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Overheat on the trailer


itsonlywater

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So last night I was doing some general maintenance on the boat. Changed the oil, the impeller, and cleaned all the ground connections as the boat hesitates when starting. I hooked up the fake-a-lake and started her up. I was paying more attention to the engine starting up than anything else to make sure I fixed the hesitation issue. After starting and stopping about 5 times I noticed the temp gauge was off the chart (I had let the boat run maybe 30s initially and about 5-10s each start after as I was testing the starter). This is when I noticed water was not running out of the exhaust even though the fake-a-lake was on. I'm guessing I didn't install the impeller the right direction or didn't seat it properly. Either way it's probably shredded and I'll have to remove all of the pieces. What other damage could I have done? What else do I need to check?

I was in a rush trying to get everything done so I feel pretty stupid letting something like this happen.

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So last night I was doing some general maintenance on the boat. Changed the oil, the impeller, and cleaned all the ground connections as the boat hesitates when starting. I hooked up the fake-a-lake and started her up. I was paying more attention to the engine starting up than anything else to make sure I fixed the hesitation issue. After starting and stopping about 5 times I noticed the temp gauge was off the chart (I had let the boat run maybe 30s initially and about 5-10s each start after as I was testing the starter). This is when I noticed water was not running out of the exhaust even though the fake-a-lake was on. I'm guessing I didn't install the impeller the right direction or didn't seat it properly. Either way it's probably shredded and I'll have to remove all of the pieces. What other damage could I have done? What else do I need to check?

I was in a rush trying to get everything done so I feel pretty stupid letting something like this happen.

So you're talking a total of a minute and a half, max, of run time and it wasn't a contiguous minute and a half (on and off)? It doesn't seem like the temp would go "off the chart" that fast.

Did the motor have any water in it at all, or had it been winterized?

Edited by CedarLakeSkier
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I agree. If the temp gauge is truely pegged high, first check your temp sensor. You may have bumped something loose or your sender is bad. 30 seconds 5-10 times from ambient temperature may not even be enough time to get up to operating temp, much less over 240 degrees.

Edited by RTS
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Yeah, it was on and off - not continuous. I actually noticed the high temp before the 4th start and turned on and off very quickly the last two times. At the time I was thinking there was something wrong with the gauge until I noticed there was no water coming out of the exhaust during the 4th try. On the 4th try the temp jumped from 230 to 250ish and then on the 5th it jumped another 20. These were immediate jumps right at startup. I felt the engine after and it wasn't hot. I felt the exhaust tubes and they were definitely warm but you could place and keep your hand on them.

I didn't think the temp could get up that high that fast either. I'm not sure where the temp sensor is or how to check it but I'm sure there's a thread on here somewhere.

The boat came right off of the lake so water was still in the engine. We ride year round so the boat generally doesn't get winterized wtih the exception of removing the hoses and draining the engine block when a cold spell comes through Texas.

Edited by itsonlywater
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If the water has been drained then it takes about a min to get water to flow out the exhaust. As with everyone else I dont think you can overheat a moter that fast, even dry.

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I've had a problem with the impeller priming on fake lake after an impeller change (several times) but I think I'm with the other guys you probably didn't overhead and your impeller is probably fine (but worth checking).

If it's not priming, give the throttle a quick goose and that usually purges the air for me and water immediately starts flowing out the back.

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MalibuNation

I've had a problem with the impeller priming on fake lake after an impeller change (several times) but I think I'm with the other guys you probably didn't overhead and your impeller is probably fine (but worth checking).

If it's not priming, give the throttle a quick goose and that usually purges the air for me and water immediately starts flowing out the back.

:plus1:

I have Flush Pro and anytime I start my boat on the trailer the first thing I do is hop out of the boat to make sure I have a good flow coming out of the exhaust ... guessing you do the same from now on :-)

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After start feel the impeller housing, it should be cold as the water coming from the hose will cool it. If it is not cool you are not getting water. This is one of the first things I do when starting on fake a lake for the dewinterization as it takes so long to fill the motor and exhaust.

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I hook the garden hose up to the intake at the vdrive....usually I wait until water is flowing out of the exhaust before I start the boat.

Are you saying even after waiting a bit you don't get water flowing out the exhaust?

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I hook the garden hose up to the intake at the vdrive....usually I wait until water is flowing out of the exhaust before I start the boat.

Are you saying even after waiting a bit you don't get water flowing out the exhaust?

For me only when starting after the motor has been drained, If there is water already in the motor it will flow upon starting.

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Make your you fake a lake is really really tight against the hull, a bad seal means the boat will not pull water.

Also bump the revs up to around 1500 for a second or two after starting to prime the pump.

-Chris

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Make your you fake a lake is really really tight against the hull, a bad seal means the boat will not pull water.

Also bump the revs up to around 1500 for a second or two after starting to prime the pump.

-Chris

But you can have the fake lake so tight the water flow is restricted.

What does bumping it in reverse do?

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martinarcher

But you can have the fake lake so tight the water flow is restricted.

What does bumping it in reverse do?

I means get the "plunger" tight on the bottom of the hull so there is a bit of garden hose pressure on the intake to the raw water pump. It helps to get it primed.

He said "revs" not "reverse". Whistling.gif It wouldn't matter if it's forward or reverse since you need to have to prop disengaged at the throttle control or you'll burn up you prop bushing. The 1500-2k rev just accelerates the impeller and helps create a bit more suction to get the pump primed. After it's primed, idle is fine to keep the water flowing. Thumbup.gif

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I means get the "plunger" tight on the bottom of the hull so there is a bit of garden hose pressure on the intake to the raw water pump. It helps to get it primed.

He said "revs" not "reverse". Whistling.gif It wouldn't matter if it's forward or reverse since you need to have to prop disengaged at the throttle control or you'll burn up you prop bushing. The 1500-2k rev just accelerates the impeller and helps create a bit more suction to get the pump primed. After it's primed, idle is fine to keep the water flowing. Thumbup.gif

Revs / Reverse...OK, I feel stupid.

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I checked the impelller and it was fine. I took it out re-lubricated it and stuck it back in. Everything worked fine after that. I think the temp gage went a little haywire because it was still pegged (stuck) past 250 with a cold engine and before starting but with the accessory on. After a minute or so, the temp gage started working and reading normal temperatures. I probably just needed to rev the motor, but the temp gage freaked me out. Anyway, got the boat out on the lake and everything's fine. Thanks for the help guys!

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Sorry to hijack the thread but I was wondering what I needed to look for to see if I needed to replace my impeller ? I bought my boat used approx 3 months ago and the owner said he changed the impeller at the end of the season last year . But I haven't checked I've noticed the engine stays alot cooler when hooked up to the fake a lake vs the actual lake ?

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The thread is all yours!

Find the impeller housing (see link) at the very front of the motor and remove the cover plate. When removing/replacing the cover plate be careful not to strip the screws because they are made of brass. Inspect the rubber fins on the impeller to see if there are any missing or cracking. It's a big enough pain to get out of the housing, so I usually replace it regardless of what it looks like. I use a paint can key opener with a string attached to remove the impeller as recommended by someone on this board. It works great!

My link

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