Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

Remove Rear Center Floor Panel on Sunsetter


SunHasSetted02

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know how to remove the rear center floor panel on a 2002 Sunsetter XTI 23' to access the drive shaft and rudder area? I need access to grease the rudder packing box. There are only 2 visible screws on the aft end of the panel. Do you need to also remove the wrap-around seat support wall forward of the panel? It seems like it should be easier to remove this floor panel!

Link to comment

I think the lay out of my boat is the same as your boat. I removed the floor panel to aid in changing out my steering cable this winter. You are right in your statement about having to remove the wrap around seat support. First remove the hardware securing the speaker wires and cigarette lighter. There are two machine screws with 9/16" but that secure the seat support to the motorbox frame that need to be removed. There are also a handful of screws holding the wrap around support to the floor. Lastly, there are 2-3 screws that go through the support into a support wall on the starboard side of the transmission. These were hard to find for me since the screw heads were buried in the carpet.

This is where it will get you:

IMG_4169.jpg

NOW, with that having been said, Unless you have really long arms, I think you will be better off taking accessing the rudder via the ski locker along the transom of the boat. You will have to take out the two angled pieces that are screwed to the floor of the locker, then the floor itself. If you have ballast tanks, take them out too. You will find an access panel right above the rudder/tiller arm. Remove that, and there you have easy access!

This is what you should see by going this route:

IMG_4174.jpg

Link to comment

I think the lay out of my boat is the same as your boat. I removed the floor panel to aid in changing out my steering cable this winter. You are right in your statement about having to remove the wrap around seat support. First remove the hardware securing the speaker wires and cigarette lighter. There are two machine screws with 9/16" but that secure the seat support to the motorbox frame that need to be removed. There are also a handful of screws holding the wrap around support to the floor. Lastly, there are 2-3 screws that go through the support into a support wall on the starboard side of the transmission. These were hard to find for me since the screw heads were buried in the carpet.

This is where it will get you:

IMG_4169.jpg

NOW, with that having been said, Unless you have really long arms, I think you will be better off taking accessing the rudder via the ski locker along the transom of the boat. You will have to take out the two angled pieces that are screwed to the floor of the locker, then the floor itself. If you have ballast tanks, take them out too. You will find an access panel right above the rudder/tiller arm. Remove that, and there you have easy access!

This is what you should see by going this route:

IMG_4174.jpg

Link to comment

Thanks RedRum! That's very good information and photos. I really appreciate your quick response. Now, I will attack this job this weekend.

Link to comment

Hey RedRum,

Thanks for the tips but I need more help. I got the center floor panel removed, thanks to your help. The top screw on the forward wall was hard to find But I eventually did. I greased my rudder packing box and spray oil on the general exterior. This was little help so I think I need to replace my steering cable. My steering wheel is hard to turn after sitting last year. Can you give me some tips on that job? I scoped it and think I need to remove 4 small bolts from the top of the steering rack cover. Is that correct? The cable just drops in the rack at that point. Right? I am guessing that u fish the new cable by attaching it to the old cable. Just like running electrical wire. Which is the best direction to run the new cable? Forward to aft or vice versa? Please tell me that the cable is not attached to anything in the bilge! Then just loosen the one large nut on the rudder pivot arm, right? Is there anymore work than this? Is a cable very expensive and where do u suggest to buy one? My closest Malibu dealer is 90 minutes away so I guess I need an online order to my house. Thanks for your time Seth. You have been a great help!

Mike

Link to comment

Mike, you are on the right track. More than likely, a new steering cable will cure your issue. Start by removing the four bolts that hold the rack to the helm. Then disconnect the cable at the rudder. (Pay close attention of the order in which the washers nut and special bolt attach to the tiller arm. I managed to forget the order and had to seek help.

Get a piece of rope and tie it to the stern end of the steering cable. Then pull the old cable out from the helm. This helps to pull the new cable via the exact same route as the old one. Untie the rope and leave it there. When you are ready to install the new cable tie the end of the rope to the part of the cable that attaches to the rudder. It helps to have a helper to re-install, but you can do it by yourself if you have to. From the helm, feed the new cable into the floor while someone pulls on the rope from the stern. It should go pretty smoothly. The only place I experienced a bit of a hang up was where the cable comes out of the hull on the starboard side of the engine, in the motor box area. Keep pulling until you have it pulled all the way. Re-attach the cable to the tiller arm with the hardware. Make sure you rudder is pointed perfectly straight, and that your steering wheel is lined up level. Re-install the rack with the four bolts, and you are set.

There should be a part number stamped on the sheathing of the old cable 1-2 feet from then rack end of the cable. The last two digits of the part # is the cable length. Mine was 20', so yours should be the same.

I bought my cable from the guys at Waterski America in Dallas, TX. http://www.waterskiamerica.com/default.asp

I have a connection there, and they were able to give a price that no one else could come close to.

Bakes also has the cables. http://www.bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=1466

Shop around and find the best price.

The cables themselves aren't exactly cheap, but if you do it yourself, you will save yourself A LOT of money, and have the satisfaction of working on your own boat. I know a guy who paid a shop to do his steering cable, and he was charged an astronomical rate for it!

I took my sweet time when I did mine, since it was my first time. Now that I have done it once, I am sure I can do the whole project including removing and re-installing the floor and ski locker and cable within a couple of hours.

Link to comment

Once again, you have been a great source of information. I checked around and Bakes Online was about the going price. So I ordered one from them. I have a clear scope of the work, thanks to you. I think I will take some pics of the rudder assembly before I start to take apart. I will try to remember the special bolt, nut and washer configuration as you said. Weather permitting & a cable, I might get this done next weekend. Thanks for all your help. I'm sure this replacement will be a success.

Link to comment

It should all go pretty smoothly, it just takes time. If you forget to snap a picture, you can always take a look at the 4th picture in post #5 of this thread

and flip the bolt over. In that picture, I have it up-side down. I forgot to take a picture of it oriented the correct way.

Best of luck!

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...