY series motors that seems to be the way to go.

Or, get an engine with closed cooling, and then the heater blows hot air 24/7. :)

Peter

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Like Peter said, this is a common issue.... with practically all inboard boats with fresh water cooling. Heatercraft developed a fix for it years ago..... the Y pipe.... which uses the fresh water pump rather than the engine's water pump to circulate the water thru the core.

Give the guys at Skidim.com a call if your dealer isn't aware of this. There are like 1000 threads on this forum, Wakeworld & TeamTalk about this.

21505.jpg

Edited by Bill_AirJunky
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Like Peter said, this is a common issue.... with practically all inboard boats with fresh water cooling. Heatercraft developed a fix for it years ago..... the Y pipe.... which uses the fresh water pump rather than the engine's water pump to circulate the water thru the core.

Give the guys at Skidim.com a call if your dealer isn't aware of this. There are like 1000 threads on this forum, Wakeworld & TeamTalk about this.

21505.jpg

Right on. I installed my heater with one of these "Y's" I picked up form a crew member. My heater blows really hot air no matter what the engine RPM. Thumbup.gif

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I installed my heater with one of these "Y's" I picked up form a crew member. My heater blows really hot air no matter what the engine RPM. Thumbup.gif

:plus1: Install it in front of the raw water pump for best results.

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I have one of these "Y"s on my list to buy. There is a plastic version and a metal (brass) version. Any preference? Will the plastic one crack after a while? Will the metal one "go out of round" or deteriorate (by galvonic corrosion) after a while?

Also... is this considered a hijack? (New to posting). I just figured it would be informative for all of us here.

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There is a plastic version and a metal (brass) version. Any preference? Will the plastic one crack after a while? Will the metal one "go out of round" or deteriorate (by galvonic corrosion) after a while?

Don't go plastic. :no: Especially if you're going to install it in front of the raw water pump. If it did break, your boat would fill with water even if the motor wasn't running.. :Doh:

Also... is this considered a hijack? (New to posting). I just figured it would be informative for all of us here.

Directly related to the OT. You're good. :thumbup:

Edited by NorCaliBu
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I did the Y Pipe thing, installing it BEFORE the raw water pump, about 5 years ago. It works fine, with no issues since I installed it.

Everythings cool now, I mean everythings hot now, I mean it works good.........O Whatever.......the heater works at all engine speeds.

Beau

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and I thought I was going to ask something silly....glad to hear (actualy read) that I was not crazy and there is a good solution...to this "hot" topic.

The good news is that I have 6 months to install it. Summer is starting in Buenos Aires...

G

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I assumed the one from Skidim was plastic since it was cheaper then another site's. But, I just called them and it is metal.

Even if it is plastic, it won't be alone. You will find more plastic parts in the cooling system & the shower already on your boat.

Edited by Bill_AirJunky
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