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Finally got the boat on the water. Ballast pump question.


AustnJPR

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Got the boat out Saturday to check her out and run through all the functions. Everything seems very good and the Hammerhead runs like a dream thus far. :yahoo:

Now on to the ballast tanks. Non of the toggle switches are labeled as to which tank they control. I flipped each on and finally figured it out. The manual was no help! :rtfm: Anyway all the tanks fill and report filled on the dash except for the bow tank. Looking at all the pumps I notice they all have a bypass valve (yellow handle) on them. One of my pumps in the center of the boat under the small access hatch, is missing its handle. Is this by design? Also since non of the handles are labeled, which way is open/close? And is this in fact a bypass? If not, what the hell are the handles for? All the pumps seem to come on and I pulled them apart to verify that the small blue impellers were working and not gunked up. They were all fine. So now I'm trying to figure out why no bow ballast?

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Got the boat out Saturday to check her out and run through all the functions. Everything seems very good and the Hammerhead runs like a dream thus far. :yahoo:

Now on to the ballast tanks. Non of the toggle switches are labeled as to which tank they control. I flipped each on and finally figured it out. The manual was no help! :rtfm: Anyway all the tanks fill and report filled on the dash except for the bow tank. Looking at all the pumps I notice they all have a bypass valve (yellow handle) on them. One of my pumps in the center of the boat under the small access hatch, is missing its handle. Is this by design? Also since non of the handles are labeled, which way is open/close? And is this in fact a bypass? If not, what the hell are the handles for? All the pumps seem to come on and I pulled them apart to verify that the small blue impellers were working and not gunked up. They were all fine. So now I'm trying to figure out why no bow ballast?

The handle should be on the valve, shouldn't be missing. The handle straight up and down is valve open, if you turn it to the side it closes the valve. The valves are there so you can shut them and remove a pump if you need to and not sink your boat. They are also a coast guard requirement. Sounds like the valve could be shut on your bow tank.

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Not to hijack, but this brings up something I noticed after having my ballast system installed this winter. I noticed no shut off between intake thru hull fitting and my jabsco pump. This initially alarmed me, but according to their website, there shouldn't be a shut off valve (http://fatsac.com/PDFs/ABSDiagram.pdf). However, I've seen other sites have diagrams with shut off valves.

Should I install a shut off valve?

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Here is an exerpt from 46 CFR 171.119(b)

(b) Except for engine exhausts, each

inlet or discharge pipe that penetrates

the hull below a line drawn parallel to

and at least 6 inches (15.2 centimeters)

above the deepest subdivision load line

must have means to prevent water

from entering the vessel if the pipe

fractures or otherwise fails.

© A positive action valve or c***

that is located as close as possible to

the hull is an acceptable means for

complying with paragraph (b) of this

section.

(d) If an inlet or discharge pipe is inaccessible,

the means for complying

with paragraph (b) of this section must

be a shut-off valve that is—

(1) Operable from the weather deck or

other accessible location above the

bulkhead deck; and

(2) Labeled at the operating point for

identity and direction of closing.

(e) Any connecting device or valve in

a hull penetration must not be cast

iron.

I don't know specifically how this applies to ski/wake boats but it seems like it's required if Malibu is doing it at the factory. I would put one in there if it was me.

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On my 05 I think I was missing 3 out of the 4 handles.. The nut comes loose and the handle falls off... It's an easy fix... You can tell if the tank is full when it starts coming out the side thru hull... If it fills obviously the valve is open and possibly the sensors in the tank are not working... If it doesn't fill it could be that the valve is closed or that the pump isn't working... The aerator pumps are cheap and don't last very long but they are nice and easy to replace (at least the Bow pump is)

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Not to hijack, but this brings up something I noticed after having my ballast system installed this winter. I noticed no shut off between intake thru hull fitting and my jabsco pump. This initially alarmed me, but according to their website, there shouldn't be a shut off valve. However, I've seen other sites have diagrams with shut off valves.

Should I install a shut off valve?

The diagram you've linked to (I've deleted the link so as not to propagate inaccurate information) is a diagram that Fly High published, that has been circulated around to their dealers and is grossly incorrect. Although Fly High currently makes the best ballast bags on the market, that doesn't mean they have all of the answers when it comes to implementing their products.

Specifically, here are the major issues with the document they are promoting:

- Any thru-hull fitting used below the waterline MUST be a threaded fitting, and not a hose barb fitting as shown in the diagram.

- Any thru-hull connection below the waterline must have a ball valve in place (as per the guideline quoted by 06vlx).

The unfortunate thing is that there are a lot of dealers and installers that don't know the difference, so no matter how much noise we make about this, they follow the incorrect document Fly High has circulated, and boat owners like yourself end up with a system that is a huge liability.

If you have a friend that is installing a ballast system that happens upon that document PLEASE explain the importance of an shut-off valve on every thru-hull intake below the waterline.

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In the unlikely event you had a failure on the hose on that fitting I would be concerned that your insurance company could deny your claim if they are required under Coast Guard regulations.

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The diagram you've linked to (I've deleted the link so as not to propagate inaccurate information) is a diagram that Fly High published, that has been circulated around to their dealers and is grossly incorrect. Although Fly High currently makes the best ballast bags on the market, that doesn't mean they have all of the answers when it comes to implementing their products.

Specifically, here are the major issues with the document they are promoting:

- Any thru-hull fitting used below the waterline MUST be a threaded fitting, and not a hose barb fitting as shown in the diagram.

- Any thru-hull connection below the waterline must have a ball valve in place (as per the guideline quoted by 06vlx).

The unfortunate thing is that there are a lot of dealers and installers that don't know the difference, so no matter how much noise we make about this, they follow the incorrect document Fly High has circulated, and boat owners like yourself end up with a system that is a huge liability.

If you have a friend that is installing a ballast system that happens upon that document PLEASE explain the importance of an shut-off valve on every thru-hull intake below the waterline.

ugh, I wish I lived closer to the dealer to take it back and a$$ kick them for this, however it's $100+ in gas just to drive there.

I am pretty sure the thru hull fittings on the bottom for intake are hose barb type. Glad you guys chimed in and I figured this out now though. Replacing a fitting isn't that big of a deal. Where can I get a 1" threaded thruhull and ball valve that screws into it? Should I use marine grade silicone or 5220 to seal below water line thru hulls?

nevermind, found it all on wakemakers. Wish my dealer was better educated.

Edited by augie09
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