Heater Core Connections

[TomMcCauley]

Hi all,

Just picked up a new heater core for my boat. Current one was leaking and disconnected by the previous owner. Since nothing is marked, I am assuming there is no "in" and "out" but that the hoses can be hooked up either way. Can someone confirm this?

Thanks!

[99response]

No difference.

[TomMcCauley]

No difference.

That's what I figured...just wanted to be sure.

[TomMcCauley]

No difference.

And forgot to say THANKS!

[Bill_AirJunky]

Yea, no difference..... also, another suggestion. Make sure the case is mounted so the connections are at the bottom so it will drain easily. Later we can show you how to put connections on the hoses so you just have to open them up & the whole thing drains in seconds.

Edited May 13, 2011 by Bill_AirJunky

[TomMcCauley]

Yea, no difference..... also, another suggestion. Make sure the case is mounted so the connections are at the bottom so it will drain easily. Let we can show you how to put connection on the hoses so you just have to open them up & the whole thing drains in seconds.

Thank you...where can I find out about putting those connections on? I do have the hoses mounted down.

[shawndoggy]

Bill is that your setup?

http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-47153-Radiator-Flush-Tee/dp/B000DCO5DS/ref=sr_1_17?m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1304009246&sr=1-17

[Bill_AirJunky]

Yep, thats what I used. One on each line, down low in the bilge.

There is also a how-to written up in the DIY section on this site where they talk about using quick release garden hose type fittings. The thing I like about using the Ts & caps is that I can install/remove the cap with one hand pretty easily. But have a tough time getting both hands down there to reattach the exhaust hoses.

[shawndoggy]

personally, I'm using the garden hose adapters. On each hose I've got an on off ball valve that goes to a Y with on off valves on each side of the Y. Very easy to reach one handed and I like the idea of being able to shut off the main valve on each line to disable the heater and then to open both sides of the Ys on both hoses and blow the heater out. Probably overkill but I'm just installing it and it seemed to make sense at the time.

[Bill_AirJunky]

The valve idea is a good one..... no caps to lose.

But the KEY to using gravity to safely & consistently drain your heater core is that the system be setup so that it's DOWNHILL from the core to the drain. That means those valves have to be at the lowest part of the bilge, and your core has to be installed up off the floor a bit & with the hose fittings on the bottom edge. Any other way & water can get trapped & freeze.

Edited May 13, 2011 by Bill_AirJunky

[shawndoggy]

I'm not planning on relying on gravity alone. with my setup it should be very easy to hook up an extension hose to one of the Y valves and blow the circuit out.

[martinarcher]

The valve idea is a good one..... no caps to lose.

But the KEY to using gravity to safely & consistently drain your heater core is that the system be setup so that it's DOWNHILL from the core to the drain. That means those valves have to be at the lowest part of the bilge, and your core has to be installed up off the floor a bit & with the hose fittings on the bottom edge. Any other way & water can get trapped & freeze.

You use any compressed air to blow it all out? I know my install is going to force me to run a bit of hose along the gunnel that will be above the core.

[Bill_AirJunky]

Yea, that will be great for an extra level of safety. But I haven't had any problem not doing it yet. And many times we are draining things on the ramp, as the sun & temps are dropping fast.

One thing you might want to remember is that the core can't handle a ton of pressure. So low PSI, and more volume is better.

[shawndoggy]

You use any compressed air to blow it all out? I know my install is going to force me to run a bit of hose along the gunnel that will be above the core.

That's the way mine is too... although I think the core is above the highest run of hose (mine is run low behind the seats, but there's a hump that I go over). I won't be able to gravity drain it all out of the circuit, but I think out of the core. water will come to rest in the "valley" of the run between the core and the high point of the hose run. I'm hoping it's not too hard to blow that out. Worst case should be frozen hose, not frozen core.

[shawndoggy]

Yea, that will be great for an extra level of safety. But I haven't had any problem not doing it yet. And many times we are draining things on the ramp, as the sun & temps are dropping fast.

One thing you might want to remember is that the core can't handle a ton of pressure. So low PSI, and more volume is better.

I've got an overton's tube pump hard wired in my boat.... should do the trick.

Edited May 13, 2011 by shawndoggy

[martinarcher]

I've got an overton's tube pump hard wired in my boat.... should do the trick.

Just might work.