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Winter ballast project.


Chia

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the winter project includes re-doing the ballast system. the plan is as follows.

I will use 5, 12 volt switch operated valves-2 for the rear lockers, 1 for a flexible fill line to fill interior bags and 2 for front ballast. I will leave the MLS bag factory.

I think I can use 1, 3800gph rule centrifugal pump, http://www.reddenmarine.com/site/new-detail.cfm?id=RUL17A described as high volume, low pressure, if I put all the valves on a manifold. I will also use a smaller pump (rule 750gph that I already have) as a primer and for fine tuning the fill to get the wake right.

My concern is that the 3800gph rule has a 17amp draw. Is that a lot? I do have 2 batteries on board.

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the winter project includes re-doing the ballast system. the plan is as follows.

I will use 5, 12 volt switch operated valves-2 for the rear lockers, 1 for a flexible fill line to fill interior bags and 2 for front ballast. I will leave the MLS bag factory.

I think I can use 1, 3800gph rule centrifugal pump, http://www.reddenmarine.com/site/new-detail.cfm?id=RUL17A described as high volume, low pressure, if I put all the valves on a manifold. I will also use a smaller pump (rule 750gph that I already have)  as a primer and for fine tuning the fill to get the wake right.

My concern is that the 3800gph rule has a 17amp draw. Is that a lot? I do have 2 batteries on board.

Is that continuous or does it spike to that on startup & then drop once it's running?

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If it states 17amps on the box. That would be max at start up and thats not to bad. You have two batts and you shouldn't have a problem filling the tanks with the engine off.

So are you going to have the 750 in line to the 3800 pump or have the 750 on the manifold?

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If it's a spike on startup, then yeah, that's not too bad. Still, you'll want to check the rating on the switch that you use. If it's a stock switch that comes in the dash, be wary because I don't think that they're rated for much more than that (if they're rated that high at all).

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That pump looks like an animal!  Where did you find the switch operated valves?  Do you have a link to those?

Yes, the switch operated valves are $99. each and are available from a place in San Jose http://1valves.com/112elgatval.html. This is the only place I have found these Valterra valves. I know they work cause a buddy is using them for his ballast system.

Is that pump reversible???  If not, what are you using to drain the sacs...

I don't think the pump is reversible, but I do not know that for sure. I haven't quite decided what to do for draining the sacs. If I put another pump on the manifold, I will not be able to drain and fill at the same time. I may just use a smaller pump, say 1100gpm, for each sac and drain that way.

I will be bidding on 1 of the 8 he has for sure. I will not set a maximum bid. If anyone else is bidding on these pumps, lets not bid them up to retail.

If it states 17amps on the box. That would be max at start up and thats not to bad. You have two batts and you shouldn't have a problem filling the tanks with the engine off.

So are you going to have the 750 in line to the 3800 pump or have the 750 on the manifold?

I emailed redden marine and they sent back that the 17A is just a part number and the pump draws 15.5 amps continuous.

I plan to have the 750 inline with the 3800 then I won't have to worry about the prime on the 3800, just turn on the 750 first.

Wakegirl, I hadn't thought of the draw thru the switch, thanks for the tip.

So is 15.5 amps continuous too much draw for the batteries or is it OK?

Edited by Cervelo
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I don't know what the specific rating is for the switches, but I would bet that it's too much. You can always run a relay to take the load off of the switch, not a big deal but important nonetheless.

EDIT: One more thing, I would highly doubt that it's reversible. Aerator pumps like this are almost always 1-way, the impeller-style pumps like the Jabsco Ballast Puppy are the ones that are typically reversible. YMMV of course. :)

Edited by WakeGirl
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To drain, you could set up the manifold with those electric switches to have the pump pull from the tanks rather than the lake. It's a little more complicated plumbing, but just one (non-reversable) pump.

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To drain, you could set up the manifold with those electric switches to have the pump pull from the tanks rather than the lake.  It's a little more complicated plumbing, but just one (non-reversable) pump.

Man, I am trying to envision how I could do that, and can't. If it involves extra valves, it is just as cheap to get the 1100gph pumps for draining the water. At some point I will need to drain (overboard) all the water in the sacs.

If you're worried about frying the switches b/c of the current draw, just use a couple of relays.

I am not so much worried about the switches as the constant current draw of 15.5 amps from my battery while filling.

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If you keep your engine running then it shouldn't be a problem. I used a Simer pump that pulled a little less than that continuous off of the stock battery setup in one of our boats & it was fine. It definitely did better with the engine running - we never sucked the battery dry or anything like that, the pump just liked having more amperage from the running engine. Of course I'm hardly an expert on this so YMMV.

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I plan to have the 750 inline with the 3800 then I won't have to worry about the prime on the 3800, just turn on the 750 first.

I don't think thats a good idea unless I'm not seeing the big picture. What I see is that both pumps will be on one pushing a max of 750 and the other trying to suck 3800. I think there will be to much water resistance with the 750 inline.

Yes run the relay. Its the safe way to go. I don't see a problem with running the pumps with the eng off. I mean we all fill are factory tanks with the eng off and run the radio all at the same time. But yes running the eng is the safe way to go. but then you have a back up batt so why not try it once and if you need to switch battery then your go to go.

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I plan to have the 750 inline with the 3800 then I won't have to worry about the prime on the 3800, just turn on the 750 first.

I don't think thats a good idea unless I'm not seeing the big picture. What I see is that both pumps will be on one pushing a max of 750 and the other trying to suck 3800. I think there will be to much water resistance with the 750 inline.

Yes run the relay. Its the safe way to go. I don't see a problem with running the pumps with the eng off. I mean we all fill are factory tanks with the eng off and run the radio all at the same time. But yes running the eng is the safe way to go. but then you have a back up batt so why not try it once and if you need to switch battery then your go to go.

good point, thanks. You are right, the 750 only has 3/4" intake and outflow wheras the 3800 has 1.5" not to mention the impellers on the 750 creating resistance. It means I may have to drive slowly to get a prime to the 3800 (thru scupper), although it should fit near the front of the motor, port side (below water line).

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the tip. I managed to snipe 2 pumps for less than the cost of one.

However I cannot find the Valterra electric valves anywhere. Contacted the manufacturer and was told they have not been in production for a couple of years.

Has anyone used electric irrigation valves for their ballast system and/or does anyone know about this type of valve and whether they would work or not?

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I'm understanding this correct, the web site advertising the valves cannot supply the valve.... why are they still on the site??

The 3800 pump would provide ~1 gal/sec. I can just see using that with some creative plumbing in a water fight on the lake....wow, talk about a soaker hose!

I wonder how far you could make it shoot?

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I'm understanding this correct, the web site advertising the valves cannot supply the valve.... why are they still on the site??

The 3800 pump would provide ~1 gal/sec. I can just see using that with some creative plumbing in a water fight on the lake....wow, talk about a soaker hose!

I wonder how far you could make it shoot?

Even the manufacturer's site still shows the electric valves, but they are no longer in production. Phoned them last week after I got notice from 1Valves that my order did not go thru because the valves were no longer available.

The pumps are described as low pressure, high volume so I will see about incorporating a soaker hose into the mix. If it is swedged down to 5/8 inch water hose it should shoot pretty good.

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Thanks for the tip. I managed to snipe 2 pumps for less than the cost of one.

However I cannot find the Valterra electric valves anywhere. Contacted the manufacturer and was told they have not been in production for a couple of years.

Has anyone used electric irrigation valves for their ballast system and/or does anyone know about this type of valve and whether they would work or not?

I've tried it in the past & while I could get it to work, I found them to be extremely restrictive - not worth putting in IMO. Take a look at this Wakeworld thread:

http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/65921/49129.html

There's a guy in there by the name of Craig that used some valves from Flow-rite that are supposed to work pretty well. They're not automatic - from what I understand they work off of a cable & lever system, but have very little (if any) restriction. Anyway, that thread may give you some ideas.

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