Exhaust Project - with flyby vids

[martinarcher]

Thanks guys. Yeah, I'll certainly have to get someone on the shoreline with a camera to do a video of it getting out of the water and on plane.

Performance wise, not sure. It's hard to say, but I'd guess looking at the restrictive mufflers that were on it I'll hopefully get 5-10hp.

I think the exhaust will really help when i change the heads to something that flows much better than these old iron heads.

[martinarcher]

It looks great! I really like the carnage on the floor.

That was after an hour working with a few razor blades trying to get all the old silicone off the transom.

Anyone have any ideas how to get the remaining residue off? I tried a little bit of gasket remover and acetone with no luck.

[Hammertime]

That was after an hour working with a few razor blades trying to get all the old silicone off the transom.

Anyone have any ideas how to get the remaining residue off? I tried a little bit of gasket remover and acetone with no luck.

My wife has some toxic stuff that might work. Maybe "Goo-be-gone" or something like that?

I'll se if I can find the bottle and will let you know.

[REW]

That was after an hour working with a few razor blades trying to get all the old silicone off the transom.

Anyone have any ideas how to get the remaining residue off? I tried a little bit of gasket remover and acetone with no luck.

You can try Goof off but I think your best bet will be to just start rubbing it unitl it comes off. Probably going to take a while.

[jk13]

That was after an hour working with a few razor blades trying to get all the old silicone off the transom.

Anyone have any ideas how to get the remaining residue off? I tried a little bit of gasket remover and acetone with no luck.

3M eraser wheel.

Chuck it into your drill and it'll get rid of that in no time. We use it all the time to remove pinstripes, two sided tape, silicone, etc.

[martinarcher]

3M eraser wheel.

Chuck it into your drill and it'll get rid of that in no time. We use it all the time to remove pinstripes, two sided tape, silicone, etc.

Well that's the only thing I didn't try. I tried Goo Gone, Goof Off, Brake Kleen, and Gasket Remover. Nothing phased the silicone. It is good stuff. I worked at it for a long time with my fingernail and a few more razorblades. I was pretty happy with how clean I got it and siliconed in the new tips. I then headed into the boat and hit the first obstacle that i knew was coming. The tiller arm cleared the old exhaust by 1/8". The new stuff is 1/2" thicker so I knew I was going to have to take 1/2" off the tiller arm and machine a new hole for the control cable. I bought a newer Malibu rudder, housing, and tiller arm from Chris's wrecked Sunsetter so I figured I would install it while I was at it. I got everything on my old rudder off EXCEPT the base plate on the bottom of the boat. I banged, pryed, heated, yelled, bled, etc and it would not budge. I called rugger to see if there might be 5200 holding it on, but he said he hadn't taken it off so whatever Malibu used is good stuff. My Skier's base plate came off easy....not this one! rugger talked some sense into me....since the dang thing has been on the boat for 24 years and works fine I put it all back together with new silicone inside the boat. Heck, the wheel turns with one finger. Another good thing is the rudder shaft on the old rudder is 1.125" and the new one is 1". Also, the bore going though the bottom of the boat needs to be larger for the new port...no biggie, just another thing to change. I'll save the new parts in case I ever ding my rudder off something.

Anyways...here's the pics from the last couple nights....

Tiller arm too long...

Shorty.....

Much better!

New shaft...

Existing shaft...

Existing rudder left, new one right (I think the existing one looks like it has more steering authority with the longer blade)...

New port vs Existing port...the grease zerks are the whole reason I wanted to change the port...

[Woodski]

FYI: As you can see the new style rudder mount actually mounts the tiller higher relative to the pipe and it just cleared for me. I think that is a very good solution, you will basically have just a bit quicker steering ratio? What was your lock to lock steering rotation, newer models are pretty much 1 revolution of the wheel as a reference.

[skier_88]

Well that's the only thing I didn't try. I tried Goo Gone, Goof Off, Brake Kleen, and Gasket Remover. Nothing phased the silicone. It is good stuff. I worked at it for a long time with my fingernail and a few more razorblades. I was pretty happy with how clean I got it and siliconed in the new tips. I then headed into the boat and hit the first obstacle that i knew was coming. The tiller arm cleared the old exhaust by 1/8". The new stuff is 1/2" thicker so I knew I was going to have to take 1/2" off the tiller arm and machine a new hole for the control cable. I bought a newer Malibu rudder, housing, and tiller arm from Chris's wrecked Sunsetter so I figured I would install it while I was at it. I got everything on my old rudder off EXCEPT the base plate on the bottom of the boat. I banged, pryed, heated, yelled, bled, etc and it would not budge. I called rugger to see if there might be 5200 holding it on, but he said he hadn't taken it off so whatever Malibu used is good stuff. My Skier's base plate came off easy....not this one! rugger talked some sense into me....since the dang thing has been on the boat for 24 years and works fine I put it all back together with new silicone inside the boat. Heck, the wheel turns with one finger. Another good thing is the rudder shaft on the old rudder is 1.125" and the new one is 1". Also, the bore going though the bottom of the boat needs to be larger for the new port...no biggie, just another thing to change. I'll save the new parts in case I ever ding my rudder off something.

Anyways...here's the pics from the last couple nights....

Tiller arm too long...

Shorty.....

Much better!

New shaft...

Existing shaft...

Existing rudder left, new one right (I think the existing one looks like it has more steering authority with the longer blade)...

New port vs Existing port...the grease zerks are the whole reason I wanted to change the port...

Did you have to change the rudder dimensions any or just cut the tiller arm?

[martinarcher]

Did you have to change the rudder dimensions any or just cut the tiller arm?

Just shortened the tiller arm by 1/2".

[99response]

It is crazy how strong silicone is holding the tracking fins and stuff on - I had to use a chisel on the tracking fins on the Sunsetter. Also had to pound on the rudder housing to get it out.

[martinarcher]

It is crazy how strong silicone is holding the tracking fins and stuff on - I had to use a chisel on the tracking fins on the Sunsetter. Also had to pound on the rudder housing to get it out.

Yeah, that's why I gave in and put the old rudder back in. I really think I'll do damage to the hull/gel before it lets go. If I trash my rudder I'll have a spare.

[martinarcher]

FYI: As you can see the new style rudder mount actually mounts the tiller higher relative to the pipe and it just cleared for me. I think that is a very good solution, you will basically have just a bit quicker steering ratio? What was your lock to lock steering rotation, newer models are pretty much 1 revolution of the wheel as a reference.

Yeah - I did see that. I was wanting to get the old plate off and then do some measuring to see if it would spare me from cutting it. My other concern was the custom wedge backing plate might have given me clearance issues, but I think I have the height for the newer style port. Oh well, it's a spare. My lock to lock was about a full turn before if I remember right. I'd be surprised if it reduced it much. Looking forward to getting behind the wheel and seeing how it "feels". It should turn a bit "quicker", but I'll be surprised if it's much.

[martinarcher]

Got the main tubes and "muffler plates" in Friday night. It is turning out nice. Just need to add the 4" tubes to get me up to the manifolds and I'm done with the exhaust piping. I then have to sport of changing the hosing for the cooling water. Getting close!

[martinarcher]

Got the down tubes installed. I feel like I've been wrestling pythons all night trying to get them in there. I think it looks pretty sweet.

I ordered softwall tube and I think that was a mistake. The left (port) tube for some reason wants to flatten out more than I would like.

I might try and run it and see how it does under the exhaust heat, but It's already bugging me. I think the best way to do it is to replace them with hardwall tubes, unbolt the exhaust manifolds, get the tubes on, then bend the tube into place as you bolt the manifold in place.

Crappy part is I'm going to have to replace the exhaust gaskets again.

Edited May 3, 2011 by martinarcher

[Malibuzer]

Nice work Matt

[rugger]

Just stumbled across this and I'm grinning like hell right now.

I think I photoshopped a pic once with stainless tips right after that wedge went on. The real think looks better than I could have imagined! Nice job, Matt. You really thought it out well.

I too can't wait to hear what it sounds like with the new manifolds. Then again, I've always loved the old school rumble.

The Sunsetter is looking sweeeeet!

[Woodski]

Looks great, nice work. What is the source for the 4" fiberglass tubes and the rubber 45 deg angles. You could consider a band clamp on the rubber hose to try to keep it round rather than collapsing or could you slide a stainless ring down inside the tube? That seems to be a longish run for the hose.

[tvano]

nice job.

a really nice result.

[martinarcher]

Just stumbled across this and I'm grinning like hell right now.

I think I photoshopped a pic once with stainless tips right after that wedge went on. The real think looks better than I could have imagined! Nice job, Matt. You really thought it out well.

I too can't wait to hear what it sounds like with the new manifolds. Then again, I've always loved the old school rumble.

The Sunsetter is looking sweeeeet!

Haha - glad you like it. I'm dying to hear it! I think the tips look amazing and am looking forward to getting it outside and putting the wedge on and taking some good pics.

[martinarcher]

Looks great, nice work. What is the source for the 4" fiberglass tubes and the rubber 45 deg angles. You could consider a band clamp on the rubber hose to try to keep it round rather than collapsing or could you slide a stainless ring down inside the tube? That seems to be a longish run for the hose.

I like the band clamp idea. Might have to give it a try and see if it helps the tubing hold it's shape better. Can't hurt and sure beats ordering another big piece of tubing with the helicoil wrap.

Here's where I got the 45's.

Here's where I got the fiberglass tubing.

I got the softwall tubing here

[martinarcher]

nice job.

a really nice result.

Nice work Matt

Thanks guys!

Edited May 3, 2011 by martinarcher

[skier_88]

Looking great, Matt!

Below is a very bad picture of what I was talking about my cheap mod with the blower hose.

I remember seeing pics of the blower hose getting wrapped in the drive shaft, I didn't want that to happen again. I went to lowes and get a standard 3" vent tube normally for gas waterheaters. I ran it up the length of the exhaust and elbowed into the blower and got some nice vinyl hose and wrapped that around the fuel tank behind the seat to the vent. Turned out pretty well and easy to do. I'll just hear a ping rather than repacking the drive and trying to uncoil the wire.

[Woodski]

Actually, you will be too busy listening to the nice, throaty rumble of a small block V8!

FYI: the newer boats allow the vent hose to run down teh outside of the exhaust pipe adjacent to the shaft. etc..

Edited May 4, 2011 by Woodski

[skier_88]

Always a pretty sound

[martinarcher]

Always a pretty sound

No doubt!

Looks like a good mod. I still need to tidy up mine with zip ties to make sure it doesn't make it's way into the coupling.....again.