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Distributor Cap


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I was talking to a friend of mine about our distributor caps corroding internally so quicklly. He suggested dielectric grease on the INTERNAL contacs. I've never done it. Is anyone else doing this?

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Don’t, cap and rotor are cheap in my opinion this will add to the build up of gunk (although I have never done it). Think about what’s happening every time the rotor comes across the contact on the cap there is a very hot electrical charge/Spark you are just adding another substance to oxidize and gunk up the contacts.

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jkendallmsce

Don’t, cap and rotor are cheap in my opinion this will add to the build up of gunk (although I have never done it). Think about what’s happening every time the rotor comes across the contact on the cap there is a very hot electrical charge/Spark you are just adding another substance to oxidize and gunk up the contacts.

Also, take a look at products like Pertronix. You replace the points. The boat will start and run better. And in 3 years, you have paid for the unit.

The best aftermarket product you can put on older boats

http://www.pertronix.com/

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Don’t, cap and rotor are cheap in my opinion this will add to the build up of gunk (although I have never done it). Think about what’s happening every time the rotor comes across the contact on the cap there is a very hot electrical charge/Spark you are just adding another substance to oxidize and gunk up the contacts.

:plus1:

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Make sure you replace with a marine grade cap and rotor, different contact material which lasts longer.

-Chris

I used marine grade....Put a new cap on last June....Looked inside last month and already some corrosion. Still starts and runs great.

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On all of my Jeeps I used dielectric grease on all my plug wire connections and a bead of silicone around the base of the distributor cap. These rigs saw very harsh environments and I never had any issues. I see no reason this wouldn't work in the marine world as well. Just a thought.

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I vote don't put any dielectric grease on the inside terminals for all the reasons already mentioned.

Let's put it this way, I don't.

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martinarcher

Yeah, no grease in the cap. Di-electric grease is actually not conductive. It is meant to use on spark plug boots and other similar applications where you want an electric safe grease that will seal a good connection and keep water and other gunk out of the connector as well as reduce corrosion.

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Matt is right.

As an Electrical Insulator

Dielectric grease is a nonconductive grease. Because it is nonconductive it does not enhance the flow of electrical current. Electrical conductors should not be coated with dielectric grease prior to being mated. However, dielectric grease is often applied to electrical connectors, particularly ones which contain rubber gaskets, as a way to provide a nonconductive lubricant and sealer for the rubber portions of the connector. The widest use of dielectric grease is in high-voltage connections associated with spark plugs. The grease is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. This helps the rubber boot slide onto the ceramic insulator of the plug. The grease also acts to seal the rubber boot, while at the same time preventing the rubber from becoming stuck to the ceramic. Generally spark plugs are in located in areas of high temperature, and the grease is formulated to withstand the temperature range expected.

Another common use of dielectric grease is on the rubber mating surfaces or gaskets of multi-pin electrical connectors used in automotive and marine engines. The grease again acts as a lubricant and a sealant on the nonconductive mating surfaces of the connector. It is not recommended to be applied to the actual electrical conductive contacts of the connector because it could interfere with the electrical signals passing through the connector.

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