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Barbed elbow to fit fly high sacks?


shawndoggy

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I had an issue last year with the quick connects on the bottom of my 750s leaking when the bags were full. I'd like to take the weight of the bag off of the quick connect by adding a short length of hose between the drain hole and the quick connect, with the pump and corresponding quick connect hooked up after the hose.

Anyhow, the only barbed fittings that fly high sells are straight. I'd like one that's at a 90* angle so that the hose is already pointed out from under the bag. Can someone recommend me a fitting that works with the fly high bags?

I've come across this 3/4" one (but it says npt threads):

MD-042.jpg

And this one (1" to 3/4" barb, NPT threads):

16849_large.jpg

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I'm pretty sure that the threads are not npt on flyhigh as they use an o ring don't they? Don't have the energy to look.

yes, you are right. NPS (?) non-tapered threads. Spoke with Jason at wakemakers and he talked me out of running the extension hose. I think I'm just going to screw the pump right into the bag and then put the quick connects on the other side of the pump (which means I need to figure out a molex power connection of some sort too).

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It won't be fun when you crush the pump, screwing it to the back of the bag is asking for failure. I've seen it happen.

Have to agree with that.

Shawn, can you mount the pump in a remote location and just run a hose to the bag?

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Yes, remote location is possible but wakemakers advised against because they say it creates priming issues. Hmmmmmmmm......

That's how mine is setup and I have no "priming issues". I can see having "priming issues" if it was ontop of the bag, but on the bottom comon please.....

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If that's from Flow rite it will work. Not sure about 1" x 3/4"

Flow Rite

yes, you are right. NPS (?) non-tapered threads. Spoke with Jason at wakemakers and he talked me out of running the extension hose. I think I'm just going to screw the pump right into the bag and then put the quick connects on the other side of the pump (which means I need to figure out a molex power connection of some sort too).

hmm...I guess I (and many others) better replace my flow-rite fittings cause they're not the right threads...

It won't be fun when you crush the pump, screwing it to the back of the bag is asking for failure. I've seen it happen.

Really? The bulged part of a bag (~50 lbs or so) can crush a pump?

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hmm...I guess I (and many others) better replace my flow-rite fittings cause they're not the right threads...

Really? The bulged part of a bag (~50 lbs or so) can crush a pump?

It's 50 lbs huh? Where did you come up with that one? That "bulged part of the bag" has no problem flexing the divider wall so much it will blow it out into the engine compartment. I'm not talking about crushing it like it got ran over by a car, I'm talking about crushing it to the point the housing is deformed and starts to leak. Yes I've seen that happen.

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That's how mine is setup and I have no "priming issues". I can see having "priming issues" if it was ontop of the bag, but on the bottom comon please.....

LOL, don't shoot the messenger big guy!

Jason said that that's how moombas and supras are set up with the pumps remote from the bags and that they have problems. All-in-all he was very helpful and he definitely knows his stuff.

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LOL, don't shoot the messenger big guy!

Jason said that that's how moombas and supras are set up with the pumps remote from the bags and that they have problems. All-in-all he was very helpful and he definitely knows his stuff.

I think you took that the wrong way, I should have inserted my emoticon after I said priming issues :rofl: .

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It's 50 lbs huh? Where did you come up with that one? That "bulged part of the bag" has no problem flexing the divider wall so much it will blow it out into the engine compartment. I'm not talking about crushing it like it got ran over by a car, I'm talking about crushing it to the point the housing is deformed and starts to leak. Yes I've seen that happen.

Dude, calm down before I have to cyber slap you. You're talking about a lateral force, the length of most of the bag and most of the height of the bag being aplied to a 3/8" piece of plastic in a 1/2" deep channel, and that force is certainly increased as the boat shifts. The maximum amount of weight that can be applied to the pump (assuming the entire pump was under the bag) would be the surface area of the side of the pump x 20" then convert gallons and then to lbs. I doubt it's even 50lbs. Wtih that said, for many other reasons I don't think I'd want my pump under the bag either but I don't think a 750 or even an 1100 would turn it into a pancake. Have you seen this happen? :cheers:

Edited by Ndawg12
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Dude, calm down before I have to cyber slap you. You're talking about a lateral force, the length of most of the bag and most of the height of the bag being aplied to a 3/8" piece of plastic in a 1/2" deep channel, and that force is certainly increased as the boat shifts. The maximum amount of weight that can be applied to the pump (assuming the entire pump was under the bag) would be the surface area of the side of the pump x 20" then convert gallons and then to lbs. I doubt it's even 50lbs. Wtih that said, for many other reasons I don't think I'd want my pump under the bag either but I don't think a 750 or even an 1100 would turn it into a pancake. Have you seen this happen? :cheers:

:lol: what happens is the weight of the bag deforms the casing of the pump and causes it to leak. I heard the impeller griding against the housing as well under the weight of the bag. The bag pushes the pump up against the transom. To each his own, I know what works for me :biggrin: .

Edit: If this wasn't an issue I'd prefer to have it attached directly to the bag for simplicity reasons.

Edited by 06vlx
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hmm...I guess I (and many others) better replace my flow-rite fittings cause they're not the right threads...

Probably why your fittings "wobble" in the bags?

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Probably why your fittings "wobble" in the bags?

Ouch! You did your homework :biggrin: But that was before I ever tested them, with a little (alot) of thread tape they've never leaked. Just trying to help you save a little coin.

Edited by Ndawg12
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Ouch! You did your homework :biggrin: But that was before I ever tested them, with a little (alot) of thread tape they've never leaked. Just trying to help you save some coin.

LOL, no I bookmarked that thread because it had the link to the flow rite stuff. So Jason @ wakemakers also says not to use teflon tape. He said to use multipurpose (clear) pvc glue (not the blue kind like you use on your sprinklers... oh wait I bet you don't have sprinklers... but I digress) to glue the fittings in the bag. Apparently the multipurpose glue is breakable (not permanent) but does a much better job of sealing than the teflon tape.

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LOL, no I bookmarked that thread because it had the link to the flow rite stuff. So Jason @ wakemakers also says not to use teflon tape. He said to use multipurpose (clear) pvc glue (not the blue kind like you use on your sprinklers... oh wait I bet you don't have sprinklers... but I digress) to glue the fittings in the bag. Apparently the multipurpose glue is breakable (not permanent) but does a much better job of sealing than the teflon tape.

If I ever take them apart I would just put an o-ring in there, it would give me more space to wrench on (those who use the flow-rite should know what I mean). Did he say why not to use teflon tape?

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If I ever take them apart I would just put an o-ring in there, it would give me more space to wrench on (those who use the flow-rite should know what I mean). Did he say why not to use teflon tape?

he mentioned that because the bags and fittings use straight threads instead of tapered threads that the tape wouldn't work as well to form a seal because the threads don't get "tight" as the fittings mate. He actually suggested that teflon tape would/could introduce leaks instead of stopping them.

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I have had the drain pumps screwed directly in to the sacs since 2003.

We did have an issue at the beginning when we were using those blue waterbed spouts - they split and broke.

Then we changed to Fly High with threaded ports and screwed them directly in.

To remove the sac from the trunk we have power disconnects and loosen the hose clamp pull the hose off the pump exit.

Simple and fault free so far but its only been 8 seasons and 600 hrs

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I have had the drain pumps screwed directly in to the sacs since 2003.

We did have an issue at the beginning when we were using those blue waterbed spouts - they split and broke.

Then we changed to Fly High with threaded ports and screwed them directly in.

To remove the sac from the trunk we have power disconnects and loosen the hose clamp pull the hose off the pump exit.

Simple and fault free so far but its only been 8 seasons and 600 hrs

brad, why don't you get back to us when you have some relevant data to contribute! Innocent.gif

What sized bags, btw?

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I have had the drain pumps screwed directly in to the sacs since 2003.

We did have an issue at the beginning when we were using those blue waterbed spouts - they split and broke.

Then we changed to Fly High with threaded ports and screwed them directly in.

To remove the sac from the trunk we have power disconnects and loosen the hose clamp pull the hose off the pump exit.

Simple and fault free so far but its only been 8 seasons and 600 hrs

Do you have them screwed into the rear of the sac on the bottom fitting near the transom?

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