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Need Help Changing V-Drive Oil


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Over this past week I've been getting ready to force winter out and summer in, however the weather just isn't co-operating neither are my maintenance chores on a boat I picked up in the middle of the season last year....37 degrees tonight and supposed to get down to 30....man I hate winter.

2002 VLX

Anyway here goes....

--I've changed one axle on the boat trailer and got it put on and once that one was on

--noticed the other was just as bad so ordered another axle from Tony at Excel

--along with a brake line that broke and both brake rotors (I don't know what the previous owner did, but both torsion axles were broken badly)...I'm still counting my blessings that nothing happened bringing the boat to Rapid City from Tommy's in Denver. You must get the rotors from Excel as well as no automotive place has the foggiest idea where to find rotors that look like those or how to turn them. They were happy to offer to turn them as long as I paid in advance and didn't guarantee they would be able to do anything.

--replaced the oil and filter

--replaced the impeller (again it's amazing my engine didn't overheat because a few of the fins were bent over permanently...there is no way suction could happen with it that way,

--changed transmission fluid,

--changed fuel filter,

--added inline "fake-a-lake" for lack of better way to describe it...will make it easier to run the boat out of the water that way, just hook up a garden hose to the back and start it....I like easy

--added a pump to pump the water that gets stuck in the middle ski-locker from rain, water coming over the bow, etc (a lot of water doesn't ever make it back to the bilge) and pump it back there....now can suck every last little drop of water back to the bilge where it is supposed to be....(my wife was always complaining of smelling musty odors when sitting in the passenger seat....need to keep her happy :) )

--removed the windshields to replace the speakers in the dash....what a pain that was, Windshields come of easy if they've been off before otherwise, the bolts (3 on each side going through the dash) are kind of wedged into the fiberglass (holes weren't drilled large enough evidently....we fixed that with the new bolts we put in by drilling those holes larger) and those bolts were a pain to get out broke a couple and bent the rest, the screws along the windshield are very easy to "round" out as they are phillips head screws...we changed that as well with new hex head stainless screws the same size.

--replaced the fuel sender with a teleflex....it's easy if you know you have to completely turn the teleflex unit around so that the holes will line up and the sender is pointing the right direction....we were able to make this 20 minute job last for about an hour and a half trying to figure that out...we aren't too bright.

--We also got to make the speaker holes bigger because... of course the wetsound speakers couldn't be the same size as the infinity speakers that were originally there....which led to be able to breathe in fiberglass dust (by the way...this is not healthy and make sure you are wearing good protective masks when doing this)....which led to cutting the upholstery on the dash...I think there may have been a few choice words about this time

--and getting to remove that part of the dash to take to the upholsterer to have fixed....this isn't an easy job either but it's much easier knowing that the panel that is by the walk-thru just uses plastic screws that pop out....we must have looked for 20 minutes underneath the dash and feeling the carpet for exposed and unexposed bolts (originally thought they carpeted over the bolts) finally I had enough and took a screwdriver to that panel and it came out easy if I pried it out slowly....don't break those things though....it doesn't look like an easy task to get new ones back in.

Ok, so if any of you are tackling any of those jobs and have questions....just ask and I will tell you what to look out for and what not to do.

....Now stop laughing so hard from the circus act you must have pictured in your mind and try and offer some words of wisdom here

So, to make sure we don't get to do extra work with the v-drive oil (weather is supposed to hit 60 this week and we're going skiing (90 degree rule....Water temp + air temp >= 90, we're on the lake Hydrofoiling our water temp should be a balmy 42 so we have plenty of room if it hits 60....heck we may break out the wetsuits for that kind of weather) I would appreciate not dragging this little chore out any longer than I have to.

Can someone tell me exactly how this needs to be done? Which bolt/cover needs to be removed to drain the V-Drive and which cover/bolt is removed to ad the 30W oil....also, how do you know when it's full?

I hope the rest of you have had better luck than I have had this week in getting your boats ready....but you know what....even as bad as this last week was in terms of pain and suffering...it's still great knowing that once again we get to get on the water and will have an opportunity to do that.

You guys are the best and if you are ever in the Rapid City area checking out Sturgis Motorcycle Rally or Mount Rushmore....let me know, we'd be glad to hook you up on the lake if at all possible.

Thanks

Greg Schumacher

Rapid City

"Most people need 64 ounces of water a day to live....I need 640 acres."

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Greg,

We've all been there in some fashion when doing maintenence and repairs. This is my first spring with my new to me boat, so most of it has come this year as well. Yesterday I changed the plugs, dist cap and rotor. Then grabbed my brand new $12 Napa hand pump and went to change the tranny and V-drive fluids. Tranny was no problem, except for dripping ATF fluid everywhere. The V-drive was a different story. Pulled the cap and the hole was much too small for the tube I have. (Insert joke here.) Since I had a about 30 minutes left before the launch closed and I wanted to get the boat onto the lift yesterday, I stopped and figured I'd come back to it today.

I just came on here to do a search and saw your post. I've somewhat struck out. I've seen where people have been able to use the more expensive $100 oil extractors that have a very small tube to suck out the oil. I then did find this old .pdf copy of a Walter's manual. I have not poked around to see how much room is under the v-drive unit to see if it would be possible to get a catch basin of some sort under there to drain it normally. It also talks about cleaning a screen when you do it.

Edit: Just found this link on the Tige site. Much better .pdf of the manual. The oil fill has an immediate 90 degree bend. I'd still not get my extractor tube through there either.

http://www.tigeowners.com/downloads/walter_vdrive.pdf

So I'm also looking for the best way to drain or extract the oil without having to buy another oil extractor.

Edited by Badger
  • Like 1
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I now also see that F-man has responded to a very similar post also started yesterday where he actually drained it.

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I used a turkey baster with a tube attached. Fished it into the fill plug and sucked the oil out a little at a time.

One good practice (read on here somewhere) is to put the removed fluid in something you can measure the level with, and then put that same level back in.

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I fought the same issue on my vdrive this year (new to me boat as well). I went to Ace Hardware and bought an adapter to swage down the tube on my hand pump to 1/4" size, which allowed it to fit down the dipstick hole. Warning - there were two different wall thickness of the 1/4" tubing and I needed the thinner wall to actually fit the tube in the dipstick hole. There has to be a better way for next year, because it took forever to suck the oil out of that little tube.

Check out my link below. It was my post describing all my first time maintenance issues. Check the advice WDR gives in the 3rd post. That may help with the vdrive fluid change. Good luck!

My link

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I just went back and read the PDF Badger posted. That is the way to go, and is probably what WDR was describing in my thread.

Badger - Thanks for the link!

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Awesome....maybe you could just use a ziploc bag to catch the oil....much easier than trying to get something to fit under there and trying to get it out.

Thanks for the pdf, that makes a ton more sense now and that will be one more thing I do to winterize by draining water out of it from water drain plugs....never even new they existed.

Thanks

Greg

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Awesome....maybe you could just use a ziploc bag to catch the oil....much easier than trying to get something to fit under there and trying to get it out.

Thanks for the pdf, that makes a ton more sense now and that will be one more thing I do to winterize by draining water out of it from water drain plugs....never even new they existed.

Thanks

Greg

Another idea I've seen here is forming a catch pan out of aluminum foil, although it could be tough to remove it once it's full from that small space.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Can you describe...better yet take any pictures of your inline "fake a lake"

Thanks a lot

Todd

Over this past week I've been getting ready to force winter out and summer in, however the weather just isn't co-operating neither are my maintenance chores on a boat I picked up in the middle of the season last year....37 degrees tonight and supposed to get down to 30....man I hate winter.

2002 VLX

Anyway here goes....

--I've changed one axle on the boat trailer and got it put on and once that one was on

--noticed the other was just as bad so ordered another axle from Tony at Excel

--along with a brake line that broke and both brake rotors (I don't know what the previous owner did, but both torsion axles were broken badly)...I'm still counting my blessings that nothing happened bringing the boat to Rapid City from Tommy's in Denver. You must get the rotors from Excel as well as no automotive place has the foggiest idea where to find rotors that look like those or how to turn them. They were happy to offer to turn them as long as I paid in advance and didn't guarantee they would be able to do anything.

--replaced the oil and filter

--replaced the impeller (again it's amazing my engine didn't overheat because a few of the fins were bent over permanently...there is no way suction could happen with it that way,

--changed transmission fluid,

--changed fuel filter,

--added inline "fake-a-lake" for lack of better way to describe it...will make it easier to run the boat out of the water that way, just hook up a garden hose to the back and start it....I like easy

--added a pump to pump the water that gets stuck in the middle ski-locker from rain, water coming over the bow, etc (a lot of water doesn't ever make it back to the bilge) and pump it back there....now can suck every last little drop of water back to the bilge where it is supposed to be....(my wife was always complaining of smelling musty odors when sitting in the passenger seat....need to keep her happy :) )

--removed the windshields to replace the speakers in the dash....what a pain that was, Windshields come of easy if they've been off before otherwise, the bolts (3 on each side going through the dash) are kind of wedged into the fiberglass (holes weren't drilled large enough evidently....we fixed that with the new bolts we put in by drilling those holes larger) and those bolts were a pain to get out broke a couple and bent the rest, the screws along the windshield are very easy to "round" out as they are phillips head screws...we changed that as well with new hex head stainless screws the same size.

--replaced the fuel sender with a teleflex....it's easy if you know you have to completely turn the teleflex unit around so that the holes will line up and the sender is pointing the right direction....we were able to make this 20 minute job last for about an hour and a half trying to figure that out...we aren't too bright.

--We also got to make the speaker holes bigger because... of course the wetsound speakers couldn't be the same size as the infinity speakers that were originally there....which led to be able to breathe in fiberglass dust (by the way...this is not healthy and make sure you are wearing good protective masks when doing this)....which led to cutting the upholstery on the dash...I think there may have been a few choice words about this time

--and getting to remove that part of the dash to take to the upholsterer to have fixed....this isn't an easy job either but it's much easier knowing that the panel that is by the walk-thru just uses plastic screws that pop out....we must have looked for 20 minutes underneath the dash and feeling the carpet for exposed and unexposed bolts (originally thought they carpeted over the bolts) finally I had enough and took a screwdriver to that panel and it came out easy if I pried it out slowly....don't break those things though....it doesn't look like an easy task to get new ones back in.

Ok, so if any of you are tackling any of those jobs and have questions....just ask and I will tell you what to look out for and what not to do.

....Now stop laughing so hard from the circus act you must have pictured in your mind and try and offer some words of wisdom here

So, to make sure we don't get to do extra work with the v-drive oil (weather is supposed to hit 60 this week and we're going skiing (90 degree rule....Water temp + air temp >= 90, we're on the lake Hydrofoiling our water temp should be a balmy 42 so we have plenty of room if it hits 60....heck we may break out the wetsuits for that kind of weather) I would appreciate not dragging this little chore out any longer than I have to.

Can someone tell me exactly how this needs to be done? Which bolt/cover needs to be removed to drain the V-Drive and which cover/bolt is removed to ad the 30W oil....also, how do you know when it's full?

I hope the rest of you have had better luck than I have had this week in getting your boats ready....but you know what....even as bad as this last week was in terms of pain and suffering...it's still great knowing that once again we get to get on the water and will have an opportunity to do that.

You guys are the best and if you are ever in the Rapid City area checking out Sturgis Motorcycle Rally or Mount Rushmore....let me know, we'd be glad to hook you up on the lake if at all possible.

Thanks

Greg Schumacher

Rapid City

"Most people need 64 ounces of water a day to live....I need 640 acres."

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There are a few photos here of one setup. My link

You can also do a search for flush kits on this site and various other installs people have done will show up. Some use a T fitting so that the hose hookup is always avialable and you don't have to disconnect other hoses to start flushing.

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  • 1 year later...

jw, I assume you have a Walters VD if that is in fact the case you will pay hell trying to get the 30W oil out of the VD with the turkey baster. IME, on a "Walter VD" if you pull the vent cap off of the brass elbow that connects the lower sump pick-up line to the pump as well, you can push the hard line extractor hose all the way into the lowest portion of the VD and suck out nearly all of the oil. You may have a few ounces left, but not much more. You most likely won't see any big crud if you go that route as the hose will be under the sump screen. Refill from there as well, it is alot less messy. I've tried and cussed all of the other ways, pans, bags etc.. and finally ended up with a $15.00 Harbor Freight vacuum can the works like a champ on ATF. Its a little slower on motor oil, but I gravity drain my oil on my LSV so it isn't an issue for me.

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jw, I assume you have a Walters VD if that is in fact the case you will pay hell trying to get the 30W oil out of the VD with the turkey baster. IME, on a "Walter VD" if you pull the vent cap off of the brass elbow that connects the lower sump pick-up line to the pump as well, you can push the hard line extractor hose all the way into the lowest portion of the VD and suck out nearly all of the oil. You may have a few ounces left, but not much more. You most likely won't see any big crud if you go that route as the hose will be under the sump screen. Refill from there as well, it is alot less messy.

Its a little slower on motor oil, but I gravity drain my oil on my LSV so it isn't an issue for me.

wdr, I do have the Walther's, thanks for the tip! As for oil I was planning on gravity drain then pump to make sure most oil is out.

When replacing filter, how much oil do you pour into the new filter before installing it if any? I was thinking .5 quart or something close to that so it has oil the first time I start it.

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On the motor I fill the filter all of the way up (almost 2/3 QT on a NAPA 1069) and screw it on, but mine is on the remote adapter that I can get to. I normally use a cut open milk jug under the filter to replace it. That way if I do something stupid the oil spills in there. I have used the vacuum on my drain line, but honestly it was a waste of time for what I got. Bill

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  • 3 years later...

I have a 2005 v-ride.  I've changed the Walter V-Drive oil several times but I've never pulled and cleaned the oil screen.  Seems like this would be impossible given the proximity of the screen location to the fuel tank.  I haven't been able to fit a wrench down to the oil line that attaches to the elbow on the front of the screen plug to remove it let alone loosen the filter plug and slide out the screen which I'm assuming is longer than the 1.5" of clearance between the plug and the gas tank.  Has anyone been able to solve this and actually pull and clean the Walter V-Drive screen?

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The only way to clean the screen is to drop the sump pan itself, 9/16" x 4 nuts and washes. It is somewhat of an easy job to do if you have the room between the sump and the hull and you have little girl hands. ? IME/O if when you pull the oil and it looks clean and you are not seeing any extra crud i.e. sticks, leaves or dead bodies I wouldn't mess with it. The sump screen is a fine mesh and will protect against all of that stuff. I would be more concerned about water or metal in the oil. If none is there don't mess with it.JM2C Bill

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+1 for extract fluid and refill, don't bother with the screen.  The Vdrive is bulletproof, likely will never have an issue with that.  I would be more concerned about replacing your transmission fluid annually, cheap insurance.

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Thanks guys.  I drained the oil from the bottom plug.  I also pulled both magnetic plugs and there was no metal.  Just refilled with SAE 30 heavy duty oil.  I think I'll take your advice and leave the screen alone.

 

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Wish i would have had the PDF in this old post earlier for the fill, although I found a refill that causes zero spills.  I bought a $0.99 squeeze bottle from Wal-Mart.  It is like the one you'd use for mustard or ketchup but its clear.  Hold about a third of a quart of 30 wt oil.  The tip is tiny, so it fits easily down into the v-drive dipstick hole and as long as you don't try and squeeze/rush the oil into the dipstick, it works without spilling a single drop.  The cap fits tight too so i left some 30 wt oil in there...if i discover I need to top off the fluids during inspection this is an easy way to do it.

 

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