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Heater Switch replacement


BuFootin

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Last fall during some cold weather skiing I twice left the heater fan switch on after I put the boat away.....yep, dead battery the next time I go to launch it. I have the factory mounted Heater Craft heater fan switch mounted to the pannel below the radio head unit.

So I thought it would be "great" to relocate the heater switch to the switch panel on the dash with the other switches (lights, horn, blower, shower, Acc, etc.). That way it would be easily visible when the heater switch was left on. So I purchased what I thought I needed (DPDT 3 position illuminated on-off-on contura rocker switch) with the right switch cover plate. Wired it all up so the fan would blow on High and Low.

Everything working great on the trailer right.....wrong...go to launch this weekend. Yep, dead battery. Get the battery checked at the auto parts store....all ok. My first suspicion is I don't have the heater switch wired in right, since no prior dead battery issues so far this year.

Does anyone have their heater switch on the dash switch panel that can explain or PM me the wiring connections? PLEASE

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my cludgy option 2 is to put a big on-off switch on the house bank. Pull boat from water, turn off switch. No more worries about leaving the blower or heater on.

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my cludgy option 2 is to put a big on-off switch on the house bank. Pull boat from water, turn off switch. No more worries about leaving the blower or heater on.

This option would drive me nuts :crazy: I know there has to be someone on the crew that can help solve my problem

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Got this description off off the Bakes web site where I ordered my heater switch. The text explains it all, but I'll try to attach a picture too. In the picture I have the ground wire (top right) and the power in (middle terminal). The "high" would go on the bottom just below the power and on the same side. The "low" would go just above and on the same side as the power in. By the way, the power in came directly from the 15 amp "heater" fuse on the panel. The ground goes to the ground bar. These were both pre-wired at the previous accessory switch that was there.

The top right terminal is the ground for the lamps. The middle terminals are power "in" The other two pairs of terminals are power "out". The switch is "off" when the actuator is in the middle position. At times these switches are wired differently. The important thing to remember is how the switch operates. When the bottom of the actuator is depressed, the middle two terminals make contact with the top two terminals. When the top of the actuator is depressed, the middle two terminals make contact with the bottom two terminals. As with all double pole switches, the two sides are independent of each other. So the terminals on the left side of the switch never make contact with the terminals on the right side of the switch unless you install an external jumper wire.

post-1563-009947600 1304993830_thumb.jpg

Edited by CedarLakeSkier
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Got this description off off the Bakes web site where I ordered my heater switch. The text explains it all, but I'll try to attach a picture too. In the picture I have the ground wire (top right) and the power in (middle terminal). The "high" would go on the bottom just below the power and on the same side. The "low" would go just above and on the same side as the power in. By the way, the power in came directly from the 15 amp "heater" fuse on the panel. The ground goes to the ground bar. These were both pre-wired at the previous accessory switch that was there.

The top right terminal is the ground for the lamps. The middle terminals are power "in" The other two pairs of terminals are power "out". The switch is "off" when the actuator is in the middle position. At times these switches are wired differently. The important thing to remember is how the switch operates. When the bottom of the actuator is depressed, the middle two terminals make contact with the top two terminals. When the top of the actuator is depressed, the middle two terminals make contact with the bottom two terminals. As with all double pole switches, the two sides are independent of each other. So the terminals on the left side of the switch never make contact with the terminals on the right side of the switch unless you install an external jumper wire.

post-1563-009947600 1304993830_thumb.jpg

Thanks Cedar!

Wired as you describe, do both lights illuminate (high & low) when the switch is activated in either position? My assumption was that only the High light illuminates when the switch is toggled to high, and same for the low switch setting, only the low light illuminates.

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Thanks Cedar!

Wired as you describe, do both lights illuminate (high & low) when the switch is activated in either position? My assumption was that only the High light illuminates when the switch is toggled to high, and same for the low switch setting, only the low light illuminates.

Both Lights light up in either "on" position. I thought that was wierd too, but it worked. I should have also mentioned. The ground from the heater goes straight to the ground bar (nowhere near the switch). The ground that's on the switch is for the lights.

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Both Lights light up in either "on" position. I thought that was wierd too, but it worked. I should have also mentioned. The ground from the heater goes straight to the ground bar (nowhere near the switch). The ground that's on the switch is for the lights.

Ok, that solves that mystery. It is weird that both lights come on in either position. I think you may have pointed out my mistake then. I'm gonna swing by the boat on the way home from work tomorrow and swap some wires around. Hopefully that solves the problem.

Thanks Again.

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