Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

aluminum epoxy


scott_fx

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

i have to adhere a piece of aluminum angle to the honeycomb aluminum panel on my boat. I'll be using fasteners for a mechanical bond but i want to add an epoxy to be the primary bond due to the greater surface area that is available.

i believe i have to grind and chemically etch the surface to remove oxidation, but im unsure of what epoxy to get. any ideas?

i wonder if this would be good:

http://thegluedepot.com/3mepoxydp-420metalbondingepoxy-50ml.aspx

Edited by scott_fx
Link to comment
jkendallmsce

hey guys,

i have to adhere a piece of aluminum angle to the honeycomb aluminum panel on my boat. I'll be using fasteners for a mechanical bond but i want to add an epoxy to be the primary bond due to the greater surface area that is available.

i believe i have to grind and chemically etch the surface to remove oxidation, but im unsure of what epoxy to get. any ideas?

i wonder if this would be good:

http://thegluedepot.com/3mepoxydp-420metalbondingepoxy-50ml.aspx

JB WELD

Link to comment

hey guys,

i have to adhere a piece of aluminum angle to the honeycomb aluminum panel on my boat. I'll be using fasteners for a mechanical bond but i want to add an epoxy to be the primary bond due to the greater surface area that is available.

i believe i have to grind and chemically etch the surface to remove oxidation, but im unsure of what epoxy to get. any ideas?

i wonder if this would be good:

http://thegluedepot.com/3mepoxydp-420metalbondingepoxy-50ml.aspx

Is this just for structural support?

Link to comment

it's going to go on my sunpad. i need to attach a hinge to the honeycomb panel. I'm working with a machine shop and we're going to glue and fasten a 3" x 2" aluminum 'L' bracket on the top honeycomb panel. the 3" side will be against the top sheet of the honeycomb panel and be where the epoxy will applied. the 2" side will be where we screw the hinge after it's been upholstered.

Edited by scott_fx
Link to comment

JB WELD

i need a liquid or gell type epoxy

lord/fusor will have a glue that i will work probably the panel bonding adhesive

thanks for the tip, i looked into them but it seems like you need to buy a $70 applicator gun. I'll keep them as a back up though

more research has me leaning towards the vhb foam tape:

Edited by scott_fx
Link to comment

As an installer/fabricator for the last 20 years or so, I've learned a few lessons.

Lesson 1: Mechanical > Chemical.

Lesson 2: Mechanical + Chemical is even better. You're on the right track.

That bowling ball video is funny. The greatest pressures are actually pulling the two panels straight sideways away from each other, so 5 rivets is of course not going to be as strong as a continuous bond of VHB tape.

My recommendation on the VHB is get the thinnest possible. The adhesives are all the same, I believe, but the material between them is not. The thickest tape (usually white) is foam and is nearly always the point of failure. Not the adhesive, but the foam itself tearing and separating. The thinner tape (usually black or dark grey) is thinner and won't separate as easily. I have also seen VHB that has no foam in the middle at all (usually clear) and that stuff is incredibly strong, but if there is any variance on the surface of your two materials, it cannot make up any slight gaps like the foam tapes can.

Good luck.

Link to comment

As an installer/fabricator for the last 20 years or so, I've learned a few lessons.

Lesson 1: Mechanical > Chemical.

Lesson 2: Mechanical + Chemical is even better. You're on the right track.

That bowling ball video is funny. The greatest pressures are actually pulling the two panels straight sideways away from each other, so 5 rivets is of course not going to be as strong as a continuous bond of VHB tape.

My recommendation on the VHB is get the thinnest possible. The adhesives are all the same, I believe, but the material between them is not. The thickest tape (usually white) is foam and is nearly always the point of failure. Not the adhesive, but the foam itself tearing and separating. The thinner tape (usually black or dark grey) is thinner and won't separate as easily. I have also seen VHB that has no foam in the middle at all (usually clear) and that stuff is incredibly strong, but if there is any variance on the surface of your two materials, it cannot make up any slight gaps like the foam tapes can.

Good luck.

thanks, thats the kind of input that i value. real world experience.

more research has me leaning towards the vhb foam tape

namely this one (black.... thinner foam):

http://www.findtape.com/product531/3M-Scotch-5952-VHB-Heavy-Duty-Mounting-Tape.aspx

here are my calculations..

it has a 22 lb/in 90 degree peel adhesion and with a 3" x 36" contact area. (108 sq/in) = 2376; 2376 (pound /in) = 28,512 (pound /ft) of holding strength

there will also be about 11 screws

Edited by scott_fx
Link to comment

Leave the tape aside as you fabricate your pieces. Mock it up by mounting it with the screws, then pull it apart and clean up all your shavings, burrs, and grind or file down any high edges around the screw holes so the pieces are as flat/smooth as possible. Then clean your parts with alcohol and apply the tape to the L-bracket first. You may also cut out the tape in small circles or squares around your screw holes, so when you install your screws the tape doesn't wrap around them and create a bump or a void. If your tape is wider than your L bracket, you can also run a razor blade along the side to cut the tape to the exact size it needs to be, with no excess hanging over the sides. When you put the two pieces together, start at one end and peel 3-4" of tape at a time, loosely installing your screws to keep alignment and pressing down on the tape as you go to remove air bubbles, like a sticker. Then hand tighten the screws last.

Short of welding or using more screws, this will be one of the strongest bonds possible.

Post up pics when you are done. I'm curious to see what this project is, actually.

Link to comment

thanks for the advice. the project is making me 3 piece sundeck on my '98 into a more functional 3 piece design. the honeycomb panel is only about 3/4 of an inch thick and the piano hinge needs to pivot 2 3/4 inches above the bottom of the panel. since it's has the honecomb, there is no vertical edge to screw the hinge to. that's where the l bracket comes in.

Link to comment
martinarcher

lord/fusor will have a glue that i will work probably the panel bonding adhesive

That's what I would recommend. You certainly wouldn't need any fasteners. Rockon.gif

I have one of the guns if you want to borrow it I can send it your way. I have used their adhesives in the past. I still have mu turbo Escort.....the bumper is held on with Lord Adhesives.

Link to comment

That's what I would recommend. You certainly wouldn't need any fasteners. Rockon.gif

I have one of the guns if you want to borrow it I can send it your way. I have used their adhesives in the past. I still have mu turbo Escort.....the bumper is held on with Lord Adhesives.

Thank you for the offer. i actually pulled the trigger on the tape yesterday though. I think it'll be fine, plus it has more then enough holding strength for this application

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...