Mailbu Flap Photos

[Bill_AirJunky]

I agree, nice job Matt!

I got to get mine goin too. Bringin the bu home tomorrow to change the oil.

BTW, got out for a ride this evening. 48 degree water & 51 degree air. We decided we're all fat n rusty.

Edited April 9, 2011 by Bill_AirJunky

[martinarcher]

"SYNTHETIC" grease to keep the "STAINLESS" nuts from galling.

You can't just bolt them up ?

You can't just use ordinary grease ?

You can't use ordinary nuts like the general populace ?

What are you trying to do ? Show up the west coast ace mechanics Pistol Pete and Ruffdog ?

Nice work. I'm sure Pete and Ruff are gonna run out now and by a big box of stainless nuts and a tube of the Synthetic grease.

All the hardware on that thing is stainless. I'm not a fan of rusty hardware.

The only grease I buy is synthetic so I used what I had. No sense in buying standard grease when synthetic is available. That's like buying a Bayliner when you could have bought a Bu.

[Pistol Pete]

Matt is right to use grease when going stainless to stainless.

I already have loads of stainless hardware in US and metric selections from my days in the semi-conductor industry.

The grease I use is Dupont Krytox. If anybody can tell me where to get it for less than ~$20-30 for a half an once, I'm all ears. I'm running low on this stuff.

[Bill_AirJunky]

SkySkis are full of stainless screws & nuts. We have problems with them galling in assembly all the time..... threading into stainless or even into aluminum. We just use Anti-seize. I think there are a variety of brands who make it. But Permatex is the one I seem to find the most.

[hw3]

Here are some photos of the holders with flaps on them. The price of 175 doesn't include the flaps. I wanted to get some up here showing what they look like though.

[D-GOOSE]

Finally had some time to work out that last little bit of details on my set up for the flaps.

1 I wanted a set up that could be removed and installed easily.

2 Had to take up very little room when removed

3 Needed it to have a hole for a lock. Just for Pete!!

4 Didn't want them to be full size because they look way to huge behind the truck.

5 I have them about 5 inches off the ground with out the trailer, so they don't drag on the road.

I used flap hangers that big rigs use.

Mounted the bracket up under the bumper.

Had to remove the black plastic part on the bumper to install the nuts on the back side.

trimmed the brackets, drilled new holes for the lock and bent them just a little bit to fit just right.

How do you think they look?

[D-GOOSE]

Sorry this is the bracket.

[rammer998]

Looks great Goose Now why didn't I think of that, I drive a big rig!!

[martinarcher]

Looks fantastic Greg! Looks like it turned out great and they come off really easy. I like how the mounts are tucked up under the truck and all you see is the hanger. Nice job!!

[Pistol Pete]

Greg,

Got a link for those mounts?

If not, I'm gonna be drilling angle iron this weekend.

[NorCaliBu]

Greg,

Got a link for those mounts?

If not, I'm gonna be drilling angle iron this weekend.

Greg added the link in his post.

I used flap hangers that big rigs use.

Mounted the bracket up under the bumper.

[woody]

Nice set up Greg.

[Malibuzer]

Nice set up Greg.

[yabetcha]

Great job Greg! I have White Knight backup lights that are mounted over the trailer tow mount and I hadn't figured how I was going to mount the flaps...but you just solved that problem for me. Thanks!

[D-GOOSE]

Greg,

Got a link for those mounts?

If not, I'm gonna be drilling angle iron this weekend.

Mike found the link in my post and the mounts come in the kit with the brackets. Just pick up the light duty one's, the heavy duty is way over kill. You can pick them up at napa or any other truck supply shop.

Nice set up Greg.

Yep that's what I was talking about doing.

Glad this is solving peoples problems with mounting the flaps.

I do like how clean of a look it has with out the piping.

[jeremyk]

Did you have to drill into the chassis to mount the brackets? What size hole?

[D-GOOSE]

If you look at the middle picture, you can see that I had bolted them to the underside of the bumper. The kit come's with all the mounting bolts. I used 5/16 not the 3/8 that came in the kit.

The nice thing was that the bumper had holes under the plastic step, so I could put the nuts on the back side.

[pielet97]

If you look at the middle picture, you can see that I had bolted them to the underside of the bumper. The kit come's with all the mounting bolts. I used 5/16 not the 3/8 that came in the kit.

The nice thing was that the bumper had holes under the plastic step, so I could put the nuts on the back side.

I just went out and bought these, but I have a problem. The clips point the same direction as the short arm, not 90 degrees to the arm. Did you have to remove the welded clip?

[Hammertime]

Finally had some time to work out that last little bit of details on my set up for the flaps.

1 I wanted a set up that could be removed and installed easily.

2 Had to take up very little room when removed

3 Needed it to have a hole for a lock. Just for Pete!!

4 Didn't want them to be full size because they look way to huge behind the truck.

5 I have them about 5 inches off the ground with out the trailer, so they don't drag on the road.

I used flap hangers that big rigs use.

Mounted the bracket up under the bumper.

Had to remove the black plastic part on the bumper to install the nuts on the back side.

trimmed the brackets, drilled new holes for the lock and bent them just a little bit to fit just right.

How do you think they look?

Those look awesome. Probably a stupid question, but where did you get the flaps?

Edited May 16, 2011 by Hammertime

[Pistol Pete]

Here.

[D-GOOSE]

I just went out and bought these, but I have a problem. The clips point the same direction as the short arm, not 90 degrees to the arm. Did you have to remove the welded clip?

You will notice two things that will have to be modified.

1. The end hanger clip is welded on right in the center and will need to be drilled out. 3/8-1/2 bit and only have to drill down 1/8"

2. The end of the bracket that fits into the mount will only go in one way. You will need to grind down one side, so the bracket will slide into the mount.

3. optional. Cut off the hole at the end of the bracket and drill a new one 90deg. This way you can put a lock on. Once you have the bracket on and install the mount you will see what I'm talking about.

[G-Mack]

Finally got my mudflaps mounted.

On the escalade I trimmed them to 18" and have a piece of the "brush" stuff from a previous towing set up in the centre. Mounts to the draw bar and has a sheet metal deflector in front of the right flap as the exhaust exits directly rearward. I have melted flaps of the same material previously.

On the one ton; the bracket is welded directly to the draw bar. I have set of plain mudflaps of the same material on their way to fill in the centre. I installed a Banks DPF back exhaust to get rid of the megaphone that would be dumping directly onto the mudflap.

I will be using the flap set-up on the one-ton when towing the fifth wheel to save it from road rash also.

Again like all have shared great job Martinarcher.

Edited May 30, 2011 by G-Mack

[Pistol Pete]

Ok guys,

I'm getting ready to mount my flaps for the NorCal Wow.

2 questions....

1) How or, what did you use to cut the flaps to make a nice, clean, not melted, cut?

2) Am I the only one that has had the white lettering flake off after just being stored in my garage?

[martinarcher]

Finally got my mudflaps mounted.

On the escalade I trimmed them to 18" and have a piece of the "brush" stuff from a previous towing set up in the centre. Mounts to the draw bar and has a sheet metal deflector in front of the right flap as the exhaust exits directly rearward. I have melted flaps of the same material previously.

On the one ton; the bracket is welded directly to the draw bar. I have set of plain mudflaps of the same material on their way to fill in the centre. I installed a Banks DPF back exhaust to get rid of the megaphone that would be dumping directly onto the mudflap.

I will be using the flap set-up on the one-ton when towing the fifth wheel to save it from road rash also.

Again like all have shared great job Martinarcher.

Can't believe I missed you post! Looks great man!

[martinarcher]

Ok guys,

I'm getting ready to mount my flaps for the NorCal Wow.

2 questions....

1) How or, what did you use to cut the flaps to make a nice, clean, not melted, cut?

2) Am I the only one that has had the white lettering flake off after just being stored in my garage?

Pete,

I used an air cut off wheel to cut mine and it turned out really nice.

You are the third person that has mentioned the lettering flaking. I haven't had any trouble with mine at all. The other two members contacted the vendor and they took care of it.