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STE(Silent Tip Exhaust) by Hydro Power ??


vec

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Peter, soup-to-nuts, what approximately would the total parts and labor run if I get them from you and have a boat guy here install, do you think?

Hank, you're asking me something I have no control over. :)

The tips are $299 - there are no other parts needed. Find out what your boat guy charges per hour and multiply by 3, and we'll get a good estimate. Or better yet, get the guy to just give you a flat rate fee to install them. Say, $200 for example.

Or, buy a case of good beer, invite your friends over that own the following: Air compressor, 3/8" Air Ratchet, 7/16", 1/2", & 9/16" sockets for said air ratchet, Cordless screw gun with a couple of new tips, a 5/16" nut driver (otherwise known as a hose clamp tool), and a radio. Pick up some BoatLife Lifeseal, a couple of old blankets for boat protection from FWT (Friends with tools), and have at it. It'll be another good boat memory.

Peter. :)

ps - for each friend past one, add 1 hour of labor to complete the job.

For each female friend past one, add 1 hour of distraction time per male friend.

Edited by SmoothWaterMan
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I am intrigued. Someone put them on a V-Drive and tell us if there is any improvement!! I build electric vehicles so I crossed the demasculating line of a good healthy engine rumble a LONG time ago. :)

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ps - for each friend past one, add 1 hour of labor to complete the job.

For each female friend past one, add 1 hour of distraction time per male friend.

ROFL.gif

Peter, I have a '99 Sportster LX. I am a solid around-the-house and in-the-garage DIYer, but this is my first boat. For a Sporty, what are the specific steps involved? I have read that removing the rear seat back is a job in and of itself.

Thanks.

Brian

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ps - for each friend past one, add 1 hour of labor to complete the job.

For each female friend past one, add 1 hour of distraction time per male friend.

ROFL.gif

I have read that removing the rear seat back is a job in and of itself.

Thanks.

Brian

I did it last Summer. Not that bad. You just need patience and a couple hours.

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I would have to say that Centurion is the loudest, b/c the sidesweeps are completely out of the water. We demo'd one and didn't like the noise. I don't know about you guys, but my malibu v-drive (with turn downs and silent rider mufflers) is louder than our old DD 94" prostar.

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I would have to say that Centurion is the loudest, b/c the sidesweeps are completely out of the water. We demo'd one and didn't like the noise. I don't know about you guys, but my malibu v-drive (with turn downs and silent rider mufflers) is louder than our old DD 94" prostar.

The side exhaust is about the only thing that I really like about the new Centurions. A quiet exhaust is nice for just putting around and for party days with lots of people to talk to, for actually skiing and boarding behind there is now better music then the howl of straight pipes. Chevy_anim.gif

Joe

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Peter, I have a '99 Sportster LX. I am a solid around-the-house and in-the-garage DIYer, but this is my first boat. For a Sporty, what are the specific steps involved? I have read that removing the rear seat back is a job in and of itself.

Thanks.

Brian

Bri, as 88 Skier mentioned, it takes a bit of patience. The 99 Sporty has a full wrap rear seat leanback.

This unit has studs (so to speak) in the leanback, that are bolted through the top deck fiberglass. To access the nuts the best tools are an air ratchet and deep drive socket, and/or a ratcheting wrench. You'll need to remove the rear step pad and vent on the top deck, and then unscrew the airbox. Slide the airbox out of the way, and you can stretch your arm in to both sides to remove the nuts holding the leanback. Once you are sure you got ALL of them, you can lay on the floor and reach in under each gunnel to remove the nuts and/or lag bolts on each side. Once all off, you can flex each corner of the leanback into the boat and pull the unit forward and out.

With that gone you simply unscrew the screws holding the two fuel tank brackets to the floor, and slide the tank forward. I would expect you'll need to loosen the fill line clamps and that will pull off in order to come far enough forward. You should be able to then reach over the tank to remove the clamps holding the tips on, and then re-install the clamps once you slide the new tips in from the transom.

Make sense?

Hope it helps anyhow,

Peter :)

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I don't know, I can hear the CC coming down the lake. And definitely MUCH quieter than other boats going back up the lake, with the exhaust pointed right at us.

And the whole DD vs VD thing must be a cockpit war, because the 21.5' Sunscape going up my lake sounds like a freakin' Supra. Not that I mind the rumble. . .but there are those that do.

I've said before and will say again, from the shore, from LOUD TO SOFT and most to least annoying:

Supra

Malibu

MC

CC

And it doesn't seem to matter DD/VD or quiet options. YMMV

If this loud to soft listing of boat manufacturers is the standard, will Malibu move down the list if equipped with STE? how far?

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We are a digression, the whole lot of us...but I digress.
BTW Hank, been meaning to tell you that's an awesome pic of you barefooting in that avatar of yours! (but I digress...) :)
Jack's got a bigger digression on his trunk lid... Biggrin.gif

I don't have time to waste digressing with the dynamic dilettantes. There's more important, on topic Shocking.gif information and quoting going on above.

Crazy.gif

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Make sense?

Hope it helps anyhow,

Peter :)

Peter, followed you every step of the way, thanks! One more question: is there a silicone necessary on the inside or outside when reinstalling the tips?

Thanks again bro!

Brian

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Peter, followed you every step of the way, thanks! One more question: is there a silicone necessary on the inside or outside when reinstalling the tips?

Thanks again bro!

Brian

Just outside Brian. The flange on the new tips are quite good size, and there is plenty of space for a nice little bead of sealant. Just make sure you are using a sealant designated for "below waterline", such as Lifeseal.

Peter. :)

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  • 1 month later...

Fresh News Everyone!

Inline silencers have been developed and produced. These have the same silencing properties as the tips, but will install in 1.5 hrs less time. (You just don't get the polished stainless tips)

Cost on the inline silencers are $245, and are a brushed finish. If you would them polished cost is $265.

To order just call, email, or find them in the service/parts section of our website.

Thanks!

Peter

Smooth Water Sports

Inline1.jpg

Inline2.jpg

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What is the benefit over the fiberglass mufflers? They look easier to install. How much do you think they would quiet a Sporty 310? Do you think I would loose any RPM? I really don't want a quiet boat but, wouldn't mind taking a little of the bite out.

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They would quiet a Sportster alot, since the Sportster standard has no mufflers. (Even with mufflers you will notice a huge difference)

There is no rpm loss or performance loss on any boat/motor....that is the beauty of these silencers. Same speed, same power, less noise.

Peter. :)

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Peter,

Do you know what percentage or how many decibles these would reduce exhaust noise? My Hammerhead sounds really cool, but sometimes I get tired of listening to it.

Bill

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The fellow that did the very analytical sound test comparison tested his Response LXi with Hammerhead before and after installing the tips. The rear seat sound level at the rear seat was 8 decibels lower at both 2050 rpm and 3100 rpm. As the man said, "The reduction in noise is significant".

His boat had the standard mufflers in place, prior to adding the silencing tips.

Peter

edit - a 10 db drop is considered to be 1/2 the sound to the human ear.

Edited by SmoothWaterMan
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The fellow that did the very analytical sound test comparison tested his Response LXi with Hammerhead before and after installing the tips. The rear seat sound level at the rear seat was 8 decibels lower at both 2050 rpm and 3100 rpm. As the man said, "The reduction in noise is significant".

His boat had the standard mufflers in place, prior to adding the silencing tips.

Peter

edit - a 10 db drop is considered to be 1/2 the sound to the human ear.

the third party analysis is great, but have you personally taken a boat out with these tips installed and do you notice a difference in noise level? if yes how much?

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  • 2 years later...
  • 1 year later...

Here's a thread from years and years ago, but I wanted to provide background info for anyone new.

In trying to help out a customer this week who needed to quiet down his boat, I found the pricing on the STE tips is still going up. That's expected of course, but it made me spend some time tracking down my source for the inline silencers that haven't been available since early 2009.

In a nut shell, the Inline Silencer is designed and built the same as the great original STE exhaust tips, but designed for a much simpler install between exhaust manifolds and mufflers on a Direct Drive. (if you missed that part....it's for a direct drive) Essentially you cut out 6-8" of hose and clamp in the silencer. In testing we have found sound-wave canceling ability of the STE silencers is better when placed inline than at the transom. I don't know enough about sound to know if that's due to it's proximity to the engine, or because it's prior to the actual muffler, but in our opinion it works best. (And ease of installation is a huge side benefit)

I may be able to do short run orders, depending on available material, so the question is with Christmas coming - Who and how many owners want a pair?

Thanks,

Peter

5247014396_21ed89b9e1.jpg

Edited by SmoothWaterMan
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They used to be $265/pair, so my goal is to keep it there, but it depends on what we find and volume of run if that's our only answer. I wouldn't offer them if they end up over $300.

Peter

Edited by SmoothWaterMan
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I installed these when they were previously available. I did it at the same time as my motorbox insulation. Together they really quieted things down, but I can't tell you how much "quieting down" was done by each install since they were done at the same time.

The biggest problem that I had was cutting throught the wire that runs through the exhaust hose. That thing is TOUGH. Other than that the exhaust hose is not real flexible so it can be tough to work with, but I did the entire mod in a few hours.

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