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Trailer on sloped driveway


Asmodeus2112

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So, I knew this was a concern, and things seem to be ok, but I find myself worrying. I'm going to have my boat on our driveway for a while, and the driveway has a reasonable grade to it. I bought some heavy duty chocks from Grainger, and ring for the tongue jack, and it seems very stable. I just wish I had a back up in case one of these fails. To compound my worries it's going to storm tonight and tomorrow...

Does anyone have any suggestions to on any further measures to secure the boat? Is what I'm doing relative safe, or completely stupid?

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If you have a tandem axle trailer you can buy a set of these.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/deluxe-chock-lock-twin-pack/31695

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/x-chock-tire-locking-chock/43891

They are made for travel trailers.

They are a real necessity if you have to put blocks under one side of your travel trailer.

You put these on the raised side for sure because you can not just use the blocks on top of your raised side.

There are several manufacturers. Look under trailer chocks.

I use them on each side and block the wheels on the uphill side that the tires are on the ground.

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Can you tether it to something?

Like park your tow rig in front of it?

A tree?

Nope. The drive slopes down twords the house and there's nothing but cement up there. I've been leaving the truck in front of it with the safety chains, but the forecast calls for possible hail, so we pulled the truck in the garage. I feel like I doubled down on a 7. If I left the truck out, slight chance of hail damage. Truck in, slight chance of boat, plus house catastrophe.

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If you have a tandem axle trailer you can buy a set of these.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/deluxe-chock-lock-twin-pack/31695

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/x-chock-tire-locking-chock/43891

They are made for travel trailers.

They are a real necessity if you have to put blocks under one side of your travel trailer.

You put these on the raised side for sure because you can not just use the blocks on top of your raised side.

There are several manufacturers. Look under trailer chocks.

I use them on each side and block the wheels on the uphill side that the tires are on the ground.

Ah, single axle. That would have been so cool.

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In this pinch I would...

Chock all 4 wheels as best you can with the biggest chocks you have.

Then, compress the brake actuator with a bar clamp.

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You can buy anchors that you can bolt into your concrete They lay flat and have a D-ring on the that you could attach a chain to it form the trailer. I've seen people use them to lock up motorcycles and other stuff. We leave our boat at the top of our driveway with a slight grade and have never had a problem. We just block all 4 wheel.

Floor anchors

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This is the type of bar clamp I'm talking about.

You would need to compress the brake actuator by clamping in between the vertical red lines. Your trailer may look different but, you need to compress back the area where your tow ball would go inside all the way until the "pin" that slides is as far back as it can be.

aert-2.jpg

Edited by Pistol Pete
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Our drive has a grade to it as well, and we just use chocks on all 4 wheels. It seems very stable to me. Our biggest issue with the sloped drive is connecting/disconnecting the trailer. The slope causes the trailer to always exert a light forward pressure towards the truck, making it tricky sometimes to get the hitch to slide on or off the ball.

Edited by hethj7
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You can buy anchors that you can bolt into your concrete They lay flat and have a D-ring on the that you could attach a chain to it form the trailer. I've seen people use them to lock up motorcycles and other stuff. We leave our boat at the top of our driveway with a slight grade and have never had a problem. We just block all 4 wheel.

Floor anchors

Sweet, that might work. Not tonight, but in the next couple of days.

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This is the type of bar clamp I'm talking about.

You would need to compress the brake actuator by clamping in between the vertical red lines. Your trailer may look different but, you need to compress back the area where your tow ball would go inside all the way until the "pin" that slides is as far back as it can be.

aert-2.jpg

Thanks man, good ideas but I'm striking out with them. My brakes don't work on my trailer yet. :( Was going to do some bleeding tonight till the rain started... :cry:

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why not run a chain or cable through the spoke of a wheel and to the trailer frame then the wheel cant roll far

Ken

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martinarcher

why not run a chain or cable through the spoke of a wheel and to the trailer frame then the wheel cant roll far

Ken

Man that's a good easy thing to do. Good idea! Rockon.gif

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khelfrich and MartinArcher beat me to it.

I used the chain through the spokes method of keeping somebody from stealing my utility trailer.

When you park the trailer allow the tire to roll down hard against the wheel blocks. That way you have to have power to back the trailer off the blocks. Keeps the vandals from rolling your boat down the street.

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Man that's a good easy thing to do. Good idea! Rockon.gif

Yep, that was my first idea. I have a lot of cables to secure things in my truck bed. Cable just seems flimsy and like some force might overcome it. But then again, a ski rope will stop a prop...

It will do for tonight though!

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Google Tung-N-Chock for under the jack and any type of wheel chocks with chain/rope connection.

Get two sets and block each side. 60 seconds at most.

I use these religiously after a bad experience, inclined situation or not.

$100 in parts in nothing compared to body work on truck.

Long story...

I really like the anchor ring idea for long term solution.

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Depending on the trailer you have, if you have an Extreme trailer that uses UFP part and I'm sure other Malibu Boat Trailer's do to. You can use a screw driver or a small Pry bar to actuate the master cylinder in the tongue and if you actuate it all the way it will lock with your brakes applied. Then there is a little tap you push to release it. I have done this with no problems. If you need a picture, go to the UFP web site and down load the maintenance manual. The breeding the break lines has a good picture.

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martinarcher

Depending on the trailer you have, if you have an Extreme trailer that uses UFP part and I'm sure other Malibu Boat Trailer's do to. You can use a screw driver or a small Pry bar to actuate the master cylinder in the tongue and if you actuate it all the way it will lock with your brakes applied. Then there is a little tap you push to release it. I have done this with no problems. If you need a picture, go to the UFP web site and down load the maintenance manual. The breeding the break lines has a good picture.

How much to you get out of a litter of brake lines. Whistling.gif

I need to go to bed. LOL.gif

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martinarcher

What?

Bad joke....sorry. You spelled bleed, breed so I figured you would get a "litter" of brake lines...like a litter of puppies. :Doh:

Sorry...I'm headed to bed. LOL.gif

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............ breeding the break lines .............

Go to bed, Matt. :rofl:

You could also use a motorcycle strap to cinch the brake actuator back.... if your brakes worked.

Or use a bike lock to chain the rim to the frame on each side.

Edited by Bill_AirJunky
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